RAV4 to RAV6, how much we are talking about?

[Logie]

I assume you have seen this...? Rav4 V6 Conversion
With vids

RaV6.wmv - YouTube

RaV6.wmv - YouTube

[mensajero]

Yes, we've seen this one on this forum. This is Woodsport from England. When he first started this project, he dropped by and he let us know what he was doing back in 2010.

6cyl. Engine Conversion/Swap for 1996 Rav4

He just left us all drooling. Since his introduction to us, some member (me included) have been working and doing the research. If anyone is interested, you guys should register on Woodsport web site and check out all the monsters he's done over the years.

He also gave us some valuable information and he's willing to help anyone out in the, oh so difficult, front V6 engine mount. He also can help out with the electrical system. Which I pointed out on this post. This IS an slight bug you are going to run into, trust me. BTW, remember, the Asian and European RAV4 models electrical systems are inverted. Stay Tune.

[Logie]

Yeah im on the woodsport website Im thinking of getting him to do some work on my MKiv Supra as he isn't very far from me(1.5 hours drive), my RAV has passed it i think its time i put it out to retire as fifth gear is no longer working.

[mensajero]

Originally Posted by Logie

I assume you have seen this...? Rav4 V6 Conversion
With vids

RaV6.wmv - YouTube

I would love to see the muffler system on this V6 RAV4...I mean RAV6. It sounds so cool, yet it's stealthy.

[R00BZ]

Originally Posted by Logie

Yeah im on the woodsport website Im thinking of getting him to do some work on my MKiv Supra as he isn't very far from me(1.5 hours drive), my RAV has passed it i think its time i put it out to retire as fifth gear is no longer working.

The 5th gear issue is common, and can be fixed quite easily with a bit of mechanical knowledge. Try searching the forum as there is a great how-to thread on this. Also just get woodsport to v6 it for you...

[mensajero]

OK, let go back to one. The purpose of this post.

Lets talk about the flywheel/Transaxle/clutch. The base of it all is knowing which engine you got. Lets say you got a 1MZ-FE from a 1997 Camry. These cars, the great majority of them, came with auto transmission. If you are going with a 5speed. (E250) You will need a new flywheel. The Fidanza 130011 Billet Aluminum Flywheel would be an excellent chose. It weights in at 16.4 lbs. Give the picture below a click for price and availability.



This flywheel comes with 8 blot holes. Do it right the first time. Buy a set of ARP flywheel bolts. Now you need a clutch. You should go for a premium clutch because with this flywheel, your engine will rev up faster. If you've gone this far, what the "Blep". TRD, Zoom, ACT are the way to go...again $.

For the transmission, I guess if you've gone this far. You can do the one recommended by MonkeyWrench equipped with LSD trans.

Ratios:
1st 3.230
2nd 1.913
3rd 1.258
4th 0.918
5th 0.731
Final Drive 4.285

If you can't for the moment , like me, you can use your E250.

Next post, whats up with the engine? It's never Plug and Play.

[DJ Sueno]

DON'T get ACT clutches, they are horrible!!!

I had one in my RAV4 and driveability went out the window... Clutch chatter is a problem, and the engagement was almost like an on off switching from first to second, no in between... I even had the freeplay adjusted, and it was still bad... I also had the street disc which wasn't supposed to be so harsh... Using reverse was also horrible because of the engagement and chatter...

So forget ACT... unless you want to live with those issues...

Do some searching on ACT... There are plenty of people who don't like them.
-----

On the MR2 forums, I have heard a lot of people that used and liked Clutch Masters.

If you just plan on leaving the engine pretty much stock, I would say to just get a stock, or stock type clutch...

Also, unless a modified flywheel is needed, I wouldn't get an upgraded flywheel either, but that's just me...

Just my .02 cents...

[mensajero]

The Engine!

Unless you are rich, If you were, you've wouldn't be driving a RAV4.1. Most likely your going to your local salvage yard to purchase that oh so much needed V6 engine. Awesome, here I go, nervous, eager and willing to drop your hard earned money on the first engine see that will rock the boulevard that will launch your popularity in the Tuner scene.

STOP!! right their mister. This utter feeling is the one that will get you in trouble. You must be cool, and look for the correct engine. So what are you going to look for. Remember, you buy it, its yours. No refund. Something is wrong with this one. Here is another one.

If the engine is outdoors, leave and go to another salvage yard. You won't want to do business with this dude. They should be on the floor and in a dry atmosphere, indoors, not outdoors. Outdoor engine, might have water in them.
You might see some rusted parts here and there. Watchout with those engines. That means that they were driving without water and might have blow gaskets. Never buy an engine which is wrapped to go with plastic. Always look over as much as you can.

First thing you are going to check is the dipstick. If the engine has water in it, the oil will look like cafe with cream. Pass on this one. Try to get an engine that looks as new and clean as possible. That means it was freshly pulled from the chassis.

Make a hand drawing of your 3SFE engine and try to see if the hoses, and electrical system of the engine you are going to purchase be as close to as possible. If not, you will need an electrical mechanic who will have to decipher which wires goes where. Add also, the hoses. Which one is for water, air, which blows and which are for vacuum. And yes, adding to the price tag.

Check that you get everything. Alternator with pullies, Engine mounts, Intake and exhaust manifold. Sensors, wires, Coils, A/C and anything else you can grab.

[R00BZ]

Originally Posted by mensajero

The Engine!

Unless you are rich, If you were, you've wouldn't be driving a RAV4.1. Most likely your going to your local salvage yard to purchase that oh so much needed V6 engine. Awesome, here I go, nervous, eager and willing to drop your hard earned money on the first engine see that will rock the boulevard that will launch your popularity in the Tuner scene.

STOP!! right their mister. This utter feeling is the one that will get you in trouble. You must be cool, and look for the correct engine. So what are you going to look for. Remember, you buy it, its yours. No refund. Something is wrong with this one. Here is another one.

If the engine is outdoors, leave and go to another salvage yard. You won't want to do business with this dude. They should be on the floor and in a dry atmosphere, indoors, not outdoors. Outdoor engine, might have water in them.
You might see some rusted parts here and there. Watchout with those engines. That means that they were driving without water and might have blow gaskets. Never buy an engine which is wrapped to go with plastic. Always look over as much as you can.

First thing you are going to check is the dipstick. If the engine has water in it, the oil will look like cafe with cream. Pass on this one. Try to get an engine that looks as new and clean as possible. That means it was freshly pulled from the chassis.

Make a hand drawing of your 3SFE engine and try to see if the hoses, and electrical system of the engine you are going to purchase be as close to as possible. If not, you will need an electrical mechanic who will have to decipher which wires goes where. Add also, the hoses. Which one is for water, air, which blows and which are for vacuum. And yes, adding to the price tag.

Check that you get everything. Alternator with pullies, Engine mounts, Intake and exhaust manifold. Sensors, wires, Coils, A/C and anything else you can grab.

Dont forget that if using the 3vzfe you need the 4th ecu plug which is NOT ON THE ENGINE HARNESS! Oh and get an engine with low miles, so you don't need to rebuild the bottom end, it just adds time and complexity to an already difficult build.

[mensajero]

Originally Posted by R00BZ

Dont forget that if using the 3vzfe you need the 4th ecu plug which is NOT ON THE ENGINE HARNESS! Oh and get an engine with low miles, so you don't need to rebuild the bottom end, it just adds time and complexity to an already difficult build.

No one said it would be cheap nor time consuming. Getting an engine with low mileage is a toss up. Lets hope you are lucky. Just remember, the older the engine the more miles it must have.

Since we are here. Should you rebuild the engine regardless? Well, you should open the bottom, and check. If you see the rod bearings with a lot of miles (ware) you should then take it to a machine shop and have it done. Remember, if you go with a weak engine, chances are you will eventually have to take it out again and do the entire engine anyway.

If you do the 1MZ, 2MZ, or 3MZ. you will fine good information here