My 09 did same thing. Dealership couldn't figure it out, shops couldn't figure it out ... My friend did figure it out!
Latch that holds trunk closed gets loose over time. Get wooden block, place it against latch ( place were door lock actually locks ) and hit it (wooden block) a few times with a hammer. That should bring it closer to the body on the car. Then I would tighten it up and check that trunk closes fine. Make sure you don't over do it.
You can also loosen up screws, position it closer in and tighten everything up. But that's less fun.
I think its a flaw of trunk door and that's why they moved away from that design.
There is very little space to work with regarding the latch catch itself, otherwise it could be removed and the latch's mounting holes extended slightly towards the rear so that the door would latch more tightly. A more promising possibility is with the plastic block which is mounted down from the latch, as there is more material to work with. The mounting holes could be enlarged towards the front so that when it is remounted it would fit more tightly into the recess in the rear door. I haven't had that squeaking rear door problem with my RAV so haven't tried either solution, but with a rattling rear door on a previously-owned hatchback I used the second possibility (with a similar plastic block setup) and it stopped the noise.
That's not the door dude....the door does not have that much play on it to be squeaking like that. I have the same problem but not nearly as severe as yours - my squeaks are much quicker or tighter than those of yours - I think your at an advance stage of what ever is going on.
OMG is this what I have to look forward too......
I started not too long ago an ongoing post regarding this matter
Ive read all those posts - applied the silicone spray to the rubber seal all around - taken the tire off and driven around with no discernible difference in the noise - lubed the catch mechanism as well as the guide ( actually completely removed the guide) with no luck.
While at the shop my mechanic closed the back door on cardboard to stop any looseness or vibration and test drove... that did nothing either. The mechanic even used a needle head on the grease gun and poked and injected every rubber boot he could see on the suspension.
Make no mistake this is a suspension related noise. Its rubber type material squawking away with the movement of the wheel.....
After doing some more research earlier today I had realized that some thing was missed during the needle point grease application and I think this just may be the culprit. The mechanic didn't take any thing apart while lubing - this bushing may be the root of all evil......LOL
If it wasn't so damn cold up here I'd be at it right now trying it out.....
P.S I am getting a slight clanking sound on top of the squeaking sound or with in it... they could be 2 different things going on - the door may very well be ever soo slightly clanking - but the squawking is definitely under the car.
I did try pushing down the suspension jumping on my hitch and no sound what so ever !
even went inside the cargo door close jumping back and forth ... nothing ...
I pretty much ignore rubbing noise until last Friday. Since I've new struts and shocks, I ruled them out immediately after my daughter told me the noise came from the back close to the door. I opened the back door and checked all the metal to metal contacts. Found a couple contacts where rubbing marks were severe. I think the guide metal contact right below the door lock was causing the creak. Greased them and no more noise after that. Wish I could find Wurth HHS-K locally. I heard this grease will not attract dust/crud.
I grease all these contact points and hinges every year. Just cheap maintenance. If you want a thick durable grease, use Silglyde or silicone-based grease. I found that Fluid Film also does not attract dust and is easy to spray.
My recently bought 2011's rear door had a clunky, sloppy sound when closing it. There are supposed to be two rubber bumpers (same as the plastic blocks mentioned by Blogson?) for the door to press against when closed, but the top one was missing. I jury-rigged a replacement which fixed the problem.
Its great to see that your problem has been resolved - I read about the tape fix some time ago. Tried it a while back and again after watching your videos - Doesn't work for me... mind you my squeak is not nearly as bad as your was.
I think I may have a bad bushing down under the back or maybe a couple bad spot welds or the glue has let go where that 2 metal parts contacting are some how squawking away.
Nothing comes easy for me...LOL
Great advice thanks. I've been having the same squeaky rear door in my 2011 RAV4. So I lubed the rear door seal with silicon lube and tightened the torx bolts on the latch, d-loop and support plate (they were not very tight) and silence. Will see how long it lasts. It may become a regular maintenance task ...
For me it was the weatherstripping. I used Kleen-flo holistic rubber care and since I didn't have any silicone spray I used some Armor All. Then I cleaned the door where the seal contacts it with a Lysol wipe (it was all I had handy). The styrofoam cooler squeaking sound is gone. We'll see how long it lasts but that was the culprit on mine.
I tried to tape the latch and I greased the guide and I greased all the rubber stoppers and nothing. Removed all loose stuff and checked the jack and tools and nothing. I completely removed the spare tire and it made no difference.
However now I can hear all the other places it rattles and creaks....
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Toyota RAV4 Forums
993.1K posts
147.9K members
Since 2004
Rav 4 World is the internet's largest Toyota Rav4 SUV and EV online forum community. Discuss towing, modifications, and more.