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Mod: How to make your 12 volt outlets "hot" at all times

110K views 83 replies 43 participants last post by  aesterling 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a pretty simple mod that will allow your 12 volt power outlets in the console and cargo areas to be hot even when the ignition switch is off. The power outlet below the A/C controls will not be affected--it's on a different circuit and will still be tied to the ignition.

Start by removing the panel above the hood release. If you're careful, you can use a thin blade screwdriver to pop it loose on the right hand side. Use a rag to keep from scratching the adjacent panel. Once you get that top right corner loose, you can pull the panel towards you and remove it:



Notice the 3 blue relays on the left. The relay we want is the one in the middle.



Remove the power relay by pulling it straight out. You may have to rock it back and forth a bit. To make it easier for my big hands, I removed the pink IG1 relay first.



Now that the relay is out, you can see how I soldered a jumper wire across the copper colored contacts. This completes the circuit to the power outlets regardless of whether the relay is picked up or not.



Try to solder the jumper wire as close to the relay housing as possible, so it can be re-inserted into the socket.



Others have left the relay out and inserted a jumper wire across the relay socket. That works fine but be sure to use the proper crimp connectors on the jumper. This is a handy mod if you want to use 12 volt accessories, especially in the cargo area.
 
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#2 ·
Please note that the wire should be at least 12ga or lower due to the fact the power outlets can handle 10A.
 
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#4 ·
Gbcue said:
Please note that the wire should be at least 12ga or lower due to the fact the power outlets can handle 10A.
I think that 18 AWG would be quite adequate for a 15 amp fused circuit. The rules and practices are much different for short automotive runs than for AC house wiring. Take a look at the wire size used to power the power taps. The existing wire to the front jack looks about like about #18 with thin insulation to me. I measured 1.4 mm OD on the wire insulation.

See the term "chassis wiring" in http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
 
#6 ·
I put a jumper in my 03 tacoma for the lower two of the three outlets, the upper still works off the ignition. I also mounted a switch next to the two outlets, breaking the ground, so I could shut them off when I wanted to.

I thought I had a pic, but I could not find it.
Here is a pic of the jumper, I reused the relay for the foglights I installed.


 
#9 ·
cerps said:
Dumb question, but how do you get the panel off to access the relays?
Very carefully. :D

This is what I wrote in the first post:

Start by removing the panel above the hood release. If you're careful, you can use a thin blade screwdriver to pop it loose on the right hand side. Use a rag to keep from scratching the adjacent panel. Once you get that top right corner loose, you can pull the panel towards you and remove it.
It pops out pretty easy. You can use a plastic pry tool or wrap the end of the screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent scratches.
 
#12 ·
I've been wanting to put a switch in the center area (next to the heated seat switch) to control those two outlets, but still haven't found a decent switch. Toyota must use in-house elves to build their switches.

Rick
 
#14 ·
Stranded copper. You can pick up insulated wire at any auto parts store that will fit the bill. I work on aircraft electronics all day so I just used a small section of some from the shop.

Rick
 
#17 · (Edited)
Thanks.....your modification worked nicely......now I can recharge my MP3 player and Cell without interruption.
I would also like to add that if the jumper method is used, as opposed to the shorted relay method, the relay which was removed can be used as fog light relay thereby saving the cost of buying a new one if someone is installing fog lights.
 
#19 ·
It will be the second relay from the bottom. You can verify this by unplugging the relay. Turn on the ignition and the console and cargo jacks should be dead.
 
#21 ·
And, there is the story of the fella who used a live ammo round when he blew his light circuit fuse. After successfully removing himself from the gene pool when the round exploded, he was nominated for the Darwin Award........ "course this story was eventually debunked by Snopes, but it sure rings true.....:)
 
#23 ·
Can anyone please assist.

I have just purchased a 2008 Rav4 (2.2D) and I cannot even find the fuse box you are refering to.
My car is obviously a RHD and the bonet release is by my right foot but their is nothing there that even comes close to looking like it comes apart. Does anyone know if I am even looking in the right place?

Many Thanks
Darren
 
#24 ·
In your case I believe you will find the relay panel behind the glove box.
 
#25 ·
JuneBug, used some 12AWG wire to attach a switch to the relay contacts. I think I want to take it a step farther though and incorporate the original relay, basically keeping the relay and having the switch as the jumper too, so it will work normally but have the option to be bypassed. As is, it is completely bypassed, but it was a really quick project.

Finding a switch to fit the knockouts is a pain in the butt. I was hoping I'd be able to simply hollow out a knockout, but that doesn't seem like it will work.
 
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#26 ·
There have been a few threads about trying to find switches that will fit. No one, to my knowledge, has located a good fit so far. I had the same thought that you did, but I've been unable to find a switch to make it work(Short of buying one from Toyota for $50-$75.)

Rick
 
#28 ·
I recently found a dealer that sells the fog light switch that mounts in the switch blanks. It's part number 00016-32230-02 and sells for about $20 here:

TRD Parts Center

The switch looks like this, but does NOT come with the connector:



This picture is from this Australian site that also sells Toyota switches:

Newpro-Tech
 
#29 ·
And the switch can handle 15A?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm no electrical engineer, but doesnt it make more sense to keep the relay but get a switch rigged to the low -current side( trigger side) of the relay... instead of taking the full- current jumper wires all the way to the switch and back?
 
#30 ·
That makes perfect sense, BUT, if you were to leave the switch on, then the relay would remain energized. It may only be a few hundred milliamp draw, but it would tend to drain your battery over an extended time period.
 
#32 ·
I just performed this mod with a twist. Found these "chair" adapters that happen to have exactly the correct size and spaced connectors. I just covered the back of the "chair" (if you will) with shrink tubing and then, after removing the OEM relay, I used a long nose plier to easily insert it. It went in like it was designed to fit there!
 

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