Need advice on use with craftsman jack stands

[pepepeter]

Hi Folks,

I have a pair of crafstman 3 ton high lift jack stands that have the u shape mounts along with a craftsman 2 1/4 ton floor jack (see pics if unfamiliar).

I need some advice that points out where these stands can be placed to support the rav4 during transmission drain/refill, transfer case and rear diff fluid maintenance. Of course just need them to hold up and keep up during the entire maintenance, mainly to loosen the bolts.

Thanks.

[Shep426]

In the front under the lower control arms as far out towards the outside of the car as possible. Rear, about the same thing, under the control arms, look under the truck you will see what's what.

[djb383]

I'd place the jack under the front/center jacking/lifting point shown in the owner's manual, jack it up and then place the jack stands under the side jacking/lifting points behind the front wheels, again as shown in the owner's manual. There's also a rear/center jacking/lifting point shown in the owner's manual as well as side jacking/lifting points ahead of the rear wheels where 2 more jack stands can be placed.

[pepepeter]

thanks for the reply.. although i gotta say both direct to different areas of the rav4.

Not clear where exactly to place jack stands when targeting the control arms.. pics??

Im clear on the locations of where the jack should be placed in the front/rear, but those spots for the jack stands where the manual recommends for the OEM jack doesnt seem safe considering the jack stands are u shaped and the flimsy sheet metal. Is it safe to use these OEM lift points with u shaped jack stands???

[Shep426]

Agreed the u shaped jack will most likely contact a non supportive area. Look under the truck as I said at the lower arms, front and rear it will be evident where to put them, DJB383 is correct on the jacking points, just telling you how we do this in my shop when not using a lift.

[pepepeter]

awesome thanks.. will give this a try when ready to switch out the diff fluids.

[vanib]

Here's what I did. I just rolled the car onto ramps to loosen the filler plugs and drain bolts. I then drove the RAV to flat surface (aka grass near the curb), and did all the dirty work there. I am a 225 lbs guy, 5'8" and there is enough clearance to work under the RAV for drain/refill of transaxle and rear diff. I had 17" tires on at the time.

No matter which way you go, remember that the RAV has to be horizontal at time of refill.

BTW, my 2.5 ton floor jack, which I have used on many cars, did not even reach the front and rear jacking points of the RAV when fully extended Test yours before you start the job.

[avs]

If i were you, i would not use the jackstand at all. There's no safe place to put it underneath the car. I use the rhino ramps with most of things I do underneath the car that doesn't involve wheel removal. To change the rear diff fluid, back your car up to the ramp. Loosen the top plug then bottom plug let it drain. Jack the front of the car up using your hydraulic jack to sort of level the car if you need to. Place several 2x4 underneath the wheel just to be safe. For the tranny and transfercase fluid, you do the opposite.

[Shep426]

Originally Posted by avs

If i were you, i would not use the jackstand at all. There's no safe place to put it underneath the car. I use the rhino ramps with most of things I do underneath the car that doesn't involve wheel removal. To change the rear diff fluid, back your car up to the ramp. Loosen the top plug then bottom plug let it drain. Jack the front of the car up using your hydraulic jack to sort of level the car if you need to. Place several 2x4 underneath the wheel just to be safe. For the tranny and transfercase fluid, you do the opposite.

Guess we will agree to disagree on the no safe place, properly(* note the properly*) placed under the control arms toward the outer part of the arm there is no way this is a problem. You are of course correct on the issue of being level, a lift is ideal or all 4 wheels supported evenly.

[Freedom55]

I have similar jack stands and I just used a piece of 2"X3" (2"X4" would be ideal), made a slot about 3/8" wide by 5/8" deep on top across the grain, very important as not to split the wood while jacking, with two slots underneath that I made with a wood chisel. The piece of wood stays in place on the jack stand and it prevents damaging the fin where the car jack would go. I did this way back in 1976! A rubber pad would do the trick too.

These jack stands are actually axle stands and they are not really made for unibody vehicles but a simple mod can prevent bending the fins. If you search the forum, there a few threads on this.

Note: you should have gotten a high lift floor jack as well as the front and rear central jacking points allow to lift the whole front or rear of the vehicle; very handy for seasonal tire change or brake job! You might be O.K. with the front as it's lower but the rear needs almost 20" if I remember well. My floor jack is about 18" and I have to shim under the jack wheels with a piece of wood to lift the rear.