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| 4.3 Exterior Tires, Wheels, Lights, Spoilers, Flares, Bars, Tow Hitches, etc. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Country: Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Socal
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Opinion needed.
I have toyota OEM tow hitch installed on the car. Now, trying to decide which Ball mount to buy. At first, I have checked part PT791-00842. A part guy in toyota dealership told, this is only the ball itself, and I need to buy a Ball mount bar. All together around $80. By the way, at the same time on TRDsource.com a picture shows tow ball installed on the tow mount bar for $17. I’m going to call TRDsource to check what they actually sell. Meantime, is it worth to spend $80 for Toyota ball mount bracket and a ball or just buy from PEP Boys for 25 bucks all together and be done with it? My concern is how good is fit of 2’’ x 2’’ square. Then better fit then less knocks from back when towing. And the second, ball mounts bars have different distance between locking pin hole and the ball axis. There 8.500 inch and 10.250. Which one is more practical? Thank you, leorav4 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Country: Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: State of Confusion
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Lots of experience towing, here, but don't have a hitch on the RAV yet, so can't answer your specific questions.
However, I can make a suggestion or three. Besides the distance from the pin to the ball, you also need to be concerned about the height of the ball mount. If you have a trailer already, it is best to set up your hitch for your trailer. Level out the trailer and measure from the ground to the top of the inside of the coupler, the part that sits on the hitch ball. Now measure from the ground to the top of the 2" opening of your hitch. Subtract 3". That is the amount of rise (or drop) that you need in your ball mount. Let's say that your trailer coupler measures 18" and your hitch is 13". The difference is 5". Subtract 3" (the height of the ball), you will need a 2" rise. If you have a RAV with a spare tire on the back door, you might want the longer hitch (10.25"). That will position the tongue jack (if so equipped) a bit farther away from the spare. If you plan on pulling a heavier trailer that will have more tongue weight, be aware that the longer hitch will also provide a bit more leverage on the hitch, so you might want to take steps to reduce that a bit. Any drawbar and ball from Pep Boys, Tractor Supply Company, Lowe's, Auto Zone, yes, even Wal-Mart, will do just fine. I don't know what is so special about the TRD model to justify its extra cost. . |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
Country: Join Date: Jan 2010
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Not too much to add from the last post except to second his comments on height for a level trailer including the tongue weight.
I have a Valley 2" receiver and have done some towing with it. I wouldn't recommend the long bar unless you have an odd trailer with a very short tongue. I have no problem with the spare tire getting in the way using the standard length. I doubt there's any better fit with the TRD mount in the 2" receiver than any of the others. Mine rattled some until I wrapped it with a layer or so of duct tape. My cost was zero since I found it laying on the road!! Also saw today the mention on a hitch tightener, essentially a u-bolt & plate you tighten at the hitch.
__________________
Fred __________________ 2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Red Limited 2006 Accord V6 Hybrid - quick as the RAV but +8 mpg 1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip 2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer 2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!! |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
As I stated first thing, I don't even have a hitch on her RAV yet. . |
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#5 (permalink) |
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For the hitch, for sure go with Toyota's. For the ball and tongue (short one since most trailers including the UHaul crappy ones are long), you can get it from any truck supply store. It's cheaper and you can get ones that handles more weight. Mine handles 6,500lbs which I'll never use. I also got a chrome one which my friends make fun of me because this car doesn't tow often and it's always shiny (from lack of use) which they call "the bling".
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Cars, snowboarding, house modding. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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I bought the ball mount below and am pleased with the fit and placement of the ball.
HTH a bit, Tommy LINK: Ball Mount 4" Rise or 6" Drop - Extra Long Curt Ball Mounts D-28 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Wow, that's quite a drop & rise!
Safe to assume you have a specific trailer in mind? It wouldn't work with most trailers. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Why the "... wouldn't work with most trailers.."? Tommy |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I'm most familiar with travel and cargo trailers which have a tongue height about level with my RAV4 and require a couple inches drop with my F-250s. Your boat trailer must be set up to tow level with a pickup thus needing the rise with the RAV4.
__________________
Fred __________________ 2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Red Limited 2006 Accord V6 Hybrid - quick as the RAV but +8 mpg 1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip 2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer 2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!! Last edited by Dr. Dyno; 02-17-2012 at 08:22 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Country: Join Date: Nov 2011
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Thank you for reply.
I bought a Reese standard ball mount +.75, -2.00 in and 8.50 inch distance between locking pin hole and center of the ball. It fits acceptable. Except, when installed, rear edge of the 2x2 is 1 inch short of the end of the trailer hitch. For better alignment and less shock, 2x2 part of the ball mount needs to be 1 in longer from pin hole to rear edge. And around clearance about .03 or so. It will knock when towing. I wonder, if oem toyota ball mount has more precise fit or it is the same. Thank you, leorav4 |
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