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#1 (permalink) Old 08-23-2013, 09:26 PM
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Winter parking - driveway or garage?

I'm torn between this. Thoughts and preferences?

One the one hand, leaving my RAV outside to the elements just grates at me.... icy and snow accumulation, wind blown elements, sleet, and good knows what else in this God forsaken northern weather that I wish I never had to live in and wouldn't have to had I married a nice southern gal.

However parking your vehicle in a toasty garage melts and activates road salt compounds on the under side of the vehicle, or so i am told and tend to believe. Of course, I'm planning to get some seasonal undercoating from Krown to combat salt.

For those of us unfortunates who own a snow shovel... what are your views and procedures on this if it's even important.

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#2 (permalink) Old 08-23-2013, 09:36 PM
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Being how OCD you're with your rav4, I think you should just store it over the winter in a vacuum tank and not drive it. Get yourself a winter beater, you know like one of the girl you just want to have a one night stand with and not worry about her the next day.
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#3 (permalink) Old 08-23-2013, 09:50 PM
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Being how OCD you're with your rav4, I think you should just store it over the winter in a vacuum tank and not drive it. Get yourself a winter beater, you know like one of the girl you just want to have a one night stand with and not worry about her the next day.
Would if I could but I can't afford a 2nd vehicle, plus the added insurance, plus storage of the first. Maybe the winter won't be as bad this year. 2 years ago it was like autumn for 70 percent of it. Wishing!!!!

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#4 (permalink) Old 08-23-2013, 09:59 PM
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I am far from OCD and my garage is warmer than normal because I found out last year that 2 concrete walls shared with the house are not insulated :0

Still worse, water pools in the middle of the garage since the drain which is suppose to take the water away from that area is blocked; that's the way it was since I purchased my house; never bothered unblocking it. It would cost at least $500 for someone to do it if it can be done.

So I have a toasty garage with high humidity. I still park my car in the garage. I want the engine is be warm, no snow/freezing rain, car takes less time to warm up, easier to remove the snow with my snow blower without having to move the RAV,

I do get my RAV oil sprayed every year though. Last time I checked, the only parts that were rusting were the bumpers!!! I guess they missed those spots year after year

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#5 (permalink) Old 08-23-2013, 11:30 PM
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If you're going to get it undercoated, I'd push for garage, too. Minimal risk of added corrosion thanks to the undercoating, plus all the benefits Vanib mentioned.

I had my previous vehicle undercoated and kept it in an unheated, but attached, garage for the 10 years I owned it, and I never saw a spec of rust on the body. When I traded it for the RAV, it looked pretty much like it came out of the factory the day before, inside and out. (Mechanically, OTOH...)

I had a "rustproofing" done to it when it was new (as I had done to my current Rav4), so it was not an annual oil coating. I don't know how the differences in undercoating materials would apply in this situation, though, nor do I know the differences in amounts and kinds of chemicals used on the road where you are vs. where I am.

The only difference for you inside vs. outside is the activity level of the chemicals. If it's an unheated garage, that difference goes down and so one would hope the undercoating would more than make up for that difference.

.

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#6 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 06:25 AM
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If you're going to get it undercoated, I'd push for garage, too. Minimal risk of added corrosion thanks to the undercoating, plus all the benefits Vanib mentioned.

I had my previous vehicle undercoated and kept it in an unheated, but attached, garage for the 10 years I owned it, and I never saw a spec of rust on the body. When I traded it for the RAV, it looked pretty much like it came out of the factory the day before, inside and out. (Mechanically, OTOH...)

I had a "rustproofing" done to it when it was new (as I had done to my current Rav4), so it was not an annual oil coating. I don't know how the differences in undercoating materials would apply in this situation, though, nor do I know the differences in amounts and kinds of chemicals used on the road where you are vs. where I am.

The only difference for you inside vs. outside is the activity level of the chemicals. If it's an unheated garage, that difference goes down and so one would hope the undercoating would more than make up for that difference.

.
We're in a semi detached so the while the garage isn't vent heated, the garage is next to the house walls on top(roof), back, and left side. The right side of the garage is a concrete wall that splits our garage with the neighbour's garage on the other side. And the garage door has sealing strips to limit air flow. So while it won't be suitable as a man cave in the winter, it's certainly warm enough that by morning, any vehicle parked over night is dry.

My thing with undercoating - as discussed often here - is the punching of new holes in the frame and door.

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#7 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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I had holes drilled in my Mazda 6 and Rav4.

You forget that they are there after some time; they are covered with black plugs. I had initially thought to paint the plugs body colour but they remove the plugs every time. It is a PITA to remove the plugs yourself before you get the service done, at least I think so.

I also remove the door sill covers so that they don't need to drill holes in that area.

My only concern is that if ever you or the next owner decides to stop doing oil sprays, then those holes still need to be greased every 2 years or so.

If you wish, you could get only the underbody sprayed and you could buy 1 spray can of rustproof oil and spray the doors using the drip holes; the pro shop only sprays the oil inside the door towards the bottom anyway. Another option would be for you to remove the door panels; I do that for the rear door. It takes just 2 min to remove by hand; the only issue is that with time, the retainers will need to be replaced as they will likely get damaged. Doing all 5 doors might be a PITA but may be you don't mind?

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#8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 08:58 AM
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I had holes drilled in my Mazda 6 and Rav4.

You forget that they are there after some time; they are covered with black plugs. I had initially thought to paint the plugs body colour but they remove the plugs every time. It is a PITA to remove the plugs yourself before you get the service done, at least I think so.

I also remove the door sill covers so that they don't need to drill holes in that area.

My only concern is that if ever you or the next owner decides to stop doing oil sprays, then those holes still need to be greased every 2 years or so.

If you wish, you could get only the underbody sprayed and you could buy 1 spray can of rustproof oil and spray the doors using the drip holes; the pro shop only sprays the oil inside the door towards the bottom anyway. Another option would be for you to remove the door panels; I do that for the rear door. It takes just 2 min to remove by hand; the only issue is that with time, the retainers will need to be replaced as they will likely get damaged. Doing all 5 doors might be a PITA but may be you don't mind?
At the base of the doors near the bottom corners, there are already unplugged openings. Wouldn't they do for spraying? But I guess they'd have to be plugged cuz ole gravity will just pull that oil out.

As for removing door panels... you can do that easily? Never knew.

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#9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 11:11 AM
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Anyone know how much it cost to rustproof the Rav4? I live in NYC area. thanks
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#10 (permalink) Old 08-25-2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLTIDE View Post
At the base of the doors near the bottom corners, there are already unplugged openings. Wouldn't they do for spraying? But I guess they'd have to be plugged cuz ole gravity will just pull that oil out.

As for removing door panels... you can do that easily? Never knew.

I am not sure what you mean by "unplugged" openings.
If you are talking about the under carriage frame, those are supposed to be plugged They are used by the side steps/nerf bars otherwise.

They drill holes in the body.

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