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#1 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 07:35 PM
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Jack stand pads

As many of you may know, jack stands do not work well with the lift points on the Rav4. The lift points are crimped sheet metal, and the stands are designed to work with an axle or a frame rail. So whenever I lift my Rav4 off the ground, it sits precariously on the jack stands, and after a few years of doing this, the lift points have become bent. I can fix the sheet metal, but I still want a better way to lift my Rav4.

There must be some sort of rubber or urethane pad that goes on top of the jack stand to support the crimped edge of the body panels. I know they make these things for post lifts, but I have not been able to find such a thing for jacks or jack stands.

Anybody?

2010 Green Tacoma DC V6 4WD 6-SPD TRD Off-Road
Former 2001 Black Rav4 4WD w/ 5-speed manual, 172+ miles
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 09:23 PM
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Pretty sure the manual list some points to use for jackstands and other jacks
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 10:01 PM
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Jeff,

I have 4 stands and I don’t like to scratch the hell out of the frame rail, especially since they salt the roads up here. One day I was in a hurry so I simply cut pieces of industrial rubber flooring tile and electrical taped them to the stand face. You can cut old bike tires if you want and attached them more securely.

As for the jacks, I have 2 standard hand hydraulic type placed on the rear diff and one on the Front Cross Member. I think I had seen more expensive jacks a reverse cup shaped pad in the center top.

The only issue I have is placement of the 2 rear Stands for the Rails are not accessible there so I have to find 2 different points many times.

I am guessing your are about to do the yearly tire change

Cheers, Walt
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAID
Pretty sure the manual list some points to use for jackstands and other jacks
For those of you who do not enjoy the luxury of having factory service manuals like I do, I scanned in the pages referencing lift points.





Lifting it up with the jack is not the hard part, it's getting it to sit safely on four jack stands that is a pain, even on flat pavement. My stands do not have the groove in the middle, so I might try to find some that do. I thought about using a block of wood, but I figured it would break. I would try to find other points on the underside to place the jacks, but I am not sure what parts are strong enough, and the jack stands don't like to stay put on the suspension bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by waltrav
I am guessing your are about to do the yearly tire change
Not time for that yet - actually I need to replace the front right brake caliper and bleed the brake lines, which obviously requires the 4 wheels to be off (ask me how I know).

I like the rubber idea, but I am looking not so much to pad the pinch welds from scratching, but to keep them from folding over under the weight and causing the vehicle to shift on the jack stands.

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Former 2001 Black Rav4 4WD w/ 5-speed manual, 172+ miles
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff

Not time for that yet - actually I need to replace the front right brake caliper and bleed the brake lines, which obviously requires the 4 wheels to be off (ask me how I know).
I've heard that calipers or wheel cylinders should be replaced or rebulit in pairs.
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#6 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006, 05:29 AM
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Jeff I don't use the 4 lift points that Toyota recomends. My stands fit well around the the frame on the front. The rear is another story because the frame is inaccessable.
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#7 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 01:36 PM
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[quote="Jeff"]
Quote:
Originally Posted by WAID
Pretty sure the manual list some points to use for jackstands and other jacks

Lifting it up with the jack is not the hard part, it's getting it to sit safely on four jack stands that is a pain, even on flat pavement. My stands do not have the groove in the middle, so I might try to find some that do. I thought about using a block of wood, but I figured it would break. I would try to find other points on the underside to place the jacks, but I am not sure what parts are strong enough, and the jack stands don't like to stay put on the suspension bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by waltrav
I am guessing your are about to do the yearly tire change
I just had my 4 wheels changed to studded new winter wheels at a smallish (cheapish!) garage here and he lifted the rav with a very odd systen that resembles your second figure. It consisted of a pair of floor plates that could be placed on either side of RAV between the front and rear wheel. He placed a long flat and thick foam - rubber like cushion on it and raised the floor plate hydraulically. The floor plate with the cushion lifted and raised the edge of the RAV's body. The car was suspended on two edges so to say. The front part (engine) being heavier the car leans slightly forward but was stable enough.
Perhaps using two jack stands on each side with a plank of wood in between and a rubber cushion on top of the plank would work in a similar manner. Pity, I did not take a picture of his system
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2008, 10:35 AM
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Excuse me for reviving an old thread, but it seemed a good place to start with my inquiries, since it has all the background info and diagrams already.

I am trying to figure out a quick and easy way to jack the car for the 5000K tire rotations. I'd like to use my floor jack to jack it up one side at a time so I can do both tires at a time. With previous cars I have been able to make up an adaptor out or scraps of wood and rubber to go on my jack to I could do this easily without damaging the car. However, the Rav4 sill has a very deep flange sticking down and apparently needs some sort of a block which is relieved to clear the flange. I assume this means that the bottom of the body on both sides of the flange, and not the flange itself is supposed to take the load?

The Toyota diagram earlier in this thread for the car on a lift seems to show two rubber (gum?) blocks instead of the slotted blocks shown for the jack stands.
My assumption is that these blocks go on the inside of the flanges and not under them, but it is hard to say for sure from the diagram. This would also be further evidence that it is the bottom of the body not the flanges that should take the load.

Any guesses on whether the two jack points shown on each end of the sill are specially reinforced to take the jack, or whether the jack can (with a suitable slotted or rubber block) be safely used anywhere along the sill?
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#9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 05:39 PM
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Hello Kyle- I just found this thread while dealing with a similar issue- using my jack and jack stands for a front brake job.

I believe these links may help you: (all links safe as per McAfee and AVG site advisors)
Eastwood adapter
ToyotaNation forum
Jackstand adapter
Jack pad rubber-coated steel
Jack pad rubber
(first link came from forum in second link)

In another thread, someone had to drill a hole in his floor jack to accept the Eastwood adapter. Not sure if this would compromise the strength of the jack support area.

I think putting the weight of the car on the flanges/pinch weld is asking for bent flanges and a poorly supported car- I believe the pads on the lift in the service manual are meant to seat just inside the flange, but you're right- it's hard to tell.

not sure I understand your question about the sill- I don't know, but I've never seen two tires at once jacked just from the center of the sill with a single jack point- it sounds risky/tippy- however, maybe your floor jack has two contact points, like the one in the service manual.

Also, not sure what kind of tire rotation you are doing that jacking up one side at a time will help- Tire rotation patterns

Also, my all-season Yokohama tires rated for 60K on my AWD RAV now need replacing after 10K more miles than that- all four are worn quite evenly and I only rotated once (but do check tire pressure a couple of times a year). A matter of debate on whether rotation is worth it...Is tire rotation worth it?

Back to the jacking issue: my owner's manual says to use the OEM scissors jack for tire changes under the "front suspension arm rear mounting" and for the rear tires under the "rear suspension arm".

To do my front brake job, I put my hydraulic floor jack under the center of the crossmember (as on diagram in previous post)- there is an indentation in the crossmember there that did not allow a great fit with my jack contact plate- it worked ok, but I will buy a flat adapter (last two links above) or use 1/4" steel plate at this point next time. I lifted from here to raise both front tires just enough to place my jack stands under the front suspension arm rear mountings- my jack stand contact area happened to fit perfectly to these mountings- then lowered car gently onto stands until floor jack was free, but then rose floor jack to just contact crossmember just snug as a safety. Also put removed tires behind jackstands under frame as a second safety. Car seemed very secure (3/4" plywood under jackstands in dirt driveway)- not sure I would yarn on rusted bolts under the car this way...but that's a whole other debate...definitely secure enough for brake job though. According to the service manual diagram above, the suspension arms may be only appropriate for jacking and not jack stands- however, until I order the slotted or deeply grooved adapters for my stands, what I did seemed my only choice...

I am going to try my nice area dealership and writing Toyota re the discrepancy of the jack points from my owner's manual and the service manual above, and also where to get those perfect jack stand pads pictured in the manual- will post if I find anything.

In the meantime, perhaps the Eastwood adapter will work for your floor jack...

I hope there is something here that helps...
 
#10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 01:35 AM
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Just a suggestion...I haven't lifted my RAV4 yet, but on other cars I've had that had oddly shaped or otherwise inconvenient jack points, I've had success using an ice hockey puck as a jack pad. They are made of vulcanized rubber that is very tough, yet has just enough give to conform to and grip the upper and lower surfaces when the weight of the car is placed on it (as long as it's not too cold). And, they shouldn't run you more than $2.
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