Adjusting "Parking brake" and removing center console - Page 6 - Toyota RAV4 Forums
4.3 Mechanical Intakes, Exhaust, Tune-ups, 4x4 system, Suspension, Brakes, etc.

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#51 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 03:39 PM
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Good job - Thanks

What a great writeup on removing the center console. My wife set her wedding ring on the console and it fell through the slot in the boot for the parking brake lever. Gone! With your help on removing the console I managed to find the ring. It traveled down one of the support structure tunnels half way to the door and was not visible without removing the console, seat and pulling the carpet back and then using a dental mirror through one the holes in the tunnel to spot it. I'm sure the dealer would not have found it.
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#52 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 04:13 PM
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While trying to loosen the nuts on the cable in there, I dropped one of my small wrenches and it disappeared on me. I don't know when I will ever get to it!
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#53 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Termite View Post
While trying to loosen the nuts on the cable in there, I dropped one of my small wrenches and it disappeared on me. I don't know when I will ever get to it!
a magnetic reaching tool works wonders. . .

stock engine,
modified driver. .
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#54 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 07:50 PM
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Again.....good write up Ravaboy!

I adjusted the rear hand brake shoes on my 08 Rav Limited with little success. I also don't like the excessive amount of "clicks" before the shoes grab and they don't seem to hold very well either.
Since I was maxed out at the handle ,I decided to adjust the rear shoes by removing the rotor and sliding it back on until it was getting difficult to, then rotate the rotor to make sure there was no drag. (I've done this to many vehicles) Even with a tightly set shoe there is still too much movement in that handle for me and it doesn't hold the vehicle still on a hill. Whether you adjust the star wheel through the peep hole and back off, or remove the rotor and re-install,the result is the same. Adjust to get slight rubbing then back off a few clicks until no rubbing.
Soooo.....I will have to investigate whether I have a cable adjustment along the brake cable somewhere or I might have to do the RAVABOY method. Perhaps the cable has stretched , who knows, but I will get the slack out of the cable.
PS.....When I adjust my Corolla's rear brake shoes , it takes the slack out of the e-brake handle. That's one of the ways I can tell if the rear shoes need adjusting. I had this vehicle at the dealership for 2 recalls in the last year and both times the mechanic noted on my slip that "the rear brakes are adjusted too tight" . I'm surprised because all he had to do was turn my tires to see that weren't dragging at all. I'm guessing rookies.....In the old days.... ..... I saw a mechanic tighten the rear brake shoes till he could only spin the tire a half turn. Then he was happy. That sounds too tight to me but he said once you hit the brakes a few times, they aren't touching any more. That's still too tight for me....

Kevin

NB Canada

08 Rav Limited 4-cylinder

Amsoil synthetic oil
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#55 (permalink) Old 09-06-2013, 06:11 PM
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An olde thread I know but for me, very instructive as I am now experiencing excessive travel on the emergency brake lever on my 2010 Rav with 103,000 Kms on the clock

With regards to using the emergency brake ...or not when parking automatic transmission vehicles, I was advised by a transmission tech many years ago that when parking on an incline, be it slight or otherwise, the emergency brake should always be applied. That is to say, the weight of the vehicle when parked should not be borne by the tranny as over time this can lead to problems. On inclines he always advised that vehicle should be held on the foot brake, transmission placed in 'N', and handbrake (emergency) brake applied, then 'P' selected. Weight of the vehicle is then being held by the rear brakes and not the tranny. Should the brake slip/fail, fall back is the tranny. Have discussed this with a few techies since then and concensus has been that the above is good advice. From a logical point of view it makes sense to me, and replacement of brake components being a lot cheaper and easier than transmission replacement. This practice is sencond nature to me now. So far no tranny problems on any of my vehicles. I am sure there are those who will disagree, which is fine, but it works for me.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Last edited by Macadian; 09-06-2013 at 06:21 PM. Reason: typo
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#56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 08:04 PM
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Just a question about post 1. If you remove the coin/mirror adjustment panel, isn't that enought to adjust the cable tension? Why was the rest of the console removed?
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#57 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 09:01 PM
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In my 35+ years of professional wrenching, I have never adjusted a park brake (they are NOT emergency brakes!) to compensate for a loose park brake. This adjustment is set at the factory. That is why it was so difficult to get to. Things that need adjustment are usually easy to access. I'd leave well enough alone, since the end result is a tight park brake. The next time you feel like it needs adjusting, put the park brake adjustment back where it was and adjust the star wheels.

On a side note, are you drifting a lot, or driving with the park brake on? Those shoes are only meant to keep the vehicle from moving from a stop, so if they are worn down, then something is keeping the shoes applied. Be sure to adjust the shoes so there is NO drag. Any drag will be amplified as the shoes and drum heat up. The drum will decrease in ID and the shoes will expand, increasing the OD. These two combined will overheat grease seals, and cause the brake mechanism to overheat.

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#58 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 06:03 PM
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Garage
Why you removing center console? To adjusting parking brake is not enough to take out pocket/ mirrors adjuster?
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