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Cluck from the rear. 2008 Rav4

11K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  JuneBug 
#1 ·
While going over bumps I could hear a cluck in the rear suspension. I got underneath and noticed I was missing the a bolt that was broken off.

See photo-




Would this cause the "cluck" being heard in your opinion? I was able to find the name, its the Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link.

Thanks,

Lawrence
 
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#2 ·
Yes, this is also called the anti-sway bar end link. They seem to rust out and break off up in snow country but not so much down here.
 
#3 ·
Thanks, Junebug

I will order the parts on Monday and will let you guy know how I make out.

Cheers,

Lawrence
 
#5 · (Edited)
I purchased the parts for 25.00$ (aftermarket). Call around for the parts. The prices was all over the map. The prices I got were 22$, 68$ 97$ and dealer at 170$ plus tax.

I tried to do the job yesterday without success. I think I need to drop the exhaust section down. Will let you know .

Lawrence
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
these pictures are perfect. Thanks Lawrence. One more question, is there a difference in the parts between the left and right rear links? I picked up one from advance auto and I couldnt find any indication whether there's a difference; the box didnt say L or R at all. Mine was the MOOG sway bar link KIT, and I also plan on replacing the right rear link (just like yours). Thanks again

-aL
 
#8 ·
Cococola,

When I ordered my sway bar link, I do not recall telling them right or left. So not sure..

If you look at the attachment. There maybe a right or left. Someone more knowledgeable may know for sure.


I also sprayed lube on the rubber hangers to help drop
Cheers,the exhaust.

Cheers,

Lawrence
 
#11 · (Edited)
SUCCESS! Thanks Lawrence!! It took me ~2 hours but I really took my time figuring things out (and taking pics). Here's the before pic, with the sway link "dangling":

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The new (MOOG K750257) and old parts compared:

Uploaded with ImageShack.com


And finally the top and bottom views of it installed:


Uploaded with ImageShack.com

Uploaded with ImageShack.com


I hope the pictures can help everyone out in need of changing these.

First, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Then drop the exhaust. For me, the hardest part was dropping the exhaust. You'll need to drop the exhaust only if you're working on the rear passenger link. That means unhooking the exhaust from these gigantic rubber bands underneath the car. There's two of them; 1 right below the bumper and another just a little further up. I learned this can be simplified by using a copious amount of detergent to lube, then a flat head screwdriver to expand that rubber band to finally unhook. It was probably harder for me because of the all rust that developed on that metal rod.

After the exhaust is out of the way, the photo lsettle posted with the vise-grips explained it best; just clamp the bolt directly behind the sway bar and loosen the nut with a socket wrench. I needed a breaker bar for this so keep that in mind; a little WD-40 also helps.

When you're done with the nut, the old sway bar link should come right out and then just put your new one in and install the new nut on top; you'll need an 18mm wrench to hold the bolt (just like the vise-grip did) as you tighten that top nut. Insert the bushings as shown by lsettle's pic. There should be one bushing on each side of the metal plate (arm). By the way, it looks like there's no difference in the part if you're replacing the rear left or right sway bar link.

I used another jack to raise the arm a little bit so i can tighten the 2nd nut from the bottom of the car. Tighten that bottom nut until it wont tighten.

Mount the exhaust back on to its two "rubber bands". It's easier than taking it off, just be sure to put some detergent/lube on that rubber band before you force that rod back in. I did the bumper one first, then the inner one last; seemed easier that way.

Pop the wheel back on and you're good to go.

Thanks to Lawrence (lsettle), JTRAV and the wonderful community of RAV4world for everything. :thumbs_up:
 
#12 ·
That Moog part looks to be a better design than the OEM. If it were me, I would have gone ahead and changed them both.
 
#13 ·
You're right JuneBug, installing the other side would be ideal. It's actually easier too since now I know how to do one side already. The only obstacle I have is that there's a lot of rust on the bolt on the left rear sway bar link. It would be challenging for me to remove the nut; I dont think i'm prepared physically and mentally. :) I'm going to wait and see if I can get by without doing anything (yet).
 
#15 ·
My left rear sway bar end link broke off yesterday. I replaced the rear right side about 3 years (As per this thread). I called the usual supplies and the dealership, $22.00, $28, and $138.00 respectively. Picking up the part either today or this evening. More to come! I should mention that I ordered the $22.00 version....

Cheers,

Lawrence
 
#16 ·
My left rear sway bar end link broke off yesterday. I replaced the rear right side about 3 years (As per this thread). I called the usual supplies and the dealership, $22.00, $28, and $138.00 respectively. Picking up the part either today or this evening. More to come! I should mention that I ordered the $22.00 version....
Too bad you didn't think to replace BOTH of them 3 years ago...
 
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