Engine Starts But No Instrument Lights and Can't Shift Out of Park

[boilerup84]

Hi,

I just replaced the alternator in my 2005 Rav4 4wd and I can start the car but the tach doesn't work, none of the instrument panel lights work, radio doesn't work and I can't shift the car out of park. I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and they all look fine. The headlights work, the dome light works, the ABS light works on the dash. My car beeps when I click unlock on my key fob but nothing happens when I click lock.

Anyone have an answer?

Thanks in advance!

[WJBertrand]

Sounds like you might have blown a couple fuses. There may be more fuses under the dash. Check in particular if your brake lights are working. If not you probably blew that fuse, which also usually illuminates the dash as well. Unless the safety lockout on the transmission senses brake light voltage it will not allow shifting out of park.

[boilerup84]

I checked all of the fuses (engine compartment and under dash) and I'm still having the same issues.

Originally Posted by WJBertrand

Sounds like you might have blown a couple fuses. There may be more fuses under the dash. Check in particular if your brake lights are working. If not you probably blew that fuse, which also usually illuminates the dash as well. Unless the safety lockout on the transmission senses brake light voltage it will not allow shifting out of park.

[earthrealm]

might be ecm related...do you hv a spare ecm to try out with?

[jinks]

This just happened to me. Does anyone have advice?

Hi,

I just replaced the alternator in my 2005 Rav4 4wd and I can start the car but the tach doesn't work, none of the instrument panel lights work, radio doesn't work and I can't shift the car out of park. I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and they all look fine. The headlights work, the dome light works, the ABS light works on the dash. My car beeps when I click unlock on my key fob but nothing happens when I click lock.

Anyone have an answer?

Thanks in advance!

[ARK]

jinks, describe exactly how you removed then replaced the alternator, because if you shorted out the battery lead all kinds of troubles could face you. Did you start off by removing the battery completely both + and - leads, wait a minute then test for any voltage on these leads to ground and each other, then with 0 zero voltage work on the alternator.

[WJBertrand]

Did you check the big 100+ amp fusible links?

[jinks]

Thanks for the response. I picked up the fusible link advice from another blog. The link had a blown leg and a new one is arriving today. I hope this is the only issue I find, as the previous blogger pointed out the battery was not disconnected during repair work and it did short out. Ill post an update once the part is installed.

[WJBertrand]

I had all those symptoms with my daughter's car and it turned out to be the 100A fusible link, replacing it cured all the problems. I did find a couple of collateral damaged fuses IGN and Radio and a small center console light also burnt out.

Evidently she had left the lights on and her "Einstein" boyfriend at the time connected the jumper cables backward - bloowie!

[jinks]

Replacing the fusible link (the black box at the positive battery terminal) fixed all my issues. $50 dealer only part #8262042040. I'm glad to know the fusible link was doing its job. Protecting the major ticket items from dumb ass attacks. Thanks for the advise. Hope others can use the information.