Newbie here! I am looking to install compustart cs800 RS, with EVO-all bypass, and wondering if anyone has done this?. Do I have to buy the flash updater unit, or will it work out of the box on my RAV? (units on ebay have version 6 hardware and firmware 4.1 only,.. no higher).Is this a better RS than Viper? I read on the fortin website that this bypass can also function as a standalone RS if its flashed with the updater tool. Can anyone confirm? TIA!
Well, this could be a long topic. First the EVO-ALL bypass module.
The EVO-ALL is an excellent bypass module for your vehicle. It will do a lot for you and make the install fairly easy. That being said, I would recommend getting the FlashLink2 updater module. The EVO-ALL must be flashed with the correct firmware, which for the RAV4 is currently Ver 79.39. You could request that the seller does this for you but there are some additional options that must be set. If these option changes aren't made, the install won't be as easy or possibly not work at all. If you review the EVO-ALL install guide ( http://fortin.ca/download/31741/evo-all_ig_reg_bi_toy_rav4_2013-2015_hkey_i_31741.pdf ), it requires option C1 and D2 to be set. Additionally, the CS800-s is capable of 2-way ADS protocol. Going this way would allow the CS800-s to communicate with the EVO-ALL via the 4 pin Data harness. That means that on the EVO-ALL install diagram all the dash lines are handled via the 4 pin data harness. Only the solid Black lines would be hard wired. However, to do this the EVO-ALL must be set to option F2 so that it will properly communicate with the CS800-s via the 4 Pin data harness.
The Compustar CS800-s is a nice, solid unit. It comes with the Flex Ignition output set for Ignition2, which is needed for the RAV4. All of the RAV4's ignition wires are very thin gauge ( ~ 20 gauge ). The CS800-s thick ignition wires can be used but I cut them off at about 3 inches and solder on 18 gauge stranded wire with the same color insulation for the run to the steering column and ignition switch. I would recommend combining the CS800-s two Red +12V input wires into one wire, fuse at 20 Amps and connecting it to the thick White wire at the lower left corner of the fuse box instead of that thin wire at the ignition switch. Photo below :
Thanks for that ! Very helpful. Reading the fortin pdf I have no need for the OEM-remote monitoring feature nor OEM alarm lock/unlock (C1, and D2), as I have no security alarm on this RAV, I would just need the key bypass which is shown at the end of the pdf doc on how to program the unit to your key. Is there any reason then to update the software to 79.xx??
Also I do not think I can splice/solder a 20 awg wire, so looking for a T-harness preferably, but turning up nothing with fortin nor online anywhere. Is such a harness available
? fortin seems to have them for all other cars, but not toyota RAV4!
The EVO-ALL will probably need to be flashed with the correct firmware. I believe that the EVO-ALL is shipped with Ver 4.18 firmware. That works on most older vehicles. However, the H Key is something that came out way after Ver 4.18. Here is a basic breakdown of their firmware.
6.70.xx is for GM products
6.71.xx is for Ford family products
6.72.xx is for Nissan / Infinity
6.73.xx is for Honda / Acura
6.74.xx is for Chrysler / Dodge/ Jeep etc
6.75.xx is for VW / Audi / Porsche
6.76.xx is for Hyundai / KIA
6.77.xx is for Volvo / Jaguar and Land Rover
6.78.xx is for BMW / MB / Mini
6.79.xx is for Toyota / Lexus
Additionally, Fortin modules usually work best when the install guide is followed very closely. Even if you don't think you need Option C1 and D2, it would be best to set those anyway.
I am not aware of any T-Harness available for your car. I prefer to solder all the necessary connections to ensure long lasting reliability. It might best best to bring your RAV to a local, well respected, 12V install shop with a good reputation if you don't want to learn to solder. Of course, there are some shops that use T-Taps and Scotch-Locks so be sure to ask about that first.
Great! Thanks again. Another option would be to use the OEM key 3 press to start, thereby eliminating the Compustar altogether. Would this be feasible? It does require some programming with the updater tool, my only worry is "wear" on the OEM key buttons (not cheap to replace!).
I do not believe that the 3x Lock is an valid working option with the EVO-ALL for that Gen RAV4. It might be listed in the Options while programming the EVO-ALL, but that is a complete list of all EVO-ALL options, some of which are not applicable and probably don't work. It is not listed in the Fortin solutions WEB page like it is for other vehicles. A call to Fortin Tech Support should be made to verify this.
The main objection to 3x Lock is the short range of the factory remotes. The CS800-s remotes will have at least three times the range, allowing you to remote start the RAV4 at a goodly distance. Another possible issue with 3x Lock would be if the factory remotes no longer worked while the engine was remote started. This is normal for Toyota vehicles. After the engine was running, you would be stuck using the key to unlock the drivers door. A $50 CS800-s system is a reasonable price for the added range and functions.
Here is an early Pictorial on the 2013 - 2016 H-key RAV4's : 2013 rav4 remote start with keyless entry pictorial
It was done before the major bypass module manufacturers came out with the H-key data bypass solution. The disassembly and ignition wires are probably on the only relevant items for you.
Good advice, I will definitely go for the flash updater then! Just wondering how do I connect the 2 red power 12V wires to the thick white one (+12V 120A) at the kick panel, as in your thumbnail pic?
The thicker the wire, the more difficult it is to get a proper solder connection and I always solder every wire during an install. My current favorite soldering iron is the Hakko FX601-2. It is compact enough to safely access wires under the dash and has enough power to handle those thicker wires. It heats up quickly and has adjustable temperature control.
In your install the two thick Red wires from the CS800-s can be combined into one wire with one fuse and that one Red wire can be run to and connected to the thick White 120 Amp wire at the fuse box. The total current needs for that R/S system is less than 20 Amps. The alternative is to run the CS800-s Red power input wire directly to the battery and use a soldered on terminal ring at the battery clamp. That is a bit more work because it's a longer run with the firewall to breach and other engine compartment issues to deal with ( weather, heat, vibration, etc ).