Looking for the best spot to but the jack stand on the rear of 2011 rav4. Tried near the rear tire but it couldn't go left to right i had to put it front to back and had to use the jack for extra support
That would be too easy for me. I'd just put the stand(s) under my Valley hitch receiver.
Since getting under a car is one of the most dangerous things I ever do, before I do I try my hardest to push the car off the stands. While working on the engine under a Honda Civic last week I had it on two stands with some weight on the jack and a big block of wood under each front wheel.
You can't be too careful.
Since getting under a car is one of the most dangerous things I ever do, before I do I try my hardest to push the car off the stands. While working on the engine under a Honda Civic last week I had it on two stands with some weight on the jack and a big block of wood under each front wheel.
You can't be too careful.
+1 !! Served as a chaplain's assistant partly in a hospital ER and saw patients brought in who hadn't taken adequate precautions and had vehicles fall onto them while working underneath, with some deadly outcomes.
For a full lift, I watched a Discount Tire shop use 4 floor jacks to lift my RAV almost in unison at the 4 side lift points. No harm was done to the pinch welds there. They did their business swapping winter tires, etc, with the jacks in place.
So I'm thinking since I can't do all four at one time, I could use my 2 floor jacks at home to lift from the front and rear center lift points. Then put my 4 jack stands in place at the side pinch weld areas, lower the weight onto the jack stands and call it good. I could also leave the front and rear floor jacks in place with some of the load for good measure. It's a lot of stuff, but that is the gear I've collected over the years, and do not wish to be squished by my RAV.
If you just need to lift the rear, block the front tires, lift from the center point and put jack stands at the side pinch weld areas. Keep the rear jack in place for good measure.
For a full lift, I watched a Discount Tire shop use 4 floor jacks to lift my RAV almost in unison at the 4 side lift points. No harm was done to the pinch welds there. They did their business swapping winter tires, etc, with the jacks in place.
So I'm thinking since I can't do all four at one time, I could use my 2 floor jacks at home to lift from the front and rear center lift points. Then put my 4 jack stands in place at the side pinch weld areas, lower the weight onto the jack stands and call it good. I could also leave the front and rear floor jacks in place with some of the load for good measure. It's a lot of stuff, but that is the gear I've collected over the years, and do not wish to be squished by my RAV.
If you just need to lift the rear, block the front tires, lift from the center point and put jack stands at the side pinch weld areas. Keep the rear jack in place for good measure.
The Discount Tire guys can get away with just using jacks, since they aren't getting underneath. When I'm rotating the tires, I get it up on all fours the same way you do.
You can try the area around the joint just forward of the rear wheel. (not ON the joint, but the framing around it.) Wherever you place the stands, make sure you have the front wheels blocked when you jack.
Yes, wheel chocks. And honestly, I've jacked the car (lifting only the one tire) at that pivot point, and yes, the bolt could take it. But I wouldn't recommend it anyway on principle. What i meant was to use the exposed frame around that point, or on the steel flange there.
I love the 2 jack points on the RAV. I have not done too much work on it to require safety (jack) stands. The FSM calls for stands to be placed on the pinch weld.
I made a custom jack stand pad using an electrical c channel with a hockey puck (with 3/8 in gap cut in the middle and bolted it on) sitting on top of my jack stand. It puts even pressure on each side of the pinch rails.
You also can use a receiver tube instead and cut one side open with a grinder.
AJ2411, here is my jack stand pad I made. You have to cut the hockey puck in half since it is not big enough. I think maybe it is just over 1/2 inch gap in the center but you need to make it wide enough so it does not get jammed in the pinch weld. The puck cost me only $1 and the metal u bracket I got free from a friend who is an electrician. You can also use a trailer coupler tube if that is easier to find but you need to cut it up with a grinder.
I typically do not jack or "stand" on the pinch weld. But I had a couple of guys do some work on their cars this winter in my garage, as I have one of the only snow free garages that you can work in amongst my friends. They both jack directly on the pinch weld with no negative results. In fact they showed me that the factory jack in fact supports 100% of the weight directly on the pinch, even though there is a slotted cradle which makes it appear that weight is spread. But slot however is shallow and is there to insure that the jack does not slip off the pinch. If you think about it, above the pinch is the sheet metal of the body panel. There is no way that it would be able to support the weight of the car.
I typically do not jack or "stand" on the pinch weld. But I had a couple of guys do some work on their cars this winter in my garage, as I have one of the only snow free garages that you can work in amongst my friends. They both jack directly on the pinch weld with no negative results. In fact they showed me that the factory jack in fact supports 100% of the weight directly on the pinch, even though there is a slotted cradle which makes it appear that weight is spread. But slot however is shallow and is there to insure that the jack does not slip off the pinch. If you think about it, above the pinch is the sheet metal of the body panel. There is no way that it would be able to support the weight of the car.
Wait, now I'm confused. I got your whole post until the very last sentence. You say "There is no way that it(the pinch weld, no?) would be able to support the weight of the car". But isn't that the exact spot the manual says to place a support(jack stand)?
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