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mensajero, spills the beans, all mods secrets and all.

13K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  mensajero 
#1 · (Edited)
OK, I’ve been receiving a lot of PM asking me this and that. Here is a run down of all the mods and secrets so you can run with the big boy on the expressway. Always use your seat belt, tight.All add to it as I can remember and check for links. No, I don't get any kick backs.



Base on the terrain you have described. You’re kind of a Pro Rally enthusiastic. Fast driven gravel running cars. I’m more of a road racer. Then again, there are still some parts, pricey though. Turbo is still an option, but to have fun and run with the big boys, you don’t need much to surprise a lot of people. Believe me that can be achieved with the 3SFE engine and chassis. Ok, I’m just going to give you the tips that I’ve used. Man, they work. Here we go
Intake, I’ve tried them all, and the best bang for the buck is the Apollo K&N filter. No doubt about it, more on this later. Get rid of all those black boxes. But keep the base OEM parts like the sensors. You will use those for fuel management.

Exhaust, a must have. As recently and last week, I installed an OBX header. NO NOT USE THE PACESSETTER. You MUST use both O2 sensors. Trust me on this one. Pipes size? Use 2.25” diameter with mandrel bents. In high great you will hear that engine scream and giving you awesome power, when you’re going by a BMW (that is no typo “BMW”). If you go turbo, use 3”. Get rid of the Catalytic Converter and get a PERFORMANCE CC. Still, 2.25”. Muffler, I got two Magnaflow mufflers. Nice and quiet and stealthy. Neat tip, ground the muffler system. Yes, you read clearly, ground the muffler with metal straps. ;) DEI the entire exaust system.




Ground the entire engine bay. Download this from the forum Derek Ground and Derek Ground Kit 2. Neat, cheap and excellent power with a very efficient electrical system.
This is a very efficient kit, It a Pivot Raizin Voltage Stabilizer + Supplementary Earth. I’ve installed it some year ago and its work great. You will notice the difference in your electrical system. No, I don’t get any kick backs from my recommendations. I have used them and they worked.
Helix throttles body spacer. Google it, it’s cheap, around 40.00 and it will help your intake.
If you have the 3SFE engine, do the Nology Hot Wires. I have a new set in my RAV4 now. I’ll install them this Saturday.

MSD 6A your electrical system. You’ll love the mileage and the power. (some in this forum say that is over kill. I say to them; "Really"

AEM Wideband O2 Sensor. You want to run with the big boys. This is the way to go.[FONT=&quot]

Apexi AFC Neo, Fuel Management
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This is the biggest upgrade, for now. These engines run rich. Which mean too much fuel? You have to cut the fuel and feel it fly. No, the OEM computer will NOT over ride the system. As long as it is installed correctly. You will love the power. Tip; the diagram sent with these kits are for the Japanese RAV4. The translation is horrible. You must take it to a competent electrical mechanic. Mine was installed by my brother. Who is an electrical engineer. Be careful with this one. You Fk. Up, you’ll burn the Apexi and the OEM computer. Pricey. But it’s the secret weapon.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]This is some of the stuff you can do to the engine without “going in”. Next time, we’re doing the brakes and the suspension.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I’ll be back[/FONT][FONT=&quot]:wink[/FONT]

More, Part II

[FONT=&quot]Brakes; a good set of FRONT[/FONT][FONT=&quot] DISC BRAKE ROTORS-SLOTTED will work fine. Also, stainless steel brake lines will help a great deal. [/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Energy Suspension sell RAV4.1 polyurethane bushing that will solidify your front suspension.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Addco sells a great rear Anti-Sway Bar. But if you install it, drop me a line. There are some things you should know.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]TRD sells a solid front anti-sway bar. But it is not available, sorry.[/FONT]


Cusco also sells a suspension part.


[FONT=&quot]TRD also had a Short Shifter. If you can fine one, install it. Try EBay.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I did my own Ultra Suspension. This is awesome your RAV4 will be on rails.
[FONT=&quot]This is the raw [FONT=&quot]result. Then i painted it.
[FONT=&quot]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Done
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Weight distribusion is key. The lighter the better. Consider Carbon fiber and Fiberglass. Workd for me.

[FONT=&quot]H&R Spacers are good also, the widder the better. Specially in road[FONT=&quot], solo 1 and that type of fun stuff.
[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Any questions?
[FONT=&quot]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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#5 ·
Try WELCOME TO APEX BRAKES ...........AIRCRAFT QUALITY BRAKE PARTS. Good call anarchyracing. You will never feel a spongy foot pedal. Always solid feel and you don't have to pump the pedal. I'd advice better front and rear shocks. When you step on the pedal with a fresh set of brake pads, at speed, it will tend to dip your front end harder. If not, you will have to be ready on the steering wheel to sudden change in road and sudden harsh movements. I think you know what I mean. That split second of lost of speed might upset the chassis. Premium shocks will help a great deal. BTW, I didn’t get mine here but I guess they can help you out.
 
#7 ·
my plan is to do a little bit of simple motor work, perhaps a rebuild with a few light upgrades. then upgrade the shocks to kyb adjustables, possibly some lowering springs, adjustable pillow blocks, upgrade the swaybars, gonna build a simple roll cage, some unibody bracing underneath, reinforce the rear diff mounts, upgrade brakes as much as i can, and put a set of flowcast braid alloy wheels on it with some nice deep offset. the clutch will be getting an act four disc clutch and alloy pressure plate, going to get a stock flywheel slotted for some weight reduction, going to build a pair of strut tower braces for front and back, as well as removing all tie rods from the rear suspension and replacing them with custom steel links and heim joints. polyurethane engine and trans mounts, as well as full polyurethane suspension bushing upgrade, custom reinforced lower control arms up front and bracing/trussing of the rear trailing arms and spring/shock mounts. ill also be building some custom fiberglass aero parts for it, like a deck airfoil over the back end, an air splitter for the back end, custom porting/venting for the engine bay. not as much for going stupid fast, as it will be for going as fast as a rav will go without worrying about wrecking ****. also i want it to look like a rally car haha cause why not
 
#8 ·
Start with the suspension first. Many guys here go for the engine first and finish crashing the vehicle because of poor suspension. We all want to go fast, fine. Problem is when we are up there, we can't stop. Also consider putting your RAV4 on a diet. Unless you have a large family. Remove the rear seats. Fiberglass parts and carbon fiber help a great deal making your RAV4 amid engine car by way of weight distribution. Remember, this chassis has a lot in common with the Celica 86-89 and the Celica AWD. Just do some digging and research and you will find parts intended for those vehicles that will work. For the rest, hay, sounds good. BTW, if you do buy the Celica parts, don’t say it is for a RAV4.1. You’ll lose all warranty.
 
#11 ·
i may be a bit more technical than most guys, but i come from a backgroud building v8 engines. im currently trying to find info on some parts swaps, primarily as much of the valvetrain as possible (cams, springs, buckets) from a 3s-ge. im also trying to find out if an arp head stud or main bearing cap stud kit from a 3s-gte will work on the fe motor. when i build the new motor ill be blueprinting and balancing the crank, balancing the pistons and rods and putting in all new rings seals and bearings, going to try to find a lighter crank or one that will take a little more rpm in the hopes of making a 3s-fe that may not make a whole lot more power, but will take a LOT more abuse! generally with any motor, you want to find the happy medium of flow and restriction. intake/exhast, ignition system upgrades, cooling system upgrades, fuel system upgrades, all these simple universal-ish things can go a long ways towards getting any motor working better. im used to working with 400+hp small block mopars, so the idea of building a motor to make a "healthy 180hp" is almost hilarious to me, but in all honesty in a rav4 that would make a pretty decently quick little unit. import/inline4/tuner type stuff is fairly new to me, but a lot of it translates over, the tough part is finding parts, often custom built is the only way to go (if you can build it or afford to have someone build it for you) as i suspect a more aggressive set of cams will require.
 
#12 ·
Some of this information I've already PMed you. But for the benefit of local and world readers here is what I've found over the years.

First of all, I agree with you regarding that little mods go a long way. For Cams and custom grinds look no further then Web Cams here you can have your own, or a salvage cam, be grind to your specifications. For forged cranks. You can send it to a machine shop and cook it. Then when it comes out, it will be forged. OR, do the 3SGTE crank in a 3SFE engine, which is forged from Toyota. Rods also. Some people just do the 3SGTE engine. Your call.



For performance oil pump, and forged 3SFE pistons, go to Import Performance Parts in 24 Elm Street, Plaistow, NH 03865. These people have many 3SFE performance parts like pistons, rods, crank, perf oil pump etc. Even Turbo kits for the 3SFE engine.


BTW, I also started with a 383 Nova. Until it was taken for a joy ride and totaled. :frown Then I bought my RAV4.1.
 
#14 ·
I really don't like too much the number game. I just mount up and go for the ride. If it feels good. I'm done. If it's worst then before, I just twink away. Like misterdee says, take a chair, it might take a while.

The suspension is the real factor here. All the mods. I've placed pictures all over this forum. just check them out.
 
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#15 ·
surely then if there are no actual figures are you sure some of the improvement isnt just imaginatory?

not being funny, but its like if you fit a cone filter to an engine it sounds better/faster so you think it is.....

id take it to a reputable rolling road and see if there is much gain per £.
 
G
#17 ·
Nice. I'm only stating that it would be Benicial for other member to see what, if any difference there was on your RAV compared to standard. As we all know the 3sfe engine was fitted to lots of different models and performance upgrades a quite sought after.
Like I said I wasn't being funny. Just genuinely interested
 
#18 ·
Just read all the post I've made to this honorable forum mate. Some work, others don’t. Problem is Zombie is that many people have criticized my post and always asking for numbers. To me, that is my colleagues, Professor Baldwin down the hall. And many people have been offended by my answers. I'm a university professor and my brother is an electrical engineer. I take it to him, and despite he runs Hondas, he works on my ride. I’ve never asked him for numbers but it runs great. I’ve just taken basic theories and put them to good use. Good air, spark, and gas, good exhaust. All this has to be stopped, good brakes and I’m improving them following Stevens Avalon front disc brake Blog. Suspension, the basics, H&R Springs, Shocks - Bilstein Sports, Ultra Racing suspension (Home Made), TRD front anti-sway bar, Rear Addco, Ground all the electrical system, along with an MSD 6A (left over from my 383 Nova), TRD Short Shifter, an APEXI computer on board. I’m telling you Zombie, it run up there with the big boys on the freeway. But people don’t believe me. I don’t care, as long as I always see the other driver stupid face when I pass them at speed, well, that works for me. Happy Reading. :nerd
 
G
#19 ·
No extra reading needed mate. I've moved to RAV 4s from mk2 mr2's (sw20) and belive me most of the stuff engine wise - you've done to your RAV has been done via the same principles on the 3sge in the mr2 and none of it makes a difference. If you are so convinced why not go get a chep dunno done?
It appears that you may be on commission or some crap from some of these companies (otherwise why would you not get a proof ((ish)) dunno done?

Like I said dude I'm not bothered about "you running with the big boys on the freeway" or as I would put it "overtaking people that don't know why you are speeding past them"
But some actual useful dyno figures to help other members figure out what's useful would be a better idea.

I'm not getting into an argument but you should maybe think about how useful your "word" is against some actual legible proof.
 
#20 ·
Regarding my words, simple mate. Don't pay any attention of whatever you read from me, or say regarding parts and performance. It's that I've tried many parts, like I said before, some work, others don't. I guess your best judgment would be for you to try them. Again, don't listen to me. Word of advice mate. I hope that wallet is fat and CC is clean, you'll need them. :laugh

Now, if you want to experiment like I've done for the past 17 years, go right ahead. Try them all. I'm just trying to make short cuts, saying what works, what is snake oil. My dad has have gas (petro) station for the past 40 years on the island. There, you can listen to all these young guns bench race. You get plenty of info there.

I've just install proven basic performance ideas. I don't have time to go to a place where you only see race cars lining up. Me, with my little RAV4, do you think they really care. Once you've paid, they just want to take it down. It's embarrassing for their business and for me.

Regarding "overtaking people that don't know why you are speeding past them". Dude, I'm just running from one campus to another so I won't listen to it from my boss when I punch in late. (It’s a thirty five minute drive from school to campus) Now, if on the way to work.....well you know what I mean. Enough said. Happy spending. Remember, don’t pay any attention of what I write, it’s just an illusion.
 
#21 ·
im not looking for numbers. i just want my rav to be not slow haha. not expecting fast, just... not dead slow works for me. personally, ive found a lot of really useful stuff in this thread, and through pm, and its all been a positive step in the right direction. cant wait to turbo my 3sfe, everyone says "just get the gte and be done with it" and im thinking yeah or i could spend less money on a turbo system and solid rebuild and end up with basically the same thing. but to each their own. personally, i can almost guarantee ill never dyon my rav cause, i mean, its a rav4. the last engine i had in my dodge ram flywheel dyno'd at just under 450hp, and well past 500lb/ft, so really, dyno'ing a rav4 seems silly to me. i just want it to be fun, im not out to prove anything to anyone.
 
#23 ·
it comes down to a fine line between two things. some guys are gear heads, and some guys are racers. gear heads do it for the love of it, for the fun and the build, for the knuckles skinned to the bone and the scars and seeing your work at the end of the day, or month, or year even. racers are only in it to one-up whoever they can, trash talk whoever they can and compete at every little thing that they can possibly find to compete with others at. theyre not in it to enjoy it, theyre not in it to get something positive from it, theyre there only to win at something and thats about it. some people flirt with that boundary, some are hard to classify, but really, every meet, every car show, every forum, its always just those two types. you and me mensajero, were gearheads. gearheads built the automotive scene, racers tend to forget that. passion made it happen, mouthy brats are ruining it for everyone. such is life.
 
#27 ·
Following up in the post. I've received numerous request to explain the who,what, when, were, and why of the parts and performance.

The majority of request are for simple, street performance upgrades. Not neck breaking toque, but speed. This post explain it all. now then, how, keep reading

Simple, if you want to weekend warrior, you are looking at opening up your engine and installing a performance camshaft. Web Cam can take a stock cam and work on it to your performance needs. But really, a SAM'S/Walmart getter with a 1500RPM. I don't think so. IMO, keep it quiet but fast. Like a sleeper. Good intake, many have said "NO" regarding K&N filters. To me, its indispensable. If you use a stock OEM box, fine, but don't expect torque in the low RPM range. It will kick in at high RPM. A funnel, OK, it works. But it also draws in HOT "under the hood air". To me, that is a NO GO. Use an outer intake horn and Apollo K&N filter. Pricey, yes, but the increase in power is work it. (Arrow) BTW, DEI header and muffler wrap also give some more ponies.


Where you place it, it's up to you. But is does the job.


A header is a must. Good intake works exceptionally well with good exhaust.


I recently installed a OBX header. Good quality. don't fall for those Pacestter headers, they last a very short time. So don't do those. After that, a good exhaust pipe, with Borla Double tip end.

Magnaflow works for me. This is a premium pipe and muffler. I bought the same diameter as a TRD RAV4.1 muffler. Only thing is that I placed it vertically and no horizontally like the OEM muffler.

Suspension, wow, this is the reason I can drive into a curve after I read this book. Old, but you can pick up a few tips here and there. :nerd


Then I installed Bilstien Shocks (The Sport Shocks NOT the HD shocks). H&R Springs to lower my ride, HOME MADE Ultra Racing Bars


Addco rear suspension Sway Bar, Front TRD Anti-Sway bar.

Yes, the TRD ASB is Orange

Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings all around, front and rear.


Stainless Steel Brake lines are a very good investments.

Your life depends on it, use them.

An oil cooler for the engine and the transaxle also give you an very good edge. It also helps your vehicle to run cool in hot environments.


Throttle body intake plate. Works well :surprise

Apexi NEO Computer, Pricey, yes, but it will take your RAV4 to another, eye pooping, performance. Slightly lean out the mixture and you will be running with the big boy. :wink NO joke, you will hang :wink:.
Electrical system, oh yeah. USA Pivot Razini kit with grounding kit. BTW, great price on Amazon. I got mine for $75.00 :frown But, that was some time ago, when it was new on the market, it is still running fine. You want to pick up, or lets say, to wake-up your power, this is a must have. You will feel the upgrade.

MSD 6A is installed, behind the dash. :wink

A new Brake system is in the works.

These are Celica GT (95-99) Brake brackets, next step, Rotors – Lexus LS430 (01 – 06), and CalipersToyota Avalon (95-97).

I'm not finish, chew on these while I do some computer work. :wink

"I'll be Back"!
 
#28 ·
I still have some more stuff done to my RAV4.1. But those are minor once. Most recently upgrades were the
MSD Blaster SS Coil - 8207​
to the
MSD Blaster 2 Coil Hi-Performance.​



A new set of Wires, NGK, The Nology were toasted, more then 5K miles.

Rear wing spoiler is in the garage for a long time and I'm going to install it when $ permits. A v6 is in the near future, we'll see.:wink

Anything else, you know where to find me...here. Just PM me.
 
#29 ·
hey bud, i almost dont beleive it myself but i actually found a complete transmission out of a celica gt4 rc! going to swap that in this summer along with some other goodies :D took me three months of searching to find out that its actually in the next city over, at a friend of mines place! cant wait to pick it up and start tinkering!
 
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