The complete Solution for EGR system in RAV4 4-Door 4WD(3S-FE)

[metrocube]

Thanks for this. In my case, it was my modulator that had gone bad, and I cleared the CEL by replacing the modulator with a new one.

[hoops]

SUV Lover, at the beginning of this thread you posted:

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Disconnect the hoses form the modulator and label them. Block P and R and blow Air into Q.


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Air should flow to P and R and should feel it.

Run the engine and with a helper keep the RPM at 2500.


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Blow air into Q, air shouldn’t pass through (that means that the EGR system is working and it applies some vacuum on Q to open the EGR a little bit)
>>if either of these functions doesn’t work, replace the modulator.
EGR valve operation with VSV:
Using a 3-way connector, connect a vacuum gauge betn. EGR valve and VSV.
Start the engine and check that the engine starts and run at idle.
Using SST connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC(diagnosis labeled box in the engine compartment)
>>Engine is Idle, cold and at 2500 r.p.m, Gauge should show 0 vacuum.
>>Engine is idle, hot and at 2500 r.p.m, gauge should show some low vacuum reading.
(If not so the VSV –EGR valve operation is not working).


I did the first modular test by plugging the R and D holes and then connected a short hose to Q and blew air through the hose. What happened was I blew very hard through the hose connected to Q and a very slow stream of air was coming out of the filter. In other words, it took a lot of blowing pressure for the air to come out.

Hoping you've done this test, did you use a compressor to blow the air through the modulator Q or did you do it like me?

I'm asking this because it seems like compressed air would be too much and might even damage something and if that's the case them my blowing through the hose shows the modulator is restricting the flow, which I assume means the modulator is defective.

What say you?

Thanks.