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| 4.3 Exterior Tires, Wheels, Lights, Spoilers, Flares, Bars, Tow Hitches, etc. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Country: Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 101
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Hey everyone, I'm in the market to add some rectangular off road looking lights to my factory roof bars, but all I see online are clamps that clamp onto a round bar. Do they make clamps to fit rectangular bars like ours? I am trying to avoid drilling into my current bars to prevent future rust problems.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
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I had a potentially decent idea about spot/flood lights, have a look at my album. I also had a thread so if you can find it under my profile that would give you a good idea.
Sent from my HTC One X+
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-----2012 V6 Sport, Tow Prep, & 4x4----- HU: JVC KW-NT800HDT & back-up cam, JDM HID Projector Headlights w/Toshiba D4S Bulbs, JDM Vanguard Tail Lights Front DRL's, LED Bumper Park/Brake lights, Red "SPORT" Theme ------------------------------ ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
Country: Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Nova Scotia
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Check out my album.....when I had my 4.1 it had high roof racks, so I was able to mount the driving lites under the bars, so I could still put my canoe up there. As I recall, I mounted the lites using hose clamps and then covered the clamps with electrical tape, to remain black. I brought the wires down the "B" pillar and grounded one to a hinge bolt, and ran the hot lead in thru the speaker wire bellows of the second row doors, and to the fuse panel in the dash, by way of a relay c/w switch. I also used a second switch to bring hi-beam voltage to the relay control, so the drv lites were on with the hi-beams.....saved a lot of manual switching....
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-Jim Red Gloves Rule _ 99 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Country: Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 101
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just checked them out....i really like the house clamp idea so i dont have to drill into my cross bars, but i would put something in between the clamp and the bars so it wouldnt damage them if i ever removed them. and i would probably run the wire along the roof towards the trunk, then snake and tuck it in in the interior and then to the fuse box. thanks for the help guys!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Advanced Member
Country: Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Nova Scotia
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Keep in mind, the longer the wires the less current and voltage to the lites.....hence less candlepower.....(also why the relay)
When I brought the wires down the "B" pillar I covered them with electrical tape and you couldn't see them with the doors open, and the doors covered them when closed......of course the "B" pillars were satin black so helped to blend in.... BTW: the same lites were so much better on the bar than on the bumper. With the 4.1 the forward bar was set back just right so no light fell on the hood.....which is a consideration....
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-Jim Red Gloves Rule _ 99 |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Country: Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
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J3T, those are so nice! I am looking at a fairly cheap pair from amazon just to add some additional lighting when working from the truck or for camping purposes, not for driving purposes where I need such an expensive light set up lol
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Country: Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 101
Thanks: 4
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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okay well i picked out on amazon which lights i am going to purchase, and here is my idea how to run them to the battery directly. I would mount the lights on the front cross bar on the roof using the hose clamp method. then i would run the wire along the roof, back towards the trunk and into the interior up towards the driver seat. from there i would mount a switch and run the wires into the battery from the factory wiring tubes. My only question is, should i/do i need a relay and harness for these lights? here are the lights i am going to be using :
Navigator NV-1204" x 6" Clear Fog Light with Stone Guard and Cover : Amazon.com : Automotive I plan on mounting 4 of these onto the front bar, and possibly 2 on the rear bar facing backwards eventually for rear lighting. |
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