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How to save your high beam bulbs from DRL, add aftermarket RAV4 specific DRL's!

16K views 45 replies 12 participants last post by  batpot 
#1 · (Edited)
:cheers:I bought myself a set of nice Phillips bulbs for my high beams a few months back, then I realized that my drl function will shorten the life of my $35 bulbs. So I set out to find aftermarket drl's for the 4.3, I found a few options:
New Toyota RAV4 LED daytime running head light/lamp 2pcs-in Light Source from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com , US Seller eBay
CAR Specific Toyota RAV4 2012 LED DRL,LED Daytime Running Light + Free Shipping By EMS,Newest Type!!!-in Daytime Running Lights from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com
CAR Specific Toyota RAV4 2011 LED DRL,LED Daytime Running Light + Free Shipping By EMS,Newest Type!!!-in Daytime Running Lights from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com

I went with the First option because I liked the look and dual functionality (they switchback for turn signal). Installation is pretty simple but time consuming. I taped the turn signal wires from my headlights for the turn function and I wired the drl function to acc power and also a fog light switch. So if I want them off I can switch them off anytime but still retaining the turn function. I removed my front bumper in order to install the drl's and route/conceal the wires nicely, no drilling is required because they snap in place where the black plastic garnish/mesh was removed, plus they have 3m tape for extra assurance. Once I had my nice new drl's ready, I went ahead and removed the brown 5 pin relay and installed the 4 pin headlight relay, the result was no more killing my nice bulbs slowly. Had I already purchased the TIS software and cable I could have disabled them from the ecu and saved $4 from having to buy the 4 pin relay :p
Here's how they look on my RAV4 (these pics are from before I had them wired):





Anyways, I thought my fellow forum members might find this info useful, if so then just hit the "thanks" button ;) if not then :cheers:

UPDATE: A few months after I installed these I noticed a buildup of condensation, they were working fine until a few days ago when I noticed two leds are now working dimmer, this is a problem caused by the water, so I went ahead and drilled a few 1/16 holes, now all the water is gone but the two leds are still messed up. If you're having this condensation problem you should immediately drill a few little holes to prevent the led failure. Just make sure you drill them at the bottom and make sure you drill them at an angle that will be difficult for water to enter, also drill 2 holes at the top so that there is a good circulation. I have already ordered a new set and will be drilling them before I install.

UPDATE: I purchased a new set from the seller on eBay, turns out they do not have the switch back function, so no turn signal function, these only have two wires. I've had them in for almost 3 weeks now and so far so good. I haven't drilled any holes yet to see if the condensation will appear but so far nothing, I'm hoping it stays that way.
 
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#2 ·
Cool! Now if only we could see what they look like when lit up.....
 
#4 ·
I will post some pics tonight
 
#3 ·
so I'm trying to figure our how this "switch to turn signal" works. You are getting power from 2 sources. 1 is turn signal, and ACC with a switch. Assuming, common ground, with power leads from both sources.

when the switch is off, it's easy to understand, there's only turn signal. But when the power is on, and you turn on the turn signal, how does interrupt the constant power from ACC?
 
#5 ·
I'm sorry but I have no idea how the installers did it :D I think there was also a relay involved. The only thing I know for sure is that they got power for the turn signal function from the headlight turn signals. I'm sure any one with decent wiring knowledge would be able to do it. I'm not very good with wiring :(
Btw, each drl has this little black box on the wire so I think that is what does the trick. I only did the routing of the wires.
 
#8 ·
Additional pictures of drl & turn signal function added to First post
 
#10 ·
Unfortunately there are no US sellers for this item, I've looked everywhere.
 
#12 ·
Maybe there's an automotive bazaar?
 
#14 ·
Looks great! Just for future reference though, the DRLs shouldn't reduce the life of the high-beams much at all. Since the lights aren't running at full brightness for DRLs they aren't as 'stressed' and will be happy running like that for a long time.

In the cash-strapped theaters and TV studios I have worked in, at times we would only bring the stage lights up to 85-90% brightness because even that 10-15% percent reduction in voltage was enough to make them last significantly longer. Of course the tradeoff was a dimmer, more yellow light.
 
#16 ·
All of the turn signals flash at the same time including the drl turn signal. When it is flashing, the white drl function of the flashing one is off while the other drl is still on/white. I hope I'm making sense :D

Sent from my HTC One X+ using AutoGuide App
 
#17 ·
I really like the look of that mod! and with the "switchback" function between drl and turn signal, it's just a question of taping into the right wire, no relays of anything to install...

I saw in you pictures that you also installed the rear reflector light, was it hard to remove the bumper reflectors? are they glued in, or screwed from the back?

thx
 
#18 ·
...I saw in you pictures that you also installed the rear reflector light, was it hard to remove the bumper reflectors? are they glued in, or screwed from the back?

thx
Screwed from the back and you don't even need to take the rear bumper off :)
 
#20 · (Edited)
#22 ·
You could if you just buy an 09-12 bumper, grill, and headlights. Then you'd have a newer looking Rav4 plus you can do the mod ;) btw all this parts I mentioned shouldn't be more than $400

Sent from my HTC One X+
 
#25 ·
I have DRL on my 15 year old Chevy 4x4. They run the low beams at full on. I leave the fuse out. At least I can do that to disable the DRL. I just bought Techstream so I can turn them off on the RAV.

I am running a pair of the last of the original spherical Samsung HIR1 bulbs on earth and there ain't gonna be no more, so I don't want to waste them during the day. Even at 1/4 power, the IR reflective coating makes them run pretty hot so they are much brighter than the stock DRL. Without the DRL they should last me 5-10 years.

I think DRL is just the latest version of a marketing scheme to get people to buy new cars. Everybody thinks they need LED DRL because the new luxury cars have them, just like so many people started buying blue painted light bulbs when the rich people got HID's so they could be cool too.

Don't get me wrong. If you like them, do it. Far be it from me to tell people what to do if it doesn't bother me. Just don't put HID's in reflector housings.
 
#26 ·
I see what your saying but for me the drl's I'm using have to purposes, they are decorative as well as turn signal indicators.

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#27 ·
like i said, if it pleases you and does not interfere with my rights, go for it. not that you need my permission. it does look cool. it's just not up there on my priority list right now.

i'm not a nazi about breaking the law. i have illegal high beams, but i don't shine them in other people's eyes. I've been known to catch an extra fish or two. :eek:

on the HID thing, I should have said please.
 
#28 ·
I have hid bulbs but I also have projector headlights. I would never use hid bulbs in reflector based headlights. :beer:

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#29 ·
Yeah, when people try to justify it by claiming they can position the lamps accurately enough they are ignoring the fact that the reflector design specifically directs part of the light upwards to illuminate highway signs. The intensity of this light is highly regulated to avoid glare. Anything you do to create more light out of the reflector housing will increase this upward sign illumination over the design specification, and if it is blue it will be that much worse because it will scatter more.

The spec was created by people smarter than us, to help keep us safe. Fancy that. :eek:

As for other lighting mods, I just started at the other end. I thought with the LED brake lights the fried egg look of the amber bulbs in the clear housings was just awful. I replaced them with the V3 Tritons, awesome. They are actually brighter than the stock bulbs, and even looking closely at the housings you can only see a tiny dot of amber.
 
#31 ·
ok, finally getting around to order this.

2 questions:

Where did you order the fog light switch? OEM or aftermarket? I plan on adding the switch next to the cig. lighter/charger area. Planning on tapping the 12volt from there too, since it's only on with ACC.

Also, from the sound of it, all you had to run into the cab is 1 wire, correct? I'll be wiring the fogs soon and I'm going to add an extra wire to the bundle so when I get the DRL, I don't have to do it again.

Thanks
 
#33 ·
For some reason I never saw your post so sorry for the late reply. I bought an original fog light switch from Toyota for a tundra but I also think the switch from a Tacoma would work. As for the wiring, it was like 2-3 wires that go to the switch.

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#38 ·
I just checked, I have the switch in my hand but unfortunately I have used the male harness. If you think you can solder the wires then I can send you the switch.

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#39 ·
Thanks! But I think I'll pass. I can't solder to save my life, well actually, I probably could but would rather not. I got a line on another toggle style switch that may fit, waiting for the seller to respond.

Thanks for the idea about getting a cheap kit and using the switch.
 
#41 ·
thanks for the update.

I just got mine today. Still wondering how the water got into your lights. On mine, the seal around the clear lens looks pretty crappy. and there's a hole with mesh over it next to the wires. I'm wondering if it would be easier to just re seal the whole thing.
 
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