Need a DIY - Drive Belt Replacement

Hey guys my wife's 2001 Rav4 has 107,xxx on it now and the drive belt has cracks in it.
I want to replace it before it goes on it own. Should have a timing chain so no worries on that.

I tried searching but to no avail. Anyone who has anyone done it or knows how tough it is please let me know what to do. The shop wanted to charge 56.99 for the belt and 95.70 for labor.

anybody?

[Jeff]

It's easy to do, but requires some patience and a long wrench (or serpentine belt tool).

I know a few people have asked how to replace the serpentine belt before, so I swear there is at least a post or two around here about it.

If you follow the path of the belt, you will find the tensioner pulley, which is mounted on an arm that pivots to take up slack in the belt. There is what looks like a fake hex bolt head on the pulley arm, and this is what you attach the wrench to so you can release tension on the belt.

You'll need a long handle for the wrench to provide enough leverage since the tensioner is very tight. Or you can pick up a serpentine belt tool at the auto parts store (you might even be able to just borrow one).

You'll need to remove the splash shield on the inside of the passenger front wheel well so you can access the front of the engine pulleys. You don't need to lift up the car, just turned the wheels all the way right.

Thank you so much! Great now I have a project to do LOL

[bilbo777]

Thanks Jeff for the info. I had actually looked at this site for info and now that I've done it, I came back to do a quick update to confirm it works. This is a 2002 Rav4 with AC. Drive belt / serpentine belt.

I'll list the issues and observations so I hope this is helpful as i just did it a few days ago and its fresh on my mind.

Removing the splash guard made life easier - 3 along the bumper and 2 along the guard with another 2 of those nylon pop things. The last one is a rubber pop again near the center of the bumper area I just used to pivot the shield aside.

My only problem was that my socket tool handle was not long enough so leverage was an issue but I found a pipe to fit over the handle to help. On the other tool handle that was long enough, I had to use attachments with my socket which made it not fit over the bolt/remaining firewall so back to the extended pipe with the short handle that could fit the socket.

Now this is basic mistakes I made as I lay under the car which I hope will help you.

The tension pulley wheel that moves seems to be attached to a spring with 2 bolts. From this point on, I will use a clock reference to that assembly.

If we are looking at a clock, at 2 o'clock we have the moving tension pulley, at the center we have the bolt we want to put our socket in at one end of the spring and at 8 o'clock is the other end of the spring. There is some kind of dust shield over the spring between the center of this clock and the 8 spot.

Thank goodness the pulley itself has a strange head (at 2 o'clock) and the other end of the spring (at the 8 o'clock) had an extended bolt so in both instances, they tried to idiot proof which bolt you try to use. So viewed looked at the belts, you attach your socket to the center bolt ( center of the clock ) as it is the only one left.

I would put the socket handle 90 degrees to the plane of movement so that your handle would be at the 5 o'clock position. Pull your handle along the 2 to 8 line and the spring will compress so you can slip the belt off.

I had someone help me move it off but when I went to put it back, I made the mistake of trying to put it over the top pulley in the run. All those outer pulleys have a high edge groove so it made the job almost impossible. So slip it over one of the 'smooth' inner pulleys so it will make it easier.

Lots of details and I hope its not confusing but this should do it.

Basically it is as described in the prior post but I'm just adding details I wish I knew before I started as its been years since I did something like this.

So it is stick the socket on the bolt right below the moving pulley and compress the tension spring so the pulley eases off the belt. Install and reverse.

I think on another car years ago, Pep Boys charged $40 for the belt and $80 labor.

Out of pocket for this - $25 for the belt and about an hour as I was going slow while doing an oil change ( which is ideal as everything is even more reachable ).

Thanks all.

Thanks. This post helped me.
Lowes sells a 3/8" Breaker Bar for about $14
You need to place long pipe (3') over the bar for leverage.
I used box tubing that was from a old weight bench.

The socket you use can be either 19mm or 3/4". They're basically the same.
The key tip is, use/find a socket with lots of "points"
See: http://www.dansmc.com/sockets.jpg
More points gives you more "angles" as options.
For example: First I use a 19mm with 6 points. When I put on the bar, it was with too forward or too back.
I couldn't get it to a good position. Then I switch to a 3/4" socket with 12 points and got the breaker bar to a good starting position.

Turning the wheel to the far right and remove the mud guard helped a lot.

[bilbo777]

Thanks melps.

Saw an alert to this topic in my mailbox and good tip on the socket style. Good pic.

I remember I kept having to readjust the handle to get it at the right angle. Life would have been easier as you suggest. Thanks. I'll keep this tip in mind for other jobs.

[garfieldgurl]

I should've checked the forum before spending nearly $170 at the dealership oh well....