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2003 Toyota RAV4 air fuel sensor location

70K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  earthrealm 
G
#1 ·
Gents, I've read numerous threads on RAV4 air fuel sensors, but the one question I still have is where is it located?

I/we replaced an O2 sensor near the bottom on the engine on the driver side, but we still get an air fuel sensor error message (P1135) but the manual doesn't tell you where it is. Is it one of the upper sensors? If so, which side, driver? passenger?

I've even seen drawings that show it in front of the catalytic converter, but there isn't one there, they're all up front.

So, of the four sensors up front, and with the bottom 2 being O2 sensors, which of the two upper are the air fuel sensor?

Thanks. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Chuck
 
G
#3 ·
The Drifter said:
P1135 = A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

Thats going to be the top sensor on the RIGHT SIDE, FACING THE ENGINE from the front.
thank you so much. I even bought a Haynes Book and they show contradictory information regarding the O2 sensor and the air fuel sensor within a few pages of each being discussed.

One more question: can I use a universal sensor or does it have to be from Toyota?
Thank you thank you. You don't know how tough this has been to figure out.

Chuck
 
G
#5 ·
The Drifter said:
Well you could use an aftermarket sensor, but being a toyota tech, I cant just say go right ahead :lol:
Drifter, thanks. I called around and did more web research and it has sounded to me like the air fuel sensor is different than the O2 sensor? I found Bosch and Densor sensors and I thought O2 was different from the air fuel sensor?

Or are they all truly the same? I called a Toyota Dealership and the guy said "I've seen people put in the other (universal) sensors and they've come back with problems. I believe you, but I'm still not sure what to order?

HEre's what I find on the web.

Bosch Air Fuel Ratio Sensor - 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 4WD/4-Door 1AZFE
Other products by Bosch
No customer reviews yet. Be the first.
List Price: $279.97
Price: $187.90
You Save: $92.07 (33%)
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by AutoPartsWAY.

Product Features

* RIGHT/UPPER SIDE OF CAT
* 1 YEAR WARRANTY


IF it's not this, then what is it? Is it just another O2 sensor like the one we replaced on the lower right hand side of the engine as you face it? We replaced that one to get rid of the O2 sensor error.

Thanks...I won't ask any more questions. :))) I appreciate your help.
 
#6 ·
NO NO NO they are not the same. O2 Sensor are what they call "Narrow Band" sensors, while an oxygen sensor is a "Wide Band" sensor. while the both serve essentially the same purpose, they both send completely different signals (and O2 sensor having a "Narrow band" of sensing range, while an A/F has a "Wide band" sensing range, much larger than an O2.). and to top that off, the wiring for either of them is completely different. While it is possible to wire one in place of the other, it wouldnt be "plug and play."
 
G
#7 ·
Ok, thank you. I think part of my confusion was in thinking that the universal sensors all were in the $65 range while the air fuel sensor might in fact be $200 even though it's not a Toyota part. A Toyota part might be $300 or more is my guess so it's not unreasonable to expect it to be $200.

See, I kept thinking well if I can use any sensor then they'll all be around $65. But when I go to O'Reilly's Parts there is no such animal. The only option is a $200 sensor that is in fact called an air fuel sensor.

We'll get the Bank 1 Sensor 1 part today!

thanks again Drifter.
 
#8 ·
The Drifter said:
NO NO NO they are not the same. O2 Sensor are what they call "Narrow Band" sensors, while an oxygen sensor is a "Wide Band" sensor. while the both serve essentially the same purpose, they both send completely different signals (and O2 sensor having a "Narrow band" of sensing range, while an A/F has a "Wide band" sensing range, much larger than an O2.). and to top that off, the wiring for either of them is completely different. While it is possible to wire one in place of the other, it wouldnt be "plug and play."
EDIT:O2 Sensor are what they call "Narrow Band" sensors, while an air/fuel sensor is a "Wide Band" sensor.

haha, sorry about that. and im glad you got it all figured out, good luck :thumbs_up:
 
#9 ·
P1135 - Manufacturer controlled air / fuel metering

Just got code P1135 (sensor 1 - bank 1) the other day on my wives 2003 RAV 4. Total cost at the dealership was $365. It took them 2-hours to replace it. Glad I did not attempt it myself. The only thing that concerns me is that it went bad @ 73K miles. Is that the normal life span for the A/F sensor?
 
#10 ·
I just replaced a Air/Fuel sensor ( Bank-1 / Sensor-2 ~ Code P1155 ) @ 42Kmi.s There doesn't seem to be any pattern as to why or when they crap-out. The aftermarket part Denso, needed a thread adapter and wire splicing, and was $285, and I couldn't find out which sensor was which, and I did not like the sound of aftermarket mods entailed, so I went to the stealership. About $375., but it was done right... I assume, and guarantied. They even washed the car.
I believe Bank-1 / Sensor-2 is top/left, facing the engine. (on exhaust manifold)
 
#12 ·
Conrad_Turbo said:
Air/Fuel, O2 and oxygen sensor are the same thing, it measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream which allows the ECU to determine the air/fuel ratio. There are two types, a narrow band (0-1v output) and a wideband (0-5v output), the wideband being more accurate.
You are partially right, but the sensors are NOT the same. An O2 sensor only measures the amount of oxygen found in the exhaust flowing past the sensor, while an A/F sensor actually measures the ratio of air to fuel flowing past the sensor. They operate differently, they are designed differently using different materials, and you cant substitute one for the other (especially not in a Toyota).

Pretty much all O2 sensors are narrow band, since they are so much more basic and only measure oxygen. All A/F sensors are wide band (hence why most aftermarket tuners call them "wideband sensors") because, as you said, they measure more accurately. The voltage output of a wideband sensor is directly dependent on the ratio of oxygen to fuel, not just on the amount of oxygen.

The ECM does use both of these sensors to calculate the needed air/fuel ratio, but dont pool them together in saying that they are both the same sensors. (And even then, the engine does not rely directly on these sensors to calculate the A/F ratio. In a Toyota, these sensors are used more to monitor the efficiency of the engine more than anything else.)
 
#13 ·
Hi,

I need some help with regards to the my 2003 Rav4. I recently got a check engine light on and got it diagnosed at Auto Zone and the code it showed was P 1135 ( bank 1 sensor 1) and it says probable cause was open or short circuit condition or poor electrical connection.

I was wondering if I need to buy a new sensor and get it replaced or do I need to check for any electrical connection. One friend of mine had inspected the wires and said that the connections look good but I wasn't sure if I need to buy one and get it replaced.

I am broke grad student and don't wanna spend a lot of money going to a dealer. Can someone help me with this....please. Also can someone tell me which sensor has gone wrong. I read the previous posts on this thread and was more confused about which sensor that needs to be replaced.

I greatly appreciate any comments or feedback on this..

thanks
 
#14 ·
Check Engine Light Again

Just had (Code#P1155) air fuel sensor replaced about one month ago.Tests found Bank2 Sensor Position 1. Air Fuel sensor has internal fault. I had it fixed and the check engine light went off, but now the check engine light has gone back on. Can it be the same thing again?


Any feed back would be greatly appreciated, I am taking the car back to the mechanic that fixed it the first time, but being a woman , I'm afraid of being taken advantage of.... help anyone :(

How long can I keep driving with the check engine light? money is tight.
 
#15 ·
the p1155 code, if left unattended to, makes ur car use more fuel, in the long run, its cheaper to change it.it costs abt $115 on amazon and abt $121 on rockautos, last time i checked........it best u change it.if u have any friend that is handy with tools, he can change it in about 20mins flats.its best done when the engine is warm so as not to strip the threads [wch will make the ops very expensive].

u will need an oxygen sensor socket, wch u can also get for abt $5 on amazon, if u want to do it at home

nb:did the mechanic change the sensor, or he just reset the check engine light?
 
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