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#21 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickl View Post

If the high beams flashed on and off with the test you performed, I would consider that test successful. Now you need to proceed with test #2.
Thanks Rickl. Proceeded to test #2. When my helper started the engine I could hear a clear click from the relay box and when the engine was turned off another click. I am not entirely certain but I also think that I could feel relay no 2. operating with my fingertip.

This is interesting. Do all halogen bulbs rated 12 V also produce light at 6V? - I have no idea what brand of bulbs I have in my Rav.
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#22 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Legioona View Post
Thanks Rickl. Proceeded to test #2. When my helper started the engine I could hear a clear click from the relay box and when the engine was turned off another click. I am not entirely certain but I also think that I could feel relay no 2. operating with my fingertip.

This is interesting. Do all halogen bulbs rated 12 V also produce light at 6V? - I have no idea what brand of bulbs I have in my Rav.
The #2 relay should only click if the ECM is requesting the DRL's to turn on. Since the relay is clicking, and we know all the wiring is correctly installed from the first test, I can't see any reason that you DRL's are not working.

Just to make sure we haven't missed something simple, you did confirm that when doing the high beam flash test, that BOTH right and left high beams came on?

Do you have a voltmeter or better yet a 12v test light?. If you are willing to continue testing i can try to provide you with more in depth testing.

All incandescent bulbs will run at reduced brightness as the voltage is reduced. Halogen is just a type of incandescent bulb designed to increase the life of the filament. Ohms law says that 2 devices with the same resistance, when placed in series across a voltage source, will each have 1/2 of the voltage source across them.

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#23 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickl View Post
The #2 relay should only click if the ECM is requesting the DRL's to turn on. Since the relay is clicking, and we know all the wiring is correctly installed from the first test, I can't see any reason that you DRL's are not working.

Just to make sure we haven't missed something simple, you did confirm that when doing the high beam flash test, that BOTH right and left high beams came on?

Do you have a voltmeter or better yet a 12v test light?. If you are willing to continue testing i can try to provide you with more in depth testing.

All incandescent bulbs will run at reduced brightness as the voltage is reduced. Halogen is just a type of incandescent bulb designed to increase the life of the filament. Ohms law says that 2 devices with the same resistance, when placed in series across a voltage source, will each have 1/2 of the voltage source across them.
Hi again,

Yes I can confirm that both high beams work.

I have a voltmeter and a switch with led light that I can set up as a test light (just have to attach wires to it). I would be happy to do some testing if you have ideas how to continue.

I would assume that incandescent bulbs have some kind of minimum voltage where they produce no light at all. I would be surprised if a 12 V halogen would light up with 1V, for example. I might be wrong here, though...
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#24 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 02:54 PM
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Yes I can confirm that both high beams work.
You are looking directly into the headlights and not just looking at the flash on the garage door? This is important because both the low and high beams flash when you pull on the dimmer. The high beams are nearest the center of the grill, and the low beams are closest to the fenders.
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I have a voltmeter and a switch with led light
You will use the voltmeter, because a LED will light at very low voltages which are meaningless in this circuit. You will also use the attached drawing to find the pin numbers of the relay sockets. Since I have no idea of your level of expertise I have to offer the usual warning that whatever you do is at your own risk, I can't be held responsible for any damage which may occur,

We will start with just a few steps at a time. Start by unplugging DRL #3 and DRL #4 relays. With the headlights off, start the engine. Read the voltages at Pin #3 of DRL #3, and at Pin #5 of DRL #4. They should both read 12v.

Now plug in DRL #3 and recheck the voltage on Pin #5 of DRL #4, it should read 6V. Advise me of your findings.
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#25 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 04:45 AM
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Hi

I did some testing

Engine on - headlights switched off
Pin # 3 DRL #3 : 0V
Pin #5 DRL #4: 0V

Turned headlights on and switched the dimmer switch to high beams

Pin # 3 DRL #3 : 14V
Pin #5 DRL #4: 0V

I then put both relays back to their slots to once again check that the beams work ok and noticed all four filaments (both highs and both lows) burning at the same time (headlights still switched on and dimmer switch set to high beams).

Is it normal to have all four filaments lit up at the same time - I would have assumed that when the high beams are used low beams are automatically turned off to save power?
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#26 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Legioona View Post
Engine on - headlights switched off
Pin # 3 DRL #3 : 0V
Pin #5 DRL #4: 0V
That would indicate that DRL #2 is not getting the DRL request from the ECM. To test this, unplug DRL #2. Connect your meter between Pin #2 of the relay socket and the POSITIVE post of your battery. Turn on your High beams and you should see 12 volts. Turn on the low beams only and you should read 0V. Now turn off the headlights and start the engine, you should read 12v. If you don't read 12V move one meter lead from the POSITIVE battery terminal to the NEGATIVE terminal and take another reading.

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Turned headlights on and switched the dimmer switch to high beams

Pin # 3 DRL #3 : 14V
Pin #5 DRL #4: 0V
That information conflicts with what we already know. Both readings should have been ~12V. Perhaps a poor connection produced the 0V reading. I will have to ponder this.

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Originally Posted by Legioona View Post
IIs it normal to have all four filaments lit up at the same time - I would have assumed that when the high beams are used low beams are automatically turned off to save power?
That is normal. That is why I asked you to look into the reflectors to be sure the high beams were working, rather than looking at the beam of light on the garage wall which could have been the low beams alone.

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#27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 03:02 AM
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New set of readings

DRL No. #2 Pin #2

Low beams on and high beams off - 0V
Low and high beams on 14V
Low beams and high beams off 0V

----

Looking at p. 137 in the wiring diagrams it appears that my Main Body ECU will always activate HRLY (low beams) when DIM (high beams) is activated. My interpretation of the diagrams is that when HRLY is inactive and DIM active the high beams operate in series (DRL mode).

Thus, it appears that the problem is rooted inside the ECU?
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#28 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 09:40 AM
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The HEAD relay is operated when a ground is applied by the HRLY lead. This occurs when either the high or low beams are active. When the DRL's should be on, the ground is removed and 12v is applied, which makes the HEAD relay release.

The DIM lead has a ground applied when the high beams are on, or the DRL's should be on. The circuit is open when the low beams are on. This is the signal you were measuring on Pin #2 of DRL #2.

Since you see the voltages changing on pin #2 of DRL #2, we know that there are no broken wires causing the problem.

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Originally Posted by Legioona View Post
Thus, it appears that the problem is rooted inside the ECU?
I think you have the answer. Perhaps you should have a second look at turning on the DRL's with the Techstream application. If the DRL's are indeed turned on in the app, all I can think of is that your ECM has a different version of firmware, and that doesn't seem likely, but hey, it's Toyota.

If you really want DRL's you could use a couple of additional relays to apply ground to the DIM lead whenever the ignition was on, and headlights were not on.

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#29 (permalink) Old 02-01-2013, 09:01 AM
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I think you have the answer. Perhaps you should have a second look at turning on the DRL's with the Techstream application. If the DRL's are indeed turned on in the app, all I can think of is that your ECM has a different version of firmware, and that doesn't seem likely, but hey, it's Toyota.
Hi, I today I found time to hook up the Techstream and confirmed that the DRLs are turned on. I also tried to turn them off and then on again with no visible results (in terms of DRLs lighting up).

I does appear that Toyota has some parameters hidden in the ECU firmware that apparently cannot be accessed by the user (or most dealers). These parameters would seem to include at least:

* DRL (in addition they need to be enabled with the customize parameters accessible via Techstream)
* five annoying beeps at startup if not buckled up

It would be so sweet if somebody would find a way to access & modify these...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickl View Post

If you really want DRL's you could use a couple of additional relays to apply ground to the DIM lead whenever the ignition was on, and headlights were not on.
Agree. It would be quite simple to set this up. Maybe I'll find the motivation to do this someday... maybe not
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#30 (permalink) Old 02-01-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Legioona View Post
Hi, I today I found time to hook up the Techstream and confirmed that the DRLs are turned on. I also tried to turn them off and then on again with no visible results (in terms of DRLs lighting up).
I know that DRL's are mandatory in Canada, but I know many members is the US also have them, so you would think that all RAV's are configured the same in North America. Yet with all the testing you have done, it appears that the signal just isn't being sent on the lead from the ECM. This is even more unusual since you were able to make the changes in the Techstream software.

Hopefully we will come across a clue sometime in the future.

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