Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

Rav 4.3 Strut replacement advice

54K views 39 replies 19 participants last post by  rav4system 
#1 ·
First post here, I needed some advise. I have searched and read through all of the posts I could find about this.

2006 Rav4 V6 4WD Limited 62,000miles
Needs replacement front struts
Background: Want to do it myself, 6-8 out of 10 mechanical skills, not much car experience. Dealer wants $800+

The main question I have is, do I need to replace any other parts at the same time? Some have suggested replacing:
1. front sway bar end links
2. Bearing strut mounts

Secondary question:
What kind of struts? I have read the prior discussions, I am leaning toward KYB. Bilsteins are not available for this model, and reviews of Monroe are variable. OEM I would not do because these lasted only 62K miles. Other brands like Replacement, OESpectrum, and Senson I don't know anything about.
 
#2 ·
Kyb are good, seems 62k is early for struts, this is not usually a job to do in your drive way, you will need some instructions to do this safely if you have never done this type of repair, plus you will have to take the struts to a shop to swap over the springs, then it should be aligned. Also the strut mounts should be checked for wear. Most of the ft suspension must be disassembled.
 
#3 ·
struts are not that hard to replace, depending on if you are going to buy just a strut or the whole strut assembly including the spring and everything. If you are going to buy the whole assembly and you are pretty handy person it should take you no more than 30-45 min per side. You not always have to the the alignment after a strut job, it depends if the struts have the ability to be aligned or not.

If on the other hand you will buy only strut, not a strut assembly, that will take a bit longer, but the benefit is that it is much cheaper. You will need to either buy or rent (Autozone rents it out) a strut spring compressor. It is very dangerous to compress the spring, because the tension is so high, that is the compressor is not alight straight, and one side were to slip off it can rip your arm out. once you take the spring off, put it on the new strut and tighten everything. There are plenty videos on YouTube on how to do strut job. I've replaced the struts on Honds Cr-v and Crysler T&C. Both were very similar. and I did it on my driveway with nothing but a socket set and a strut compressor

Good luck :)
 
#21 ·
struts are not that hard to replace, depending on if you are going to buy just a strut or the whole strut assembly including the spring and everything. If you are going to buy the whole assembly and you are pretty handy person it should take you no more than 30-45 min per side. You not always have to the the alignment after a strut job, it depends if the struts have the ability to be aligned or not.
Good luck :)
Does anyone know where I can buy a strut assembly replacement for a 2007 V6 LE? I've searched online (Monroe, KYB and Toyota) but it doesn't seem to be offered as an assembly, only a strut.

Also, what type of spring compressors have people been using? Someone told me that the standard two-clamp style is too dangerous for the large diameter springs. Comments?
 
#5 ·
I have the same car and have replaced just the right front strut since it was leaking and banging over bumps. Pretty straightforward. As mentioned you'll need a spring compressor and caution. One safety trick I use is wrapping the spring & compressor in a heavy mat or blanket while working with them. If something goes wrong parts don't fly as far if at all.

Another tip: DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER SHAFT NUT ON THE CAR. You'll have lots of fun ever getting it back on.

I bought replacement quality struts on eBay. It's been fine for 25,000 miles.

Oh yeah, unless it's perfect you should replace the inner dust cover. It's cheap from Toyota. I posted the part number & price somewhere a while back.
 
#6 ·
Dr Dyno,
Thanks for the tip. I have read your posts elsewhere and found them helpful. Interestingly, it is the right front that went bad on my Rav4 as well. They must have had some bad ones.
I have watched several videos, and read everything I can find on the subject on this site. I do like the idea of using a blanket while the spring is compressed.
No one has mentioned a torque wrench. I looked up the specs for torquing the bolts, and intend to do that as well.
Shep and Fatherer, appreciate your input as well. I do not think the risk should be underestimated.

I will post back how it went and any problems or issues encountered.

Paul
 
#9 ·
Although you can replace just one strut, i would recommend to replace both. Otherwise the front end will not be aligned. While the struts are off its a good idea to inspect and replace if necessary sway bar bushings. cheap and good reassurance for good handling.
 
#11 ·
Although you can replace just one strut, I would recommend to replace both. Otherwise the front end will not be aligned.
Not sure how you figured that. :confused: :shrug:
 
#14 ·
That's why I put on a "replacement" quality not a KYB or a major brand. Figured the damping would be close to OEM and it is. Car rides perfect. Not to worry I have a matching new one for the other side on hand if needed. :thumbs_up:
 
#15 ·
I've got a 2006 V6 Limited with 102k miles on it. Very recently, the ride seems to have gotten rougher/bouncier. Tiny potholes feel much deeper, and I've noticed the rear end bouncing more than I think it should after a bump.

This all makes me think it's time for new shocks/struts. I've looked at the oil leak pattern document, and I jacked up both ends of the RAV and I can't see any leakage. While under it, I did see a warning sticker on the rear ones that they're gas filled. Is it possible for them to have gone bad (lost some gas) without any oil seepage?

My auto mechanical experience is pretty much limited to changing tires, oil/oil filter, engine/cabin air filters, and brake pads. I doubt I'm up to doing shocks/struts without help, so I'm probably going to contact one or more of the local dealership's service departments. What's reasonable $ for replacing all 4 shocks/struts (whichever the RAV has)?

BTW...I suspect it's not a big deal, but I did notice on the fronts that the accordion shroud that covers the top of the shocks is breaking up on both of them.
 
#16 ·
I just talked to one of the local dealerships. If I need new shocks/strut assemblies all around, it's $1744 if no additional parts are needed. I've been doing the oil changes myself for the past several, but it's overdue for a coolant flush, which they'd want another $140 for...so if I have them do all of this, it needs nearly $2k of parts & labor.

kbb says the RAV is worth about $9500 (trade-in value)...and that's not considering the work it needs. It's been the most reliable car I've owned, but the mileage and work it needs has me wondering if it's time to consider replacing it.
 
#17 ·
Doing struts yourself will cost you $600, And coolat flash is not that hard of the precedure. If you do everything yourself you should be under $700. both of the things are standard maintenance. If you can't tackle it yourself go to local reputable garage. You will save a lot of money over the dealer.
 
#18 ·
I took it to a local shop (not dealership) and was told it needs front struts. They didn't think the rear shocks needed replacing...but I'm wondering, at 102k miles, should I just go ahead and replace the shocks anyway, figuring if they're not bad yet, they will be very soon? I think when they get back to me with a price on the struts, I'm going to at least ask "how much more to do the shocks while you're at it?"
 
#19 ·
$445 for the front struts installed and an alignment.
Another $321 for rear shocks.

This is all with KYB parts. That's a little less than half of what the dealership wanted. I think I'm going to go ahead and have it all done by this independent shop.
 
#20 ·
What Does Your Odometer Read?
Experts recommend the replacement of worn shocks and struts at 50,000 Miles / 80,000 Km*



To help motorists protect their driving safety, ride control engineers suggest that automotive shocks and struts be replaced at 50,000 Miles / 80,000 Km. In addition, it is always a good idea to ask your automotive service provider to perform a complete chassis system safety check - including ride control components - every 12,000 miles.

Ride control components wear out due to everyday driving and a variety of load and road conditions
Shocks and struts may not show any visible signs of wear, but internal components may be past their useful life
Typical shocks and struts "stroke" an average of 1,750 cycles per mile – that's 21 million cycles per 12,000 miles!
Shocks and struts are susceptible to additional wear caused by heavy use and severe road / environmental conditions
Ride control components interact with, and depend on, other key steering and suspension parts

50,000 Mile / 80,000 Km
Replacement Recommendation*
Help improve vehicle handling
characteristics and comfort

A fresh set of shocks can enhance more than just your ride. They help improve braking and handling under certain driving conditions and they make vehicles safer and easier to control. This helps make the road safer for everyone.
 
#22 ·
Experts recommend the replacement of worn at 50,000 Miles / 80,000 Km*
Okay, who are these "experts?" Salesmen I bet! And I'd recommend replacing worn shocks and struts when they fail not at any specific mileage. Ad departments write explanations that may work on the uninformed, but not me. ;)

bee-man I used this type of compressor. No problems but I do keep the springs wrapped in a rug as much as possible.

 
#23 ·
Thanks Dyno. I think I will attempt the replacment.

Strangely, my car only has 38k miles (it is 6 years old though), and the strut seemed to go bad (poor compression dampening and scratchy noise) after jacking up the front for a tire rotation.... I hope I am not barking up the wrong tree.

Almost everyone I talk to discourages me from compressing springs because of the potential danger, and rightfully so. I may end up renting a vertical compression tool and take all precautions to maximize safety (including your rug barrier method).

For now, I just need to make sure I acquire all the correct parts for standard replacement/maintenance. I would hate to have the car in pieces and then realize I forgot something.

1. Struts
2. Bearing
3. Sway bar end links
4. Lower and upper spring seat insulators
5. Strut mount?
6. Inner dust cover?

Please let me know if I am missing anything...

Thanks!
 
#37 ·
#24 ·
If you have a friendly independent repair shop nearby, ask them how much they would charge just to swap the springs over to the new struts. They can usually do it for maybe a half hour of labor since they have these fancy wall-mounted spring compressors:

 
#27 ·
Hi all, thank you very much for the suggestions. In an effort to save money, I decided to replace the strut only. When I took the assembly apart, the bearing seal needed replacement but everything else looked OK. Car has only 38k miles, and the original strut was toast. All is well now.

Does anyone have the torque specification for the various strut mounting bolts? That would be nice to know, but not necessary.

BTW, I was able to rent a Mcpherson spring compressor from O'reilly Auto Parts at no cost (deposit and return). Very cool service that they offer.

Thanks again!
 
#28 ·
Bringing an old thread back to life. Wife called this afternoon and said she started hearing a tapping sound. I swapped out Rav's with her and as soon as I started driving I heard the tap. Put it up on the jack this afternoon and as soon as I started lifting I heard a creak/pop from the top of the strut tower. I reached under and grabbed the spring and could make the sound from the top of the strut tower. My guess is that the strut bearing is shot. I plan on replacing the struts, bearings, and mount at this point, but can anyone tell me if the bearing is included in te mount sub-assy or do I need to order the bearing separately. The parts diagrams I have checked don't agree on what is the 'bearing'. In this diagram the 'bearing' is shown as 48619/48619A. On other sites, it is described as the upper insulator. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 
#29 ·
The diagram you've found looks like it's for a euro-spec rav4, which may use different bearings, altho TOYODIY lists the same part number for both sides (48619-42010).

From what I've seen, the insulators for upper and lower parts of the coil springs are generally made of a rubber material, and used for dampening sound. In this case, the upper insulator is the accordion-like bellows sleeve, whereas the lower insulator sits between the lower coil of the spring and the seat on the strut. The bearing itself would be the part number you have listed.

Personally, I would consider replacing the suspension supports (48609‑42020) as well, which look like the rubber 'top-hat' portion of the assembly, since they can often wear out too. TOYODIY lists them for $110 apiece, but amazon has them for just over $30 each if you live in the US.
 
#30 ·
Replace shocks & struts

Hi,
I am a new member here, My mechanic just informed me that I will need shocks & struts, with a price tag of $ 1200., why is this so expensive?
He said that the kind I have are not common brand & its alot of work. Is that the going price for this ? He said they are leaking now, how much time do I have ?

Thank you,
chincherub
 
#31 ·
Hi,
I am a new member here, My mechanic just informed me that I will need shocks & struts, with a price tag of $ 1200., why is this so expensive?
He said that the kind I have are not common brand & its alot of work. Is that the going price for this ? He said they are leaking now, how much time do I have ?

Thank you,
chincherub
$1200 means that it is time to make another payment on his boat. Though that is what the dealership quoted me two years ago, it is high.

I did it myself, but I had all the tools to do it. I just replaced my springs and I posted up a set of pictures and instructions. If you're going to do it yourself, you'll probably spend about $300 for a set of shocks and struts, then borrow or rent a set of spring compressors and a floor jack and have at it. Stubborn and rusty bolts can be a problem, however if you soak them in PB-Blaster or WD-40 for a couple of days before you attack them, it can make a huge difference. Just give them a squirt a few days in a row, and it may save you a few hours of cursing.

Good luck.
 
#34 ·
Toyota Platinum warranty strut replacement

While inspecting my front tires, I noticed that the front strut bellows were cracked from wear. I was planning on doing some work on the suspension and was planning on replacing the bellows, but just out of curiosity I wanted to see if they were covered by my Toyota Platinum Warranty, and to my surprise, they were. I was almost hesitant to ask the dealer to look at it thinking it was somewhat petty, but they did have them replaced. After the work was approved under warranty, the service rep told me that they needed to replace the struts too, and having a $0 deductible, I gladly approved the work. New front struts at 70K miles made a huge difference. I would guess this is an $800- $1200 job. Take a look and see if your front strut bellows are cracked and broken, and if you are still under warranty with a Platinum Plan, go see your dealer.
 
#35 ·
While inspecting my front tires, I noticed that the front strut bellows were cracked from wear. I was planning on doing some work on the suspension and was planning on replacing the bellows, but just out of curiosity I wanted to see if they were covered by my Toyota Platinum Warranty, and to my surprise, they were. I was almost hesitant to ask the dealer to look at it thinking it was somewhat petty, but they did have them replaced. After the work was approved under warranty, the service rep told me that they needed to replace the struts too, and having a $0 deductible, I gladly approved the work. New front struts at 70K miles made a huge difference. I would guess this is an $800- $1200 job. Take a look and see if your front strut bellows are cracked and broken, and if you are still under warranty with a Platinum Plan, go see your dealer.
Thank you for this! I was thinking about this the other day and was poring through the VSA to see if struts were covered, and it wasn't very clear. I was unsure but you confirmed it. I was also looking to see if the rear shocks were covered, and I don't see them listed. Springs yes, shocks no. But they are also NOT on the list of uncovered items. So who knows?
 
#36 ·
this is correct! my front lefthand shock is leaking, but i noticed a bit of it at around 70K kms. few days ago, at 99k+ kms , before i swap my winter wheels i checked it again, heavy leak now, so i started driving and check it manually, found out , it needs to be replaced. in spring , i guess. no money for it right now. :-(
 
#38 ·
Bee-man, I've replaced struts using various spring compressors. You do need to be careful, especially with the cheapest compressors that are made up of two separate parts, to keep them straight. Once I rented a set from a parts store that looked like big alligator jaws, very stable and secure. The important thing is to take your time and watch that spring carefully. You'll be OK
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top