06 RAV4 spark plug change

[ShuckyD]

I purchased my 2006 RAV4 (base model 2.4 4 cyl. engine) back in 2008 with 33k miles on it and it was certified pre-owned and it just clicked over 100k miles, so now it's time I look at doing the plugs as I havent done them at all during the time I've owned it. It's had general maintenence done at various dealers and now will probably only be going back for oil changes as I'd like to see how difficult it is to do the plugs myself. I've worked on other vehicles I've owned like my Ford Ranger's, but have yet to work on an import car let alone this RAV before.

Can anyone tell me if it's a rather easy thing to replace 4 plugs in this engine if I were able to get it up on ramps or jacked up in a garage?

[Carbon]

Originally Posted by ShuckyD

Can anyone tell me if it's a rather easy thing to replace 4 plugs in this [2.4 4 cyl. ] engine if I were able to get it up on ramps or jacked up in a garage?

It would be easier if you left the vehicle on the ground. Should be easy on that engine. Avoid cross-threading. I like to rotate by hand CCW on installation of spark plugs until I feel the threads drop a tad. Then tighten by hand, and follow up with torque wrench.

On the V6, plug change interval is 120,000 miles. You might want to check the interval on your car. If you are not getting any symptoms, you may have more life on those plugs.

[Rav408]

Come on! It's probably harder to shave in the morning than it is to change plugs on a 4 cyl. Take the decorative cover off, remove the coils, pull out plugs, put in new ones, put back coils, put back cover. That must take a grand total of 10 minutes. Probably take you longer to go buy the plugs than replacing them.

[keeton]

Don't forget to use anti-sieze on the spark plug threads so you can get them out in the _next_ 100k miles.

[avs]

Originally Posted by keeton

Don't forget to use anti-sieze on the spark plug threads so you can get them out in the _next_ 100k miles.

Depend on which plug you put in. Most of the newer NGK iridium plugs are coated with some anti-seize plating from factory on the thread. They specially tell you not to put anti-seize compound on the thread.

[ShuckyD]

Ok so after a total of 20 minutes all four plugs are changed with new BOSCH Platinum +2 (4301) spark plugs... can anyone tell me if they're good to use since I saw a notice on the engine block to only use iridium plugs, etc... ?? I'm also planning on getting rid of the paper air filter and swapping it for a K&N..

The plugs were also white and charred at the tip (see attached pic) so I assume they were probably originals... not changed at 33k when I bought it certified.. but who knows, maybe they were... they were DENSO plugs and I didnt put anything on the new ones when I installed them, should I take it back apart and do it so it wont be a PITA to do in another 100k?

[Rav408]

It took you 20 minutes to replace them? What did you have a beer in one hand?

I wouldn't worry too much about the anti-seize. Many manufacturers already have it on (same as now most plugs come already gaped) and I never had a problem on my old Accord 4 bangers with plugs seizing even past 100K miles. It may be more of a problem with the iron blocks, dunno. I never used to use the anti-seize until recently and never really had a problem. If you didn't over torque them it shouldn't be a big deal. I go all the way back to points, condensers, and having to gap your own plugs.

I would be more concerned about the condition those plugs are in. Others have posted pics here of their plugs at 100K miles that looked much better than that. I don't know what would cause than condition to occur.

[avs]

Originally Posted by ShuckyD

Ok so after a total of 20 minutes all four plugs are changed with new BOSCH Platinum +2 (4301) spark plugs... can anyone tell me if they're good to use since I saw a notice on the engine block to only use iridium plugs, etc... ?? I'm also planning on getting rid of the paper air filter and swapping it for a K&N..

The plugs were also white and charred at the tip (see attached pic) so I assume they were probably originals... not changed at 33k when I bought it certified.. but who knows, maybe they were... they were DENSO plugs and I didnt put anything on the new ones when I installed them, should I take it back apart and do it so it wont be a PITA to do in another 100k?

A lot of manufacture including toyota are putting in iridium plugs from factory. They're suppose to perform well with the direct injection engine. They're not cheap (~12/plug). I would spent a little bit more and put iridium plugs in there.

[ShuckyD]

well the 20 minutes included turning on the radio, cracking open a "drink" and getting all the sockets needed. I have never had any issues with the car since I've owned it, it's been great to me and pretty much all of the scheduled maintenance have been done on time.

From looking at those plugs it looks like it runs hot and lean, but much of that is an actual issue I dont know..

[RTexasF]

If you get a check engine light with those plugs get rid of them and go with the correct iridium plug for that engine. I know that Hondas do not like those plugs one bit and they cause problems. It remains to be seen on your 2.4l how they will fare.

Do you use any oil or fuel additives? That can also cause the ash deposit. It might be worth changing brands of fuel.