Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

DIY 2014 RAV4 Front Diff oil change (TC)

31K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  oilman 
#1 ·
Hello, I have just completed changing TC fluid for 2014 RAV4 and want to share Front diff fluid change procedure with RAV4 owners.

1. Mileage: 8,100 miles
2. Tools: Torque wrench (Harbor freight $9 w/25% coupon), 10mm hex socket, regular wrench, 75W-90 Valvoline gear oil 4.8qt about $ 3.25 ($80/12qt w/20% coupon at Advance auto parts), hand pump penzoil oil pump $5.xx amazon
3. Time taken: 45 minutes
4. Torque: Filler plug: 28ft-lbs, Drain plug: 29ft-lbs
5. Oil status: not that bad, but still dirty for only 8,100 miles car

Front diff oil change is as easy as rear diff oil change.
actually, easier than rear diff oil change since drain and filler holes are located at almost same side. Torque is very weak, so do not overtight, only up to yellow arrow (photo, original blue dot shows it too on plugs)

All photos has title and self-explanatory, Enjoy!
 

Attachments

See less See more
10
#2 ·
Remaining photos.

Overall, it is worth changing early.

You don't need whole lot of space to work on this if you choose DIY.

After first diff oil change, about 30k ~ 50k interval shouldn't be bad.
Since I drive in city, it is considered as severe driving.
Front diff oil change is very easy and straightforward, open drain plug/drain/Close and open refill plug/refill/Close. That's it.
Total cost about $ 3.25 (75w-90 diff oil 4.8qt) except tools and time (45min).

* gasket is almost perfect, you can use twice at least (front and back)
inner diameter 1.8cm, outer diameter 2.4cm if you buy aftermarket
gasket (Cheapest one is at Harbor freight - whole case at $4.xx)
 

Attachments

#13 ·
...

* gasket is almost perfect, you can use twice at least (front and back)
inner diameter 1.8cm, outer diameter 2.4cm if you buy aftermarket
gasket (Cheapest one is at Harbor freight - whole case at $4.xx)
Is the washer made of stainless steel or aluminium? I can't remember!
 
#5 ·
One should be careful when draining gear oil early. Factory gear oil fills, whether they be forcars, trucks, motorcycles, etc always contain molybdenum to ensure proper break-in (initial wearing and meshing) of the gears. Replacement gear oil does not contain moly. The reason the drained gear oil looks dirty, sometimes even black, is because of the moly. There are no combustion products in used gear oil to darken it like crankcase oil.

In summary, you may be thinking you are doing a good thing by replacing gear oil early, but in reality you are not. I suggest following the manufacturer's recommendation on gear oil changes. BTW, you can buy a tube of moly additive, and add some to your gearbox or diff if you really want to change the oil early. The stuff looks like black watery toothpaste.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for your advice.

I think you are right but what do you think is proper break-in period for RAV4 2014?
Before I changed gear oil, I did enough research about cons and pros along with Valvoline advice.
If I am not mistaken, break-in period already has passed since my RAV4 is over 8K.
Moly additive is good but not for me at this moment.
Once I change it again, I will post oil status as a follow-up. Let's find out.

I appreciate your educated recommendation.








Proper Differential Maintenance Break-in and Routine
 

Attachments

#11 ·
The example you show was put out by Amsoil, I don't trust their recommendations, as they are out for what's best for them and not necessarily what's best for the consumer.


I believe Bigbird1 is right on his recommendation. If you own a Harley- Davidson, you know why I have distrust for that brand of oil, they use questionable tactics to prove they have the best oil, personally I would never use the stuff, or believe their marketing hype.
 
#24 ·
Any reason why anyone would prefer the Mobil-1 over the Valvoline or vice versa besides the costs involve?
In my opinion, mostly has to do with individual's preference (in my case) then followed by what may be available locally and the price. For our daily driving purpose, both brands (and many others, even some none full synthetic) will yield enough protection especially when we keep up with regular maintenance.
 
#26 ·
Are you referring to the engine motor oil capacity (approximately 5-qts with new oil filter) or if the front transfer case plus the rear differential fluid together is just short of 1-qt only (I think it's about 0.5-qt for the front TC and 0.48-qt for the rear diff).
 
#29 · (Edited)
On the driver side, the black oil pan with a silver drain plug that is the transmission oil pan and drain plug.

If you are only referring to the transfer case fluid and the rear differential, their total capacity is just about one (1) qt. I went to the beginning of the thread, the reference to "4.8 qts" was likely a typo, that should be 0.48-qt as mentioned by vanib (the 4th post in the thread).
 
#32 ·
I just bought a 2015 rav 4 xle. you're talking about the differentials. I'm assuming you have a manual or AWD. From what I understand, my rav 4 has an automatic and only change the trans fluid. it doesn't have a rear differential and none up front either. Is that right?
 
#33 ·
Sounds like you have a front wheel drive RAV4 rather than an AWD? The "differential" or rear differential to be exact is a part of the AWD paired with the transfer case (a.k.a TC as some members call it), both the TC and the rear differential use gear lube (75w-85 Toyota OEM or for some use 75w-90 full synthetic aftermarket) in addition to the transmission with ATF.
 
#34 ·
yes, FWD so I shouldn't have a differential (or separate one). it's in the trans from what I understand. Thanks. I wish it had a dipstick so I don't have to remove that black plastic panel to get at the filler plug. Pain in the butt. Also has to be level so forget my ramps.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top