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#1 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 12:28 PM
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Power steering belt

Steering is a bit lumpy for the first couple of minutes from cold,then its fine.I suspect the belt is slipping a bit on fast idle on start up.(fluid changed a while back)

Had a quick look this morning ,looks a bit tight for space(getting at the 2 bolts etc),any tips on changing the belt please. (i will do both as the alternator belts needs to come off anyway)....Thanks

1998 Rav4 Freesport AWD 3 door
2004 MR2 Roadster 1.8 vvti (Spyder) 28000miles
2003 Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6 "Zetec S"
1995 Ford Probe 16v
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 02:03 PM
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Just did both of mine, the alternator/aircon pump is straight forward, you'll see the adjuster etc from under the bonnet. Slacken off the adjuster and the pivot bolt and drop the belt down.
Before you get under the car to do the power steering belt, put the steering on full lock, if the belt is slipping you'll certainly hear it then.
To change it, remove the cover under the car on the pulley side, hope you have had it off before as the bolts (10mm) usually snap due to rust, then remove the alternator belt.
You'll need a couple of ring spanners to get at the power steering belt adjuster and a drop of WD40 or penetrating fluid!!
I could not get enough leverage on one spanner so I locked the other on the open end-end, efectively doubling the length and the bolt came undone easily. Then undo the pivot bolt, its the top bolt of the two and swivel the pump down so you can just about get the old belt off. It's tight, mind your knuckles!
When I put the new one on I used a length of wood to push the pump back up and tension the belt, the whole thing is quite stiff and it held while I tightened the bolts up again.
Should take about 30 mins to do both if all your bolts undo ok,
Good luck!
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 05:49 PM
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Thanks Ken....i was thinking the process was something like that,i'll give it a go soon.....the p/s belt feels very soft and spongy,i think its been there a long time.

Luckily i replaced all the bottom cover bolts with stainless steel bolts and washers (and grease)....and drilled out and re tapped the broken ones.

1998 Rav4 Freesport AWD 3 door
2004 MR2 Roadster 1.8 vvti (Spyder) 28000miles
2003 Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6 "Zetec S"
1995 Ford Probe 16v
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 01:26 PM
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Thanks Ken for the information as I'm also thinking of renewing the power steering pump belt. On my 1999 RAV4, there's an intermittent squeal on full lock which I assume is the belt slipping rather than a failure in the pump or the steering rack. I tried squirting belt conditioner onto the belt but it's very difficult to get there even with a long nozzle.

The bolts holding the plastic pans are part no. 90119-06355 (bolt, w/washer). I got 14 from Toyota as I've already sheared some when taking off the left side pan to do a transaxle oil change.
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 03:38 PM
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Sounds like it is the belt, I changed mine as it was the original and did not want it to snap on me, when I fitted the new one I ran the engine and put it on full lock and it slipped, you really have to tension it quite hard to get it right and of course you can't get your hands in there too easily to check the tension either!
Push it as hard as you can with a length of wood and 'nip' up the bolts, the check it
Good luck and thanks for the numbers, by the way, your car and Brox's look good..... what a coinsidence!
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-30-2012, 07:45 AM
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It cost me approx £3 to replace the under cover tray bolts with stainless steel allen head M6 X 25mm bolts and washers along with a good covering of grease on each....its a nice tidy looking job,the covers were mostly held on with cable ties before i got it.

1998 Rav4 Freesport AWD 3 door
2004 MR2 Roadster 1.8 vvti (Spyder) 28000miles
2003 Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6 "Zetec S"
1995 Ford Probe 16v
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#7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 02:52 PM
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All done...not too bad,wouldn't want to do it too often though.

1998 Rav4 Freesport AWD 3 door
2004 MR2 Roadster 1.8 vvti (Spyder) 28000miles
2003 Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6 "Zetec S"
1995 Ford Probe 16v
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 03:21 PM
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Im in the process of acquiring a 99 w/A/C and have been told by a shop the belts are not for long.dry rot i was told...its got 124K on it..what tools specifically are required to do this change as Im gonna have to buy tools when I get to the place Im getting the car from..its an 1800 mile or so drive home...mostly freeway too...
I dont wanna get stuck in the middle of nowhere and not be able to replace one or both if needed...



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#9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 03:40 PM
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Garage
Holy smitherines.
1800 miles travel to get a car... Also in bad condition (dry rot on the power steering belt? The car has to be in poor condition to get that).
Why oh why would you do THAT?
Greetz

Pim

Driving a BMW318i with LPG at the moment. Had a 2.0 RAV4.1 1997 3drs 4WD euro model w/ABS dual sunroof blue two tone previously.
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 05:23 PM
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Thats what the shop says...could be them just trying to get some business from me...it wouldnt be the first time thats happened...
The price is fair and its all contigent on my final okay once I do see it for myself...but given Ive seen these belts go for alot longer then that...Im just thinking for emergency purposes...if they arent used during the trip...they will go back to the store...
I once drove a bit further to look at another car(which I didnt get) years ago...drove down in my 84 Celica...all was fine till about 1/3 way down...started pushing water bigtime...LOL...I kept going the rest of the way down and back...head gasket had let go....at least the water jacket portion did...power was fine...so Im pretty confident in Toyotas :-)


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