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Upgrading Audio In 14 LE

58K views 54 replies 24 participants last post by  Mattor24 
#1 · (Edited)
Just leased a new LE AWD. Stock sound is pretty bad as Im sure most here know if they have one.


I wanted to use the stuff I already had, but after testing the stock electrical, there's no way that was going to happen. Not without some major electrical upgrades that I wouldn't do to a lease. All stock at idle, voltage is 13.73V. With radio on normal volume, AC and brights on, it drops to 13.30V which is a large drop for stock. Wouldn't feel comfortable running much power at all through it.




So I just stuck to a low budget, stock look setup for now. Total price with tools and installation parts so far is $350.


Amp and Speakers


Alpine type S 6.5 components and coaxs, $140
Amazon.com : Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics


Alpine "power pack" mini 45x4 amp $125
Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics


Tools and installation


Trim panel tools $16
Amazon.com: 5Pc Auto Trim Door Panel Window Molding Upholstery Clip Removal Tool Kit: Automotive


Speaker baffles $26 (all four)
Amazon.com : Toyota Aftermarket 6.5-Inch Plastic Speaker Adapter (Black) : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics


Speaker connectors $11 (all four)
Amazon.com: Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles: Electronics


5mm drill bit $3
YG-1 High Speed Steel Gold-P Jobber Drill Bit, TiN Finish, Straight Shank, Slow Spiral, 135 Degree, 5.0mm Diameter x 86mm Length (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Contractor grade riveter $22
Amazon.com: Stanley MR100CG Contractor Grade Riveter: Home Improvement


4mm rivets $8
Amazon.com: Stanley Paa58-5B Aluminum Rivets, 5/32 Inch X 1/2 Inch, Pack of 50: Home Improvement




Could save a few bucks if you have tools already or want to switch from rivets to screws/bolts. Also Kenwood has a mini amp that is similar for a bit less, but doesn't bridge channels like the Alpine.


Ive heard the Alpine speakers and the Kenwood KFC-P709Ps components, and the Alpine is a bit more clear, while the Kenwoods had more mid bass. I plan to add a sub soon, so I went with the Alpines. If you aren't adding a sub, or if you want to save a few bucks on the Kenwood amp and speakers, you cant go wrong either way for this price bracket.




Should have the stuff early next week. Will take some pics during the install. Hoping there is enough room behind the head unit to fit the mini amp. When done, going to retest the electrical and make a judgment call on how much more power I think it will take for a sub, which will determine the rest of what is going in it.






Update for install.








Got the speakers in so far. Ended up taking a few hours longer then I thought since the rivets didn't work out. Had to run and get some screws at some point. Here are some install pics.




First step for the doors, pry off this piece.



Then pry here, and here.








Use a nail to pull this piece back a little to slide the tool in and pull straight back. Then work your way down.





For this piece, pry over the lock.





Remove the screw by the handle, and the two big screws in the deep holes behind where the silver trim was.




Then start prying the 9 clips around the edge of the door panel (8 clips for rear) and pull up. Unclip the door handle and lock levers.





Once you drill off the rivet top, you see the rivets are imbedded in a rubber piece which makes it a pain to remove. Just keep drilling.





Chances are this will happen a couple times,





Use something strong to try and pull out the rest of the rivet, or to smash/cut off this part so you can push it through the hole.





I had some CLD tiles left from a previous car, so went ahead and put a few strips in the door. 25% coverage is more then enough. A few strips here and there is all that's needed. Couple this with MLV and CCF behind the door panel for a great sound deadened door. Here is a link to learn more and order.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/







Padded the mounts with CCF.





Screwed in.







Pry the tweeter cover straight up. 10mm bolts hold it in. Pull it and disconnect it.





Connect the two same color wires together and put a butt on them.



I make tweeter mounts out of cardboard. Very easy, cheap and flexible.













Back doors are the same as the front, just one less clip, and no plastic piece by the window to pry.






There is a bit more noticeable volume even without an amp. Sound is much improved, and mid bass is more improved then I expected. Still probably going to add a sub at some point. But at least so far, with volume around 40, it can be heard fine with the windows down at 75mph.








Updated, installed Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack Amp.






Got the KTP-445U in. Actually very surprised how well it works for the size and rating. Ive ran 100rms to much better components then these with fully deadened doors before, and while this setup obviously isn't as good, its still very good. Id say its closer to that setup then the stock setup in this. Enough midbass to rattle all the mirrors, enough volume for it to be pretty loud on the highway with the windows down, and pretty darn good sound quality as well. Will test the voltage hit tomorrow, but doubting it will be much.




For install go to post #23. Cant link enough photos to this post.
 
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#2 ·
Good thread! :thumbs_up: Keen to see the photos of your install once it's done, take lots! :wink I'm interested in doing something similar in future, though I probably wont worry about a sub.

Interested to know how you go getting the plastic trim off, i'm a little worried about damaging it.

This might help if in case you don't have it already!
 
#8 · (Edited)
You need a line out converter. You tap it in to the rear channels and it gives you RCA outs.


If I go with an under the seat type sub, going to wait for this to come out.
Alpine PWE-S8 Compact 120-watt powered 8" subwoofer at Crutchfield.com




I have a 1500rms amp and AA Havoc 12 in a 2.25cu @ 31Hz box I built. No way the stock electrical will handle that. Probably not even half.
 
#12 ·
The speakers are not stock they are Alpine SPR-60c in the front and SPR-60 in the rear.

The kenwood sub is noticeable with the upgraded alpine speakers. So I would think it work well with the stock speakers.

I do like the specs of that small alpine sub someone posted. I might look into one someday.
 
#25 ·
Nothing was hard at all. Just a little more time consuming then I thought. Would have been much better with another person helping. With extending the wires, there was about 30-40 butts used, and you have to crimp both ends of each. Today my hand is very sore.




As for sub, Im thinking about the yet to be released Alpine PWE-S8 to go under a seat. Only thing is its not worth the $300 retail price Crutchfield has it for. So if I can get it on Amazon when it comes out around $200 I might pick it up. If not, Ill stick with one of my subs and just look for a smaller, lower power, more efficient amp then I have now.




All you would have to do for an amp with speaker level inputs is tap in to the rear channel line either at the radio or the door. For RCAs get a line out converter and use it to tap in to the channels. I have an Audio Control LC6i on hand which is basically a very high quality line out converter.




The Alpine power pack amp isn't for subs, nothing to run from it except it has a remote turn on wire.
 
#26 ·
Completely stock at idle, voltage was 13.73v.



With stock setup, max AC, high volume, and brights on, it drops to 13.30v.



With the power pack in, max AC, high volume, and brights on, it didn't drop.



With the above while revving to 2k RPM 13.60v.





Im going to guess between 300-600rms should be alright if keeping the volume down at idle. Might hook the amp I have up to it without installing it, just to put load on it and see where it starts to drop too much.




Want to do the big 3, but taking a quick look at the alternator looks like it may be a bit of a pain to do that one.
 
#34 ·
Here is another great compact powered sub that fits under the seat, the Kicker Hideaway, 150W powered sub. Comes with a remote too. I'll be installing this in my dad's impreza sport this week and likely the Rav 4.4. Amazon.com : Kicker Hideaway Compact Powered Sub : Vehicle Subwoofer Systems : Car Electronics

For anyone with a 4.3 and that storage area underneath the trunk (or 4.4 owners who don't mind taking up a little space) I have this one installed in my 2008 (in storage area under trunk) with stock speakers (soon to be upgraded) and it's amazing. http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-PES10C...=1431175706&sr=1-1&keywords=kicker+substation

Great write up Cecil, thanks! :thumbs_up:
 
#35 ·
Installing Crossover for dash tweeter and front door speaker

I've just order a component system to upgrade 2015 RAV4 speakers. Before I try to find myself, could someone point to me where is the best place to install the crossovers for dash tweeters and front door speakers.
Thanks.
 
#36 ·
I've just order a component system to upgrade 2015 RAV4 speakers. Before I try to find myself, could someone point to me where is the best place to install the crossovers for dash tweeters and front door speakers.
Thanks.
If you open the tweeter cover you can check if there is enough space there.
Furthermore, there you will find all the speakers cables (coming from the Radio and going towards the Subs)
For your convenience, here my pics: View image: 20150301 788 DSCN0316b
View image: 20150301 789 DSCN0317
 
#41 ·
That's almost the same setup that I installed in mine, except instead of the powerpack I used the MRV-F300 amp. I've been mostly happy with it but my main gripes are that a lot of rap (the quick, hard hits) and techno bass sound like they'll blow the speakers. I've set my iPod to the Bass Reducer equalizer function and turned the bass up on the head unit accordingly to compensate. I decided to do that because it sounded to me (granted I'm no pro audio person) like the bands for Treb/Mid/Bass were WAY too broad on the head unit, so turning the bass down seemed to turn mids down too and gave the overall stereo a much flatter sound. Just a tip :)

Kicked around the idea of adding a sub but for the bass I'm looking for, I don't think it'll add a whole lot to it. For those curious and wanting to do research for me that own one of these subs :-D lol. Here are a few songs that accurately represent what I'm looking for

Crystal Method:
PhD
High Roller

Chris Brown - Drop it Low
Nelly - Country Grammar

Not that I'm expecting anyone to actually test lol. But I'd be pleasantly surprised if someone did!
 
#44 ·
I finished installing this very system in my 2014 XLE last night. The difference is amazing. Especially for the $250 it cost for the speakers and amp. Install was a bit tedious, particularly the amp without RCA inputs. A lot of that "point of no return" feeling. I'd say of the systems I've installed over the last 30 years, I'd rate this one a 5 for difficulty. Not bad.

I'd say don't even attempt without the speaker baffles Cecil referenced. I did it without the speaker wire adapter. You're going to splice about 40 wires or so anyway. Save the money.

Searching this forum for Speakers gives about all the info you need.

Thank you, Cecil, for a great idea and great write up.
 
#46 ·
Great writeup! I'm about to do a similar install with the Alpine KTP-445U on a 2015 RAV4. The only difference is that I want to do all my wiring and soldering on the bench top and not have to cut or splice any factory wires. I purchased these two harnesses to connect between the factory harness and the radio with the amplifier connecting at the junctions where necessary. Does anyone see a reason why this won't work? The only thing that concerns me after looking at the harness images and the pin diagrams is that the 6 pin connector of the TA02B is missing pin 5 and the 10 pin connector has pins 8 and 9 joined together. Otherwise I think this will result in a clean installation that is easy to return to factory if needed.

Toyota Harness | Toyota Radio Harness Diagram | 1987-Up | TA02B | by Scosche
Toyota Radio Harness | 1987 & Up Toyota Replacement Harness | TA02RB | by Scosche
 
#47 · (Edited)
Install is complete with noticeable improvement in volume and quality. Definitely need to keep the gain settings at minimum to avoid white noise on speakers while nothing is playing. Only thing to note with using the harnesses is that pins 8 and 9 are not needed on the 10 pin harness. I used those pins/wires for pin 5 on the 6 pin harness. All connections were soldered and heat shrunk, including the three way junctions for battery and ground.
 
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