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12V socket in Cargo Area

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21K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  vanib  
#1 ·
I installed the 12V outlet in the cargo area this weekend. Not in my preferred location but it'll do.

At the cargo area end you need to remove the tyre, floor panels and the storage bin storage bin in the spare tyre well. Once that's done, use a hole saw to cut the area of the trim where the socket will go. You'll need about 4 meters (12') of household or auto electrical cable.

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Channeling the cable through the cabin was easy. Just pull up the door step plastics and you even have vacant clips for the wiring. The rest is just tucking the wire between the cabin plastics and the carpet.

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The hardest part of the job was getting the cable through the firewall. There's a rubber plug on the passenger side, just lift the bottom of the cap enough to slip the cable through. I put a piece of rubber sponge between the cable and the metal firewall panel to avoid any chance of the metal cutting into the cable.

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Before you get to this point however you'll be messing around in the passenger footwell to access the firewall grommet. You'll have to remove the panel under the glove compartment and a wiring junction panel just inside the door frame. There's a little screw you can undo with your fingers which makes things easy. Sorry I don't have a photo of this.
 
#2 ·
Connecting to the battery is a simple affair. I put a fuse on the positive wire but most cigarette lighter devices have their own inbuilt fuse so this will probably not be necessary for most users. I soldered 2 ring terminals and placed them over the screw on each battery terminal and used the existing nuts to secure. I also wrapped some split cable ducting around the wires where I could and plenty of electrical tape.

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#9 ·
If you ever add a hitch you can use that power to supply power to the trailer lights. There are two types of adapters to connect to the factory wiring harness. One uses the power going to the lights while the nicer ones use a separate power line so if something shorts out on the trailer you don't damage/ blow the fuse on the factory harness or loose your brakes/ tail lights.
 
#11 ·
I haven't done this yet, but I plan to add an outlet to the cargo area and to the rear seating area. I plan on using the constant power that I installed for the trailer lighting. The items being used should never blow the 10amp fuse. I of course do not plan on using all three at the same time.
 
#13 ·
Technically, they will be in parallel but adding more load to the same wires (heat) and using the same fuse. If both outlets are used simultaneously, will the fuse blow?

You have to make a calculation and see if the current fuse will allow for what you are doing or will changing the fuse to something higher might let unwanted high current damage appliances which would normally not be damaged.

Thats' why most people run an independent setup like the OP.