I just bought a Curt trailer hitch from eTrailer for my 2016 RAV4 XLE Hybrid. It will be used for a bike rack. Now I need to have it installed as I have no desire to do it myself.
Local Toyota dealer and a trailer hitch business both want $220(!) to do it. To me that is too much to pay. Should I try a regular general automotive garage? Any other advice or suggestions for this?
It should take far less than an hour for a mechanic to install it, I'm no pro and it was done in 45 minutes including positioning and backing onto ramps, at $100 and hour, that's about what they should charge. They will have to remove the factory tie down brackets and trim a plastic panel, but it's no big deal.
Here is part of the tips that I shared for the Hybrid that might be helpful to you:
Installing Hitch and Wiring
I chose the 1 1/4 hitch because I use it primarily for a bike rack and for an occasional trailer pull. It is also available in the 2 inch size.
Actually, on the eTrailer site Curt hitch there are numerous pictures and a complete video for the hitch install and the page for the wiring kit also has a good installation video.
These installs apply to the 2013-2016 Rav4.
Modifications for the hitch - cover panel to modify:
The 2016 RAV4 Hybrid has a plastic cover panel covering the tie down rack. It was easy to remove, but it had to be modified and replaced after the hitch installation. I just used a cutting tool to cut away a small part of the plastic cover to make room for the hitch before reinstalling.
The Curt hitch is only a four bolt installation - should be a DIY project. If there are plastic guards in the mounting holes on the underside of the RAV these need to be removed, then it's best to clean the pre-threaded mounting holes especially if they are dirty or rusty. Then it's best to have someone to hold the hitch in place while the mounting bolts are inserted through the hitch mounting flanges and into the threaded holes on the RAV. With help it should take about half to 3/4s an hour, less if the RAV's mounting holes don't need to be cleaned.
It took me 1/2 hour for the hitch and 2 hours for the wiring harness....its the cable running to the battery that takes time. Thats on my 2010. Did you know its the same hitch for 3rd and 4th generation Rav4s? Looks like the wiring harness is different.
Guys, would this multiple-ball ball mount work with our RAV4 for hauling U-Haul trailers? It seems we only really need the 2" ball. Any other ball mount recommendations with the rise and drop that will cover a wide range of trailers? I don't have a trailer but a good neighbor has one and I will likely have to rent from U-Haul.
I've been using an interchangeable ball for about 30 years since I've had both 1-7/8" and 2" couplers on several trailers, has always worked fine, here's one that's similar, mine has a cross pin that holds the balls on.
Choosing the ball mount itself would be dependent on the trailer, I like the trailer to be level when hooked up, for the Rav4 that mean you'll want a ball mount with a bit of rise since the receiver is low, enough rise to put the trailer coupler about bumper height.
Wow that's a nice one but I'd only pay that much if I often towed several different ball size and height trailers. And I'd invest in a locking hitch pin!
Something else to consider is a silencer/anti-rattle device, nothing more aggravating than a rattling coupling on a long trip. I've used two that work real well.
I just bought a Curt trailer hitch from eTrailer for my 2016 RAV4 XLE Hybrid. It will be used for a bike rack. Now I need to have it installed as I have no desire to do it myself.
I did my class-III myself in about 45 minutes total, taking my time, cleaning all surfaces and the bolt holes with a brush/WD-40, and torquing everything to specification with a long 3/8" torque wrench. My wife helped by getting the bolts started while I muscled the hitch up in place (it's a good 60 lbs so not for the faint of heart...using arms and knees to hold it in place helped a lot). $220 for install is outrageous. I believe I backed the RAV4 on to my ramps that I picked up from chinamart.The most time consuming part was getting the exhaust pipe un-pinned from the hanger (exhaust pipe was in the way on the 2015). Will want to spray some dry lube on the hanger pin to make sliding it off easier.
Just came back from a 550 mile vacation in Michigan using my Curt hitch and Swagman XC2 platform bike rack. That rack is amazing as you install the rack plus load and secure 2 bikes in less than 5 minutes. Once on the road I only noticed minimum swaying of the rack even at 75 mph.
I have the very one. First one i've ever purchase and hopefully the last. I love the thing - Quick/Easy to use and bike movement/vibration is virtually non-existent. The 1/2" cross bolt needs to be ratcheted on firmly otherwise the rack/bikes will be bouncing around but figured that out before driving with it on.
Biggest difference for me is Curt is made in the US, dunno about Drawtite, there's no mention of where they're made on the Drawtite website, the first Curt has a 2" receiver opening, the bottom Curt has an 1¼" receiver opening, they all have different weight ratings that exceed the Rav4.4 limits.
Go with the 2" receiver. It's beefier to start with and 2" receiver equipment is beefier. You can always buy an adapter if you have a 1 1/4" piece of equipment, but in my experience 1 1/4" equipment is flimsier.
Go for the Curt 2", that's what I bought, it's very popular here on the forum. If you want something hidden(only the receiver tube is below the bumper cover/valance), the Torklift Ecohitch is the only choice, but it's close to $300.
I have a 2017 RAV4 XLE. I purchased the Draw Tite #75235 which comes with wiring kit #118578, total cost was $162.00 shipped to me in NC. This was the easiest install I have ever done. The wiring kit was a bit tougher. Purchased a six piece plastic inteirior tool set that was a great help. Installed the hitch in about 45 minutes, the wire harness took about 2 1/2 hours but could do it again in 1 1/2 hours. The Draw Tite that I purchased is a 2" unit. I have a 5'5"X10' aluminum trailer that hauls like a dream.
As I said I'm a bit newer. This should fit a 2017 hybrid rav4 correct? I know the battery is in the back so wanna make sure this is correct. Is this wiring kit only for the lights or does it cover the brakes as well?
I don't have the Hybrid version but thinking the body's are the same? Anyways, the wiring kit comes as one harness. Once the rear hatch trim is removed you first disconnect the drivers side tail light harness (which is located under the upper trim that you have to pull away from the vehicle to get at. Separate the connector and install the driver's side T connector, route the remaining harness over to the passenger side and repeat. There is a small black electrical box, for lack of the proper terminology, that you attach to the lower vehicle spare tire pan with double sided tape. You have to drill one small hole and mount an grounding wire. At the bottom of the ban there is a factory bracket welded in place that allows for mounting the grounding wire. The last wire to attach is the positive wire that goes to the positive post on the battery. If your battery is in the rear holy cow that would be so nice and easy. I do hope this helped somewhat.
As I said "So you end up buying the lighting harness, the brake controller (I use Tekonsha brand) and the extra two wires."
The lighting harness is the 4 pole one which vehicle specific & pretty much plug & play.
The brake controller, extra wiring and 7-round are all custom installed. I use the Tekonsha 39510 and have installed half a dozen over the years. But doing it again I'd probably use a Tekonsha P2 since it has a neat quick release mount shone at the .
(The rest of the video doesn't apply since it's on a pickup that prewired for towing.)
If you're not adept at electrical work as V T says you might be better off buying all those parts locally from a trailer or U-Haul dealer and have them do the work. Here's an etrailer video that shows the 7-round kit you'll need and the install on an earlier RAV4 so you get a good idea of the job. (If the guy would edit out all the "go aheads" :egad:it would be two minutes shorter!) In general what I don't like about their videos is routing the battery & brake wires under the vehicle. It takes more time working behind plastic panels but I prefer the inside route.
I work customer service for a truck bumper manufacturer, we run into this situation all the time. If you don't buy the product directly from the store you want to install it, they'll either refuse to install or charge too much. If you don't want to do it yourself, your best bet is to take it to a body shop and see what they'll charge. Most of the time, they're just happy to get the sale of installing something. I would try a smaller company with a good reputation, they will likely work with you on price.
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