[bandit7319]

That's almost the same setup that I installed in mine, except instead of the powerpack I used the MRV-F300 amp. I've been mostly happy with it but my main gripes are that a lot of rap (the quick, hard hits) and techno bass sound like they'll blow the speakers. I've set my iPod to the Bass Reducer equalizer function and turned the bass up on the head unit accordingly to compensate. I decided to do that because it sounded to me (granted I'm no pro audio person) like the bands for Treb/Mid/Bass were WAY too broad on the head unit, so turning the bass down seemed to turn mids down too and gave the overall stereo a much flatter sound. Just a tip

Kicked around the idea of adding a sub but for the bass I'm looking for, I don't think it'll add a whole lot to it. For those curious and wanting to do research for me that own one of these subs :-D lol. Here are a few songs that accurately represent what I'm looking for

Crystal Method:
PhD
High Roller

Chris Brown - Drop it Low
Nelly - Country Grammar

Not that I'm expecting anyone to actually test lol. But I'd be pleasantly surprised if someone did!

 

[Bignorm4Life]

Why only only do Component speakers in the fronts and not the back... because of the ease of Pre-existing wiring?

 

[Trik69]

Components are more expensive and since they are the back speakers there is not any real gain for the driver. The advantages of component speakers are that high frequency is directional and that's why they are in the dash to point towards those in the front cabin.

 

[dimeadip]

I finished installing this very system in my 2014 XLE last night. The difference is amazing. Especially for the $250 it cost for the speakers and amp. Install was a bit tedious, particularly the amp without RCA inputs. A lot of that "point of no return" feeling. I'd say of the systems I've installed over the last 30 years, I'd rate this one a 5 for difficulty. Not bad.

I'd say don't even attempt without the speaker baffles Cecil referenced. I did it without the speaker wire adapter. You're going to splice about 40 wires or so anyway. Save the money.

Searching this forum for Speakers gives about all the info you need.

Thank you, Cecil, for a great idea and great write up.

 

[dimeadip]

I forgot, a couple minutes with a Dremmel and you can cut out the chintzy factory tweeters and reuse the mount for the Alpine tweeters. Looks factory - specially when you put the factory dash cover back over it.

 

[ideutsch]

Great writeup! I'm about to do a similar install with the Alpine KTP-445U on a 2015 RAV4. The only difference is that I want to do all my wiring and soldering on the bench top and not have to cut or splice any factory wires. I purchased these two harnesses to connect between the factory harness and the radio with the amplifier connecting at the junctions where necessary. Does anyone see a reason why this won't work? The only thing that concerns me after looking at the harness images and the pin diagrams is that the 6 pin connector of the TA02B is missing pin 5 and the 10 pin connector has pins 8 and 9 joined together. Otherwise I think this will result in a clean installation that is easy to return to factory if needed.

Toyota Harness | Toyota Radio Harness Diagram | 1987-Up | TA02B | by Scosche
Toyota Radio Harness | 1987 & Up Toyota Replacement Harness | TA02RB | by Scosche

 

[ideutsch]

Install is complete with noticeable improvement in volume and quality. Definitely need to keep the gain settings at minimum to avoid white noise on speakers while nothing is playing. Only thing to note with using the harnesses is that pins 8 and 9 are not needed on the 10 pin harness. I used those pins/wires for pin 5 on the 6 pin harness. All connections were soldered and heat shrunk, including the three way junctions for battery and ground.

 

[dimeadip]

I just installed the Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub under my passenger seat this weekend (same sub shown above). I found if you turn it 90° and move it to the right, it will just fit in the space without blocking the heater outlet or extending into the rear passenger foot room. Tight fit, but it fits.

I purchased and tried the Alpine PWE-S8. It is too big to fit under the seat. If you slide it under the seat, the bottom of the seat hits it when the seat is moved back. And it completely blocks the heater outlet - which, besides blocking the heat, won't be good for keeping the sub cool. I'm sure the Alpine sound is better, but it you're looking for the completely hidden look - which I was - the Kenwood is the way to go.

 

[Rav4Nature]

Nice work!

Do those speaker adapters work for the doors on a 2017 Hybrid?

 

[Rav4Nature]

Up. Does anyone know whether those midbass adapter rings will suit the doors on a 2017 Hybrid?

 

[Qutzy]

they should be the same

 

[don_ra2906]

speaker baffles

Why do you get more speaker baffles ? Didn't to the speaker kit already come with some ?

 

[don_ra2906]

Why use the separate speaker baffles ? Didn't a set come with the speaker kit ?

 

[Budoy]

Just leased a new LE AWD. Stock sound is pretty bad as Im sure most here know if they have one.


I wanted to use the stuff I already had, but after testing the stock electrical, there's no way that was going to happen. Not without some major electrical upgrades that I wouldn't do to a lease. All stock at idle, voltage is 13.73V. With radio on normal volume, AC and brights on, it drops to 13.30V which is a large drop for stock. Wouldn't feel comfortable running much power at all through it.




So I just stuck to a low budget, stock look setup for now. Total price with tools and installation parts so far is $350.


Amp and Speakers


Alpine type S 6.5 components and coaxs, $140
Amazon.com : Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics


Alpine "power pack" mini 45x4 amp $125
Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics


Tools and installation


Trim panel tools $16
Amazon.com: 5Pc Auto Trim Door Panel Window Molding Upholstery Clip Removal Tool Kit: Automotive


Speaker baffles $26 (all four)
Amazon.com : Toyota Aftermarket 6.5-Inch Plastic Speaker Adapter (Black) : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics


Speaker connectors $11 (all four)
Amazon.com: Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles: Electronics


5mm drill bit $3
YG-1 High Speed Steel Gold-P Jobber Drill Bit, TiN Finish, Straight Shank, Slow Spiral, 135 Degree, 5.0mm Diameter x 86mm Length (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Contractor grade riveter $22
Amazon.com: Stanley MR100CG Contractor Grade Riveter: Home Improvement


4mm rivets $8
Amazon.com: Stanley Paa58-5B Aluminum Rivets, 5/32 Inch X 1/2 Inch, Pack of 50: Home Improvement




Could save a few bucks if you have tools already or want to switch from rivets to screws/bolts. Also Kenwood has a mini amp that is similar for a bit less, but doesn't bridge channels like the Alpine.


Ive heard the Alpine speakers and the Kenwood KFC-P709Ps components, and the Alpine is a bit more clear, while the Kenwoods had more mid bass. I plan to add a sub soon, so I went with the Alpines. If you aren't adding a sub, or if you want to save a few bucks on the Kenwood amp and speakers, you cant go wrong either way for this price bracket.




Should have the stuff early next week. Will take some pics during the install. Hoping there is enough room behind the head unit to fit the mini amp. When done, going to retest the electrical and make a judgment call on how much more power I think it will take for a sub, which will determine the rest of what is going in it.






Update for install.








Got the speakers in so far. Ended up taking a few hours longer then I thought since the rivets didn't work out. Had to run and get some screws at some point. Here are some install pics.




First step for the doors, pry off this piece.



Then pry here, and here.








Use a nail to pull this piece back a little to slide the tool in and pull straight back. Then work your way down.





For this piece, pry over the lock.





Remove the screw by the handle, and the two big screws in the deep holes behind where the silver trim was.




Then start prying the 9 clips around the edge of the door panel (8 clips for rear) and pull up. Unclip the door handle and lock levers.





Once you drill off the rivet top, you see the rivets are imbedded in a rubber piece which makes it a pain to remove. Just keep drilling.





Chances are this will happen a couple times,





Use something strong to try and pull out the rest of the rivet, or to smash/cut off this part so you can push it through the hole.





I had some CLD tiles left from a previous car, so went ahead and put a few strips in the door. 25% coverage is more then enough. A few strips here and there is all that's needed. Couple this with MLV and CCF behind the door panel for a great sound deadened door. Here is a link to learn more and order.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/







Padded the mounts with CCF.





Screwed in.







Pry the tweeter cover straight up. 10mm bolts hold it in. Pull it and disconnect it.





Connect the two same color wires together and put a butt on them.



I make tweeter mounts out of cardboard. Very easy, cheap and flexible.













Back doors are the same as the front, just one less clip, and no plastic piece by the window to pry.






There is a bit more noticeable volume even without an amp. Sound is much improved, and mid bass is more improved then I expected. Still probably going to add a sub at some point. But at least so far, with volume around 40, it can be heard fine with the windows down at 75mph.








Updated, installed Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack Amp.






Got the KTP-445U in. Actually very surprised how well it works for the size and rating. Ive ran 100rms to much better components then these with fully deadened doors before, and while this setup obviously isn't as good, its still very good. Id say its closer to that setup then the stock setup in this. Enough midbass to rattle all the mirrors, enough volume for it to be pretty loud on the highway with the windows down, and pretty darn good sound quality as well. Will test the voltage hit tomorrow, but doubting it will be much.




For install go to post #23. Cant link enough photos to this post.

I’m thinking of using a very similar amp, the Alpine KTP 445A since I’ve changed my head unit to an alpine. Says that is should be plug and play. Wondering if the fuse in the radio circuit can handle the amp. Did you have to run a cable to the battery to power the amp?

 

[Mattor24]

Install is complete with noticeable improvement in volume and quality. Definitely need to keep the gain settings at minimum to avoid white noise on speakers while nothing is playing. Only thing to note with using the harnesses is that pins 8 and 9 are not needed on the 10 pin harness. I used those pins/wires for pin 5 on the 6 pin harness. All connections were soldered and heat shrunk, including the three way junctions for battery and ground.

Where did you connect the blue turn on wire to the harness? Im losing my mind to find the connection.