Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: central oregon
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the i-throttle output is active, and might produce more drive current than the stock sensor, driving the input of the ecu to the desired voltage more quickly if there is any RC filtering on the ECU input. I don't know. I agree about the sample rate issue.
You can change the profile at any time the unit is on. a button cycles through the modes and the display indicates the one selected. there is a mode for no mod to the profile. There is also an output wire you can connect to the brake signal to shut down the throttle signal when the brake is activated to protection against the thing going wild and flooring the pedal. They say connecting it is optional. I'll have to find out if the feature of the vehicle that I think already does that works the way I expect.
When I said the sensor was "just a pot" I meant that it produces a linear analog voltage with travel. It might be a resistive element, but I suspect it is probably a Hall effect sensor and magnets like the cheap throttles on my electric bikes. If this is the case, the curve could be modified by adding or changing magnets. I'm not taking mine apart to find out.
My first car was an MG midget with a 1098cc engine that produced 65 hp. It had drive by wire too, but this was just one wire that pulled on the SU carbeuretor linkage. Worst carbs ever made, IMO.
Off to soak for a couple of days. Have fun all..
2012 V6 4WD Ltd.
if you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.