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Differential Oil and Transfer Case

67K views 25 replies 18 participants last post by  steve777 
#1 ·
2013, XLE AWD, approaching 30k

Getting closer to the 30k mark and was wanting to do some research on replacing and inspecting the diff and transfer case oils. Doing all the 30k maint at the dealer is around $275-325 where I'm at so I want to do as much of it myself as possible. Now I don't tow, but I do have a fair amount of hills (600ft in 1 mile) and stop-n-go traffic on the commute at times.

Never having had a awd or 4wd before, I'm not very familiar with changing or inspecting the transfer/diff oil. Had an old 240sx that I changed out once back a long time ago and it was fairly straightforward then but I also had the big Factory Shop manual for that car.

I've searched the forums a bit, but didn't really find anything on 4th Gen, and the maintenance says to inspect but never actually replace unless 'special conditions' but I know the fluid will need replaced at some point.

Has anyone else done this yet? Have recommendations on type/brand of oil to be used? How many miles you plan to go before drain/filling?

Just found this in the 'specs' section of the manual, so that helps some.
Oil Type: 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent

Thanks,
Charles
 
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#2 ·
Unless you drive under really extreme conditions, you don't need to replace the differential / transfer case oil 30k miles. The earliest I would consider doing it is at 60k miles.

I did replace the fluids in my FJ Cruiser at 30k miles because I did quite a lot of off-roading. Still, the fluids were perfectly clean.
 
#3 ·
It is interesting to note that there many who follow a procedure to change the initial engine oil fill on a new vehicle after a certain amount of time/mileage to wash out any shavings or grit or whatever that may accumulate as the engine wears and breaks in, but it seems that the differential and transfer case are designed by Toyota to be 'fill and forget'.

Wouldn't there be a similar wear/break in period for these items? Wouldn't you want to wash out the initial fill after a certain period elapses?
 
#4 ·
If your RAV bahaves like my 4.3 4WD, then definitely change it at 30 K miles. I find that every 40K miles works well after that.

I don't tow but do mostly city driving and 4-5 months in the snow/cold weather.

Take a peak under your RAV and if looks like the 4.3, then just go by the instructions for the 4.3 (except maybe for the torque).

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-...ear-differential-transfer-case-gear-lube.html
 
#17 ·
If your RAV bahaves like my 4.3 4WD, then definitely change it at 30 K miles. I find that every 40K miles works well after that.

I don't tow but do mostly city driving and 4-5 months in the snow/cold weather.

Take a peak under your RAV and if looks like the 4.3, then just go by the instructions for the 4.3 (except maybe for the torque).

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-...ear-differential-transfer-case-gear-lube.html
If you drive mostly city, then it makes sense diff gears work much harder than say straight hwy driving. I also changed at 30,000 miles of mixed driving and the fluids were not too bad, although rear diff was visibly darker than transfer case. Minimal metal debris on the magnets. Nothing like the Subaru where diff fluids were loaded with metal and looked like silver paint at 40,000 miles.

I also suspect the 4WD in 4.4 is mechanically just like in 4.3.
 
#5 ·
I am pretty old school with car maintenance, especially with 1st oil change. I will replace all of the oil (still trying to find the exact procedure on the transmission fluid though) for our 2014 RAV4 AWD to get the metal shavings out once it's near the 2k~3k mile mark.

Below is what I plan to do when changing the Transfer Case and Rear Axle Fluids:
1. Buy 4 OEM crush washers (all drain and fill plugs use the same size washer with Toyota part number: 12157-10010). I already bought them-LOL
2. Buy a qt. of gear lub (from the spec, both the Transfer Case and Rear Axle together will use close to 1 qt, be careful not to over fill and waste any then we may need a 2nd qt.) I would also buy the gear lub OEM (75W-85) by Toyota since Mobile-1 only offers 75W-90.
3. Get a basic fluid pump that can attach to the Gear Lub bottle.
4. Draining the fluid is very easy as long as you find the plugs (the rear axle, it's drain is on one side with the fill on the other); the torque spec for the Drain is 29-ft/lbs (39.32-Nm), the Filler plug is 28-ft/lbs (38-Nm). As for filling the transfer case and rear axle with the gear lub, plan ahead as there is not much space to pour the gear lub in, in my opinion/preparation for my task ahead this is where the pump comes in handy with the least amount of gear lub will get wasted.

Let me know if you need some pictures on locating these Drain and Fill plugs. I took a video when I was researching on these parts and locations, but the video turned out just terrible...
 
#7 ·
I have owned 4x4's for the last 14 years (all Toyota's) and I usually changed the diff fluid around 80k miles. Unless you are doing any kind of major towing or off-roading I would not change it at 30k.
 
#8 ·
Perhaps it is time for me to adjust/change my mindset about after break-in period fluid changes... Sounds like my plan to replace the Transfer Case (TC), rear axle and even the transmission fluids at around 3,000 miles are just unnecessary? No concers over the metal shavings from break-in at all?
 
#9 ·
I am old school with oil change, but I believe ppl too ;-)

My toyota dealers service manager once gave a 1hr lecture about oil and all how it progressed in last 35yrs of his experience.

His recommendation is to do oil change as mentioned and/or fuild inspection.

I don't trust service mechanic does it, so I check engine oil myself every 2k... So just check all fluids and change as required or scheduled.
 
#12 ·
#14 ·
I am trying to locate Drain and Fill plugs at Transfer case and Rear Axle but having a hard time to find them, can anybody post pictures on locating these Drain and Fill plugs if possible?

--> Mr. Rick actually helped me out and all my problem has been solved regarding differential oil plug location. Thank you, Mr. Rick!
 
#21 ·
I dunno....


I had to practically BEG my local dealership to TAKE MY MONEY and change my oil earlier than 10,000 miles... Even then, I think they look at me now like I'm a whacko because I wanted it done sooner (due to my wife's 3 mile commute).


I'd guess I'll get the same questionable looks when/if I ask to do transfer case and diff fluid sooner too.


I did it on our 2004 Saturn Vue (rear diff, not transfer case) and it was pretty straightforward. I'm not sure when or if it had been done previously but I had a lot of miles when I did it (somewhere between 80K and 100K I think).


I think there's merit to the longer change intervals with the newer lubrication technology -- but it's sometimes hard for me, the end user, to accept!
 
#22 ·
Not just you, there are many of us feeling the same way I believe that is why this and several related posts here in the rav4world as well as in all the different car forums. We, in my opinion as owners just want to protect our vehicles. Given that new mechanical metal gears/system will give extra metal shavings during initial brake-in, we just want to get the shavings out of the system...while those Service Writers at the dealer services department are only thinking in term of the free maintenance from Toyota 'while under warranty' and not for the long term keeping sake.

Per my observation of the drain/fill for the Transfer Case and rear Differential are straight forward, just be sure to use new washers and don't over torque the drain/fill plugs.
 
#23 ·
2013 RAV with 50K miles. Drained and refilled both X-fer case and Diff for the first time. In the below pic, the old X-fer fluid is on the left and old Diff fluid is on the right. Diff fluid was black as sin and the drain plug magnet had collected a lot of fine steel particles that looked like black sludge. X-fer fluid was relatively clean and drain plug magnet was also clean. Used Redline 75W-85 GL-5 to refill both gearboxes. Fairly easy job. Will definitely do them both again at 100K miles.
 

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