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#1 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 03:37 AM
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New Timing Belt & Water Pump..... Now wont start

Hello all, I'm new here; glad to be a part of the community..... Hope I'm posting in the right section.

First off my water pump was starting to leak. Took it in to a repair shop and had them replace the water pump and also the timing belt since they were in there anyways.....

picked it up; paid them their $600 and drove away..... all seemed well..... car ran fine and no more leaking! Drove it the next day to the grocery store (maybe 20 mi. round trip)..... again; all seemed well.....

Next day my girlfriend got in to go to work, turns the key and NOTHING. No clicks, no turnig of the motor, nothing....

i got home and tried it..... noticing the dome light came on when i opened the door and the seat belt indicator dash light was on.... turn the key and NOTHING..... dome light went out and so did the seat belt light. : (

Now frustrated I had a close look at the engine area, grabbed my volt meter and jumper cables.....
checked the batt. voltage with the engine off it read 13.9 then fluctuated to 15.3 then jumped to 19.8 then just "1" on the meter (keep in mind the engine was off)

Noticed my positive batt. cable was on, but loose. I also noticed the plastic tube that covers the alternator wiring had been cut (NOT the wires, just the black plastic cover/coping). I assume the shop did this to get extra slack in the wires to move the alternator out of the way while changing the water pump. Whatever.....

So i then jumpstart the car and it starts. i immediately notice the clock is at 12:00 and hear static on the radio (station pre-sets cleared)

Also after jumpstarting there are NO "service engine" or "batt./charge" lights lit on the dash.

let it run 10 minutes, shut it off; try restarting and NOTHING.....dome light goes out (door was open at the time i turned the key) and the seat belt light on the dash went out as well

I am at a loss at what this could be...... The car had no problem starting before i took it in for the water pump/timing belt work and ran fine the first day i drove it after getting it back.....

I presume it was timed correctly because it runs fine once started.....
The battery, alternator, and starter have never given me any problems either.....

my one thought, observation, worry is how i noticed the clock and radio lost their presets..... this was not like this when i picked it up..... leading me to wonder whether the repair shop left the batt. connected when they removed the alternator and possibly shorted/surged something......

any of this sound possible, do you think i'm on the right track; any advice ?
Maybe its just a shoddy battery, but i find it odd that it would act up all of a sudden after getting it back from a shop......

Thanks for your time; any help appreciated

2000 Rav4 2.0L auto
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#2 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 06:22 AM
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Jump it again and use volt meter on battery clamps, speed up motor and see if voltage increases. If it does you know alt is ok.
I wonder if shop left cable loose and alt could not charge battery and driving 2 days ran battery down. You can also go to parts store and have battery tested.
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#3 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 09:33 AM
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Re: New Timing Belt & Water Pump..... Now wont start

Quote:
Originally Posted by macrosaga
Now frustrated I had a close look at the engine area, grabbed my volt meter and jumper cables.....
checked the batt. voltage with the engine off it read 13.9 then fluctuated to 15.3 then jumped to 19.8 then just "1" on the meter (keep in mind the engine was off)
A car battery that is not being charged by a running engine won't have those voltages at the battery. If you saw those voltages with the engine off and with the battery not connected with jumper cables to a car with a running engine (or a charger), then your voltmeter is defective. While if a lead-acid battery might have 13.9 volts as a surface charge shortly after charging, and maybe 15 volts during a heavier than normal charging, you are not going to see the voltage go from 13.9 up to 15.3 after charging is removed.

This is not to say that the rest of your observations don't indicate an additional problem. The repair shop could have used a small battery to maintain presets during service while the battery itself was disconnected.

Batteries normally don't give problems until they do give problems. Batteries are fairly cheap. Testing is easy. Many auto parts stores will test your battery free.

So I think your action items are to get a new voltmeter, and test your battery under load. If the charged battery tests good, but the battery runs down after sitting overnight, then there could be a load (light etc) drawing power when it should not. I am thinking that a loose battery cable and a bad voltmeter might explain things.
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#4 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 04:09 PM
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I have had exactly that happen to me:

It PROBABLY is just a loose or corroded battery post terminal. Just being lose will cause exactly that (personal experience)

Take them off, clean them up, replace if necessary and install tight.

I am pretty sure that'll take care of the problem. Happened to me about a month ago

Kurt

Bored throttle body, Ram Air Intake, 2.5" dia. exhaust, DynoMax muffler, Thrush resonator, 9005 low beams... + more
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 04:57 PM
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thanks everyone for the quick replies! Took the Rav back the shop with my list of observations. Main thing being how the positive cable was loose on the terminal while the securing cable nut was tight..... cable end also being gauged (as if someone pryed it up with a screwdriver rather than loosening the nut).

The shop changed the cable end for free and it appears to have fixed the no start issue.

Hopefully it will hold up! I guess I will find out.

Thanks again for the replies!

2000 Rav4 2.0L auto
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macrosaga
thanks everyone for the quick replies! Took the Rav back the shop with my list of observations. Main thing being how the positive cable was loose on the terminal while the securing cable nut was tight..... cable end also being gauged (as if someone pryed it up with a screwdriver rather than loosening the nut).

The shop changed the cable end for free and it appears to have fixed the no start issue.

Hopefully it will hold up! I guess I will find out.

Thanks again for the replies!

What did I say.....

That's EXACTLY what happened to me.


You'll be fine from now on, glad it wasn't anything major

Kurt

Bored throttle body, Ram Air Intake, 2.5" dia. exhaust, DynoMax muffler, Thrush resonator, 9005 low beams... + more
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