Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

DIY Maintenance

7K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  1000MPH 
#1 ·
There is no DIY (Do It Yourself) maintenance sections on this forum. Can the admins add a DIY maintenance section for those of us interested in performing and sharing knowledge related to properly maintaining our RAV4? DIY maintenance saves money and gains knowledge. There should be a DIY section for each generation as there will be differences.

I would like to eventually see threads under the DIY sections for properly replacing all fluids (oil, transmission, rear differential, power steering, brakes, coolant), drive belt, performing brake service (pads/rotors), at a minimum.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
I still need to find a service manual for the 2015 RAV4 (if anyone has a link please share). However in my experience the service manual (even the mfc version) often isn't helpful for various reasons:
- Don't show where the bolts are (due to bad diagrams)
- Generalize steps (ie: step 1 - "drain the coolant"...ok HOW??)
- Don't tell you what parts you need to replace for certain procedures, such as crush washers when removing a diff bolt (ok what's the part number?)

Having a thread dedicated to each procedure will be invaluable to getting it done right the first time.
 
#5 ·
Picked up an extra tow bolt from the dealer this week and asked if they will ever get a Haynes or Chilton manual for our generation RAV. He said "not likely ever because they are all going electronic". I think that is a bogus answer. I sure would like a Haynes manual for my RAV.

They are good enough that I used one to pull the engine out of my 1975 Opel Manta, rebuild the manual transmission, reinstall everything . . . and the car started up the first time! I'm no mechanic either, so that's saying a lot about Haynes manuals.
 
#6 ·
Most services you probably don't even need a manual.

For power steering I'm planning to get the front end on jack stands and look for the lowest drain spot (most likely at the loop cooler). Ensure engine is NOT running. Disconnect the line at loop cooler and let it drain. Then turn steering wheel from "lock to lock" until all fluid is drained. Re-connect line at loop cooler, refill with new power steering fluid and turn steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed any air out of the system. When no bubbles appear it's done. Top off the PS reservoir. Always recommend OEM fluid, otherwise ensure it meets the specs as shown in the owners manual.

For coolant, there should be a drain plug at the bottom edge of the radiator (usually a white plastic wing nut). Ensure car is cold (SAFETY FIRST!). Remove the radiator drain plug and allow to drain. With a clean/new siphon-pump siphon out the coolant reservoir. Once drained, screw drain plug back into radiator (NOT too tight - it's plastic). Full up radiator and reservoir with distilled water (NOT garden hose water unless you want hard minerals and lead in your engine). Run the engine for 15-20 minutes (during this time I run the A/C or defroster for 10 minutes and then the heater for 10 minutes). The idea being to get the coolant circulating by opening the thermostat. Turn off engine. Allow the car to cool (if you have an air compressor you can blow off the radiator to speed up the cool down). After 15 minutes or so, repeat the steps (drain radiator, siphon reservoir, refill with distilled). After draining for the 3rd time (or drains clear) it's time to refill. Find out the total capacity of the cooling system (owners manual). Estimate how much coolant drains. Based on total capacity and amount drained, determine how much water is stuck in the engine. Account for this delta when you mix your coolant (goal is 50% or 55% if you live up north). refill coolant. I would highly recommend a Lisle Coolant Funnel (https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u...s/products/24680STOPPER_5C6AFFC1B6756.jpg&f=1)

Need to find out more about the transmission.

For rear differential, should just be a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the side. Ensure the car is level before you begin. Remove the fill plug first (in case you can't get it off after you drain!). THEN remove the drain plug. Allow oil to drain. Put drain plug back in along with a new crush washer. Torque to spec. Get an OTC 2359 oil pump (~$20). Fill with the appropriate oil (see owners manual). Pump oil into fill plug until it begins to overflow out. Stop filling and allow excess to drip out. Replace fill plug along with new crush washer and torque to spec.

There should be a good oil change video on youtube.

I haven't done any of these services yet on my 2015 RAV4. When I do I'll update this thread with pics.
 
#7 ·
Most services you probably don't even need a manual.

For power steering I'm planning to get the front end on jack stands and look for the lowest drain spot (most likely at the loop cooler). Ensure engine is NOT running. Disconnect the line at loop cooler and let it drain. Then turn steering wheel from "lock to lock" until all fluid is drained. Re-connect line at loop cooler, refill with new power steering fluid and turn steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed any air out of the system. When no bubbles appear it's done. Top off the PS reservoir. Always recommend OEM fluid, otherwise ensure it meets the specs as shown in the owners manual.

Good luck with that, Rav4s have had EPS (Electric Power Steering) since 2006, there is no fluid.


 
#9 ·
Most people with some mechanical and automotive repair ability can do the routine maintenance every 5,000 miles. However, for those having less knowledge but willingness to learn would like more on DIY "Do-It-Yourself" as to visual inspect, where to lubricate, the location of fluids needed to check and more. You can find some things on You Tube such as Changing oil, replacing brakes pads and rotors, ATF automatic transmission fluid, and more. There are many required tools in performing these tasks. Also, obtaining the correct parts and their cost. Next is getting the RAV4 raised high enough to work underneath it. If you have No Tools or know how and starting from scratch, it can be overwhelming. Purchasing parts on Amazon, eBay, other online websites or local Auto Store may get you a real good price and save a lot of money. But do you have the Proper Tools for the Task at hand? Do you have the time? Parts can be expensive and very much Labor cost. What happens if you ordered the wrong part only to find out when you have taken everything apart and now stuck with an inoperable vehicle. Plan carefully, be Safe. When working let someone close by know. Best if you have an observer and helper. Never work alone as they say. Safety First. We all love to save money, but there are no Short Cuts in doing the Job Correctly.
Do yourself a favor, do the simple stuff and leave the hard stuff to the real mechanics. Maintaining your vehicle plus washing, waxing and cleaning inside out at least once a month will make it last a long time.
Do not neglect your vehicle. Check fluids, oil changes, brakes and tires, and never overfilling the gas tank or running it dry to empty will do wonders so you can drive for extra years.
Start seeing Rust, find ways to slow it down. Some people go get Rusty Check, Ziebart, Krown or Corrosion Free.
 
#11 ·
There are a bunch of “how to“ threads in the 4.4 Mechanical section.
I would definitely like to see more as well
Like others mentioned, there are lots of vids on YouTube.
I like Petr, the guy behind “Toyota-Maintenance“, he’s entertaining.
i posted an oil change thread years ago, maybe ill remember to take pics this month when I perform 60k service (Brake fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, transfer case)
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJB63
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top