So I just got the LED bulbs for my front turn signals today as well as the flash relay...question has anyone done it before on the 2013? If so anything I could avoid so not to blow a fuse....I searched the forum and saw someone with the last generation rav and he blew a fuse...haven't seen one for the 2013
So interestingly enough I had to go to Toyota to pick up my registration and tag renewal. I figure I'd ask my service guy to have a Toyota tech replace my flasher relay for my led turn signals....I literally saw the tech looking for an hour and had no idea where it was. He brought two other people, laptops, schematics, etc..... Long story short he couldn't find it. Tech guy asked me bring my rav back and leave it over night....
Glad to know that it wasn't just me who couldn't find....however, would like to get this done
I thought I remembered reading on thread where it was determined that there is no relay. The turn signal is computer controlled and there is a small speaker that makes the clicking noise behind the intriment panel. But I could be wrong.
I guess the easiest thing to do is replace the bulbs and see what happens.
According to the schematic, the flasher circuit is contained within the Combination Meter Assembly, and the clicking sound comes from the 'buzzer', so no separate flasher relay that can be swapped to accommodate LEDs.
i have done this...works fine, but it will flash faster. I don't really care and think it's safer. LED's are bright, but wish there was a way to keep them the lights "on" (like when they hazard flash) and then blink when turn signals activate....
Have you heard of "switchbacks"? You can wire the always on leads of the switchbacks to DRL or side marker circuit, then blinker leads to turn signal wires. Exactly what u wanted. White 'always on' and they switch to amber when turn signals are on
The fuse blow problem is a result of the socket type for the dual filament bulbs. Most LED replacements are built for standard sockets, in which the negative terminals share a common end. Toyotas often use the CK socket, in which the negative terminals use a common base instead. For example:
CK is
+=====+
-=====-
Standard is
+=====-
+=====-
Without moving the terminals around, the low-filament or parking lights will short circuit. If you move both negatives to a common corner and the +low terminal over to the vacated location, you can get them to work properly in a CK socket.
Use a voltmeter to check your front sockets first, though. I've done this on a 4.3, but am not sure about the 4.4.
2014 Rav. I replaced the rear flashers with LEDs and no difference in the flash rate. Want to try the front now and see what happens. I have a feeling c7aea and wipaway are correct and there is no actual relay. I am having trouble finding the bulbs I want. 7444CK switchback. White parking light / amber signal. The CK style bulbs are not real common and a switchback even less.
Hi All! I am trying to wire 3 ohm load resistors (for 2 LEDs per side) to the front signals to prevent hyperflash. Since the bulb acts as parking lights as well, there are three wires. Can anyone confirm the correct wires to tap for the signal. One side has white/black, yellow, green wire. The other side is white/black, blue, green wire. I'm assuming ground is the white/black?
Perfect! Thank you again for the diagram. It was interesting how the rear signal LEDs did not need a resistor. Just the ones in the front needed it. I went with the 6ohm instead.
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