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#11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 02:35 AM
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Thanks for this. In my case, it was my modulator that had gone bad, and I cleared the CEL by replacing the modulator with a new one.
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#12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:59 PM
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SUV Lover, at the beginning of this thread you posted:

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Disconnect the hoses form the modulator and label them. Block P and R and blow Air into Q.


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Air should flow to P and R and should feel it.

Run the engine and with a helper keep the RPM at 2500.


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Blow air into Q, air shouldn’t pass through (that means that the EGR system is working and it applies some vacuum on Q to open the EGR a little bit)
>>if either of these functions doesn’t work, replace the modulator.
EGR valve operation with VSV:
Using a 3-way connector, connect a vacuum gauge betn. EGR valve and VSV.
Start the engine and check that the engine starts and run at idle.
Using SST connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC(diagnosis labeled box in the engine compartment)
>>Engine is Idle, cold and at 2500 r.p.m, Gauge should show 0 vacuum.
>>Engine is idle, hot and at 2500 r.p.m, gauge should show some low vacuum reading.
(If not so the VSV –EGR valve operation is not working).



I did the first modular test by plugging the R and D holes and then connected a short hose to Q and blew air through the hose. What happened was I blew very hard through the hose connected to Q and a very slow stream of air was coming out of the filter. In other words, it took a lot of blowing pressure for the air to come out.

Hoping you've done this test, did you use a compressor to blow the air through the modulator Q or did you do it like me?

I'm asking this because it seems like compressed air would be too much and might even damage something and if that's the case them my blowing through the hose shows the modulator is restricting the flow, which I assume means the modulator is defective.

What say you?

Thanks.
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#13 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 02:14 PM
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Dont use compressed air......that's too much....if the air flows means Modulator is defective if not or there is so much resistance ....it means it's working
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#14 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 05:37 PM
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I've done this repair on my previous 99 4wd auto base model and although it was pretty finicky getting at it through the passenger wheel well it was not all that difficult with a 12mm deep socket, swivel joint and a couple extensions to a ratchet out in the wheel well.
Now I have a 97 4wd manual with ac, etc, and there are so many parts in there that I can't even see the VSV through the wheel well and there's no way I'm getting my arm in through there. My question is how is this repair done on a 4wd manual Rav? Will I need to remove the intake manifold so I can access the VSV from above? I just need to get my hands on the electrical connector and hoses so I can connect a new VSV and relocate it somewhere more accessible.

Many thanks!

Tim
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#15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 11:37 AM
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i am going to tackle this issue on our rav tomorrow. im going to start by giving the EGR system a thorough cleaning, reset the codes, see how it goes.

this rav sat for 2 years before i inherited it. i flushed everything when i got it, sans brake fluids and transmission fluids (its a 2wd 4cyl 2k rav4). car runs like a champ minus the CEL that came on about 8 months ago (i know i know...).

the ONLY code thrown is p0401. ive seen a few youtube vids. this one made the most sense to me:
" title="RAV4 P0401 EGR Diagnosis - YouTube" target="_blank">RAV4 P0401 EGR Diagnosis - YouTube

there are only 3 things short of the VSV that causes this: the EGR, EGR lines, or another part thats NOT the VSV and on the top part of the engine.

if those 3 check out, its the VSV. id rather not tackle the VSV if i can help it, since im a big, tall guy and my meaty hands would have issues getting in there.

my question is: what fluid can i use to clean out the EGR valves / vacuum lines and not damage parts?

1994 Volvo 850 - daily
2000 toyota rav4 - project
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#16 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 03:04 AM
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Troubleshooting EGR problems

I've followed the steps outlined by Compact SUV Lover and found the following:

1) The vacuum modulator filter is clean.

2) With the engine off, when blowing air into port Q of the vacuum modulator, air comes out R but not P.

3) With the engine running at 2,500 rpm, air passes from Q to R, but not P.

4) Per this procedure: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf (page 7) I ran the engine at 2,500 rpm and connected port R to manifold vacuum. The engine continued to run smooth.

5) With the engine idling, I applied manifold vacuum to the EGR valve -- I heard a click from the valve, and the engine died.

#5 indicates that the EGR valve is good.

#2 thru #4 indicate that the vacuum modulator is bad.

From the posts I read, I really expected to find the VSV bad.

I'm planning to replace the vacuum modulator, but hoping it is a returnable part -- just in case.

Question -- what is the quickest way to determine whether a repair (replacing the vacuum modulator in this case) solved the problem?

We need to have the RAV emissions tested by November 27.

Thanks.

Last edited by sajohnson; 11-20-2013 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Typo
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#17 (permalink) Old 11-23-2013, 03:27 AM
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Well, I replaced the vacuum modulator and the CEL did not turn on right away (no surprise) but today it did.

Now I'm wondering if the old modulator was/is good (even though it failed several tests) or if it was bad but there's more than one problem.

Another slim possibility is that the new modulator is bad (I haven't tested it yet).

I'm thinking it's time to break down and buy a scanner/code reader. So far, the Launch CRP123 and 129 look good.

Any suggestions?
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#18 (permalink) Old 12-05-2013, 01:30 PM
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Using SST connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC(diagnosis labeled box in the engine compartment)
>>Engine is Idle, cold and at 2500 r.p.m, Gauge should show 0 vacuum.
>>Engine is idle, hot and at 2500 r.p.m, gauge should show some low vacuum reading.
(If not so the VSV –EGR valve operation is not working)

I would think while the pins TE1 and E1 are jumped the guage should show vacuum. Isnt that the reason why you would jump them in the first place so you can manually actuate the vsv at any engine temp for testing reasons??
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#19 (permalink) Old 11-11-2014, 04:37 AM
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What should the Ohm readings be for a good VSV? I have looked around online but have not been able to find a solid answer. The reading I was able to get off of mine was about 47ohms. Is that sort of resistance okay? Thanks.

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