Join Date: May 2008
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
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The drill on the bow and stern lines is that the bow line should go from the bow to the car and should ideally fasten to the car more rearward so that it prevents forward movement. the nylon loops with a brass gromet on them are good for this, you open the hood, remove a bolt on the fender line and bolt them down. when in use you flip them up between the fender and the hood and when not in use you fold them down and they are not visible. The stern line should fasten at the stern and slant forward to fasten to the car thereby keeping the kayk from sliding aft.
Reasonable advice, but like the last poster, I prefer the bow line to attach forward on the vehicle (which it usually does with the Rav4 anyway). This geometry generally does a better job of keeping the bow from lifting up than if the bow line is attached further back. This will end up keeping the boat from sliding backward on the vehicle. With that in mind, I usually attach a stern line so that it attaches to the vehicle further back than the attachement point on the kayak. This then keeps the kayak from sliding forward on the vehicle. To do this, the forward attachment point can be right on the bow of the kayak (using the grab loops) but the rearward attachment needs to be on something else (e.g., deck lines on a kayak, seat or thwart on a canoe).
I am a big fan of using straps attached to the fender bolts (i.e., inside the engine compartment). This keeps the attachment points nice and close to the bow of the boat(s).