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Old 02-17-2013, 01:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Im almost half way through the box just being a pain. Does it have any locating dowels. From 1 till 5 it moved on about 5mm at the bottom not top. Thats buy hitting a screwdriver with a hammrr
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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tryy pulling the end furthest away from the engine toward the back of the car whilst having someone lever between the box and engine. they are a pig to get out but shouldnt be that bad.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Gearbox still stuck. I didn't think it would be this difficult am I forgetting to do something
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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asking the obvious are the gearchange cables disconnected? supension cross member removed, starer out. both front and rear mounts removed, with engine supported on jack or some type of support, lower about three to four inches and pull gear box towards the back of the car whilst getting someone to pry box away from engine. the actuator needs to be removed and any other bolts that are over the box. good luck and if all else fails as most of the bits are disconnected for the extra hour your just as well to drop the engine out, if you label every thing you disconnect you cant go wrong,
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have changed clutch set and i must say that it wasn't easy. You must lower the engine down to pull the gearbox. To lower the engine down you must detach a lot of engine equipment. To change the seal you must detach oil pan.

I have made some fotos during my work. I will post them for a moment. If you have some precise questions..just ask.
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:55 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I did my 4wd clutch yesterday.
Did it without removing the engine and it is a pig of a job.

It is possible to do it this way, but there isn't any real benefit over dropping the lot out. Time and effort are about the same, if not more.

There are a couple of locating dowels, but that's not what makes it hard to split the box from the engine/transfer case.

The output shaft runs right the way through the transfer case and is in effect three shafts, a long thin one inside a shorter wider one that's inside a stumpy fat one.

The removal can hang up on these and it does take a lot of pulling and jemmying to free them.

Same goes for getting the box back on, the short shaft lines up ok, but the middle shaft can hang up half way in, getting someone to rotate the prop shaft helps the splines line up.

Then it's a matter of more shoving, jemmying and jiggling until the studs are through enough to bolt up.
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