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#1 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 02:23 PM
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Interior fuse block

I had the recent misfortune of purchasing an electric appliance that plugs into the 12 volt sockets at the front or back of my 2007 RAV4. It blew both fuses assigned to these sockets. The fuses are located in the fuse block located under the dirvers side dash. On most cars, this would be an easy fix ... but ...

Now the punchline: What moron decided to locate a fuse box under the dash like this? A normal size person must contort painfully underneath the dash, figure how the fuse block cover comes off; then actually SEE the fuse that has the problem.

Well, it happens that even with or without reading glasses, my face ends up so close to the fuse block that ... well, I can't even imagine someone with 20/20 being able to see or read the fuses. The front seat doesn't go back far enough to allow maneuvering space for a good viewing angle. One can get the layout from the panel, cover diagram, but ya really need to be able to look at BOTH the panel diagram and fuses. Moreover, once one gets the fuse panel cover off, (1) one can't see well enough up there to (again) see which fuse needs to be pulled and (2) it's so tight in there it takes a microsurgeon to get the flippin' panel cover back on!!

Alas, I have an appointment at 730 Monday morning at the Toyota dealer to get both bad fuses replaced. I'll be interested to know their techique, and this being such STUPID design by Toyta on an otherwise smartly designed car, I'm extremely disappointed. What should be a three minute, $15.00 job requires a shop tech. to both replace the fuses and the cover, for which I'll now pay $60.00 at least.

If anyone has a magic solution, sharing would be much appreciated.
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 02:43 PM
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On the 2009 owner;s manual, in do it your self maintaince, you could see fuses 8 and 11 on page 395, 396.

Check your manual for a similar page for yours. If you don't have the manual, it is probably available, or pointed to, on this site.

Ask a neighboring kid who might want to crawl under. An official fuse puller or needle nose pliers might help.
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 03:47 PM
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Re: Interior fuse block

Quote:
Originally Posted by paularmstrong4
I had the recent misfortune of purchasing an electric appliance that plugs into the 12 volt sockets at the front or back of my 2007 RAV4. It blew both fuses assigned to these sockets. The fuses are located in the fuse block located under the dirvers side dash. On most cars, this would be an easy fix ... but ...

Now the punchline: What moron decided to locate a fuse box under the dash like this? A normal size person must contort painfully underneath the dash, figure how the fuse block cover comes off; then actually SEE the fuse that has the problem.

Well, it happens that even with or without reading glasses, my face ends up so close to the fuse block that ... well, I can't even imagine someone with 20/20 being able to see or read the fuses. The front seat doesn't go back far enough to allow maneuvering space for a good viewing angle. One can get the layout from the panel, cover diagram, but ya really need to be able to look at BOTH the panel diagram and fuses. Moreover, once one gets the fuse panel cover off, (1) one can't see well enough up there to (again) see which fuse needs to be pulled and (2) it's so tight in there it takes a microsurgeon to get the flippin' panel cover back on!!

Alas, I have an appointment at 730 Monday morning at the Toyota dealer to get both bad fuses replaced. I'll be interested to know their techique, and this being such STUPID design by Toyta on an otherwise smartly designed car, I'm extremely disappointed. What should be a three minute, $15.00 job requires a shop tech. to both replace the fuses and the cover, for which I'll now pay $60.00 at least.

If anyone has a magic solution, sharing would be much appreciated.
No magic solution and I agree it is a bad design, almost as if they never expected anyone to get to it.
When I installed an auto-diming mirror I thought I would I would use a fuse tap circuit. I located an accessory fuse in the fuse block after contorting and looking at the fuse cover. I also looked in the 2009 user manual and found that the cover and the manual do not always agree. I assume that the cover is accurate and that the manual is probably the data from a previous year. Anyhow, I had to abandon the fuse tap idea because I could not find anyone that sold a mini-fuse low profile tap adapter. Also removing the fuses is no easy chore. A standard fuse puller does not seem to work on these low profile mini fuses.

The only solution I can think of is to get some powerful cheaters (reading glasses) and some Ben Gay for your neck for the next day.
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 08:00 AM
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And I thought it was just me all along. I had a fuse blow for my 12v outlets as well, and after seeing where they were, it was off to the dealer. Thank goodness it is under warranty. What were the designers thinking?
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-20-2009, 04:41 PM
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My technique...

I have a black & decker workmate...that I position next to the door sill. (in the lowered position. I put a boat cushion over it...and lay on my back so I can get my head under the dash...and remain somewhat comfortable.

Then I put two sets of reading glasses on. One on top of the other.

You need some little pliers...cause those little stinkers are hard to get a hold on.

Hope that helps.
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 04:43 PM
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What kind of current draw did these appliances have? I just picked up a 15 amp air compressor before I realized the front and rear outlets are supposed to be 10 amp max. However the actual fuse for each circuit (which appears to have nothing else on it) is 15 amp so should I be ok?
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhoi_584th
What kind of current draw did these appliances have? I just picked up a 15 amp air compressor before I realized the front and rear outlets are supposed to be 10 amp max. However the actual fuse for each circuit (which appears to have nothing else on it) is 15 amp so should I be ok?
The one in the console box and the one in the back are on the same fuse.

When say a "15 amp air compressor" that its rating is 15 amps, or its fuse is 15 amps. If the fuse, you should be OK.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 08:08 PM
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So the center stack is on one 15 A fuse, while the center console and rear are on a different 15 A? Good to know the center console and rear are together.

The compressor is http://www.amazon.com/Industries-HV4...3577963&sr=8-2. The compressor itself says 12 VDC, 15 A. Though actually looking in the manual it says max current is 14 A for the compressor so who knows which is correct. The compressor's personal fuse is 20 A.
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhoi_584th
So the center stack is on one 15 A fuse, while the center console and rear are on a different 15 A? Good to know the center console and rear are together.

The compressor is http://www.amazon.com/Industries-HV4...3577963&sr=8-2. The compressor itself says 12 VDC, 15 A. Though actually looking in the manual it says max current is 14 A for the compressor so who knows which is correct. The compressor's personal fuse is 20 A.
I don't know what I would do. You have read the thread. If you blow a fuse, you will know how to deal with it. I would guess that you would minimize the chance of blowing the fuse by starting the compressor when it is not under pressure. I would not increase the fuse in the RAV4 to 20 amps. I have seen the wire, and it is not bigger than 18 gauge, I am pretty sure.
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 03:22 AM
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Fixed

I handled the problem very 'scientifically.' I took the RAV to Russell Toyota in Catonsville, MD. Waited an hour. They fixed the fuze and even charged it under warranty. Back in business. I think a couple of contributors' thoughts combined to form a conclusion here.
1. Not all 'cigarette lighter' appliances are appropriate for all 12V systems. Gotta watch the amps. I think cell phones, GPS's and my car vac are about as adventurous as I want to get.
2. I'm thinking about running a slave cable (rated up to 30 amps) off my battery just like I have on my motorcycle. It allows independent attachment of appliances (like air pumps, etc) that will depend on it's own fuse. That way one isn't risking the fragile electrical infrastructure of the car, not to mention the potential of 'contorted' repair projects.

I wanted to thank 'chuggs' for having me in stitches. Toyota should put out such instructions: "Tools required for interior fuze change on 07 RAV4: 1 Black and Decker Workmate; 1 boat cushion, 1 boat (to get the cushion from), 2 pairs of reading glasses, a fuse puller and 1 bottle of Ibuprophen.

Thanks to all for their comments.

Paul
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