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Notes on front hub assembly replacement 4WD V6
Just wanted to help you guys out on replacing the front hub assemblies on a RAV4. I didn't take any pictures but I'll try to be as detailed as possible. My notes are for a 2007 4WD V6 Rav4. There might be some slight variation for other models but you'll definitely need a 30mm 12 point deep socket for all models.
First let me express how disappointed with how quickly BOTH my front hub assemblies have failed. My car only has 85K (which is high for a 2007) however we're talking about a frickin' toyota here. My passenger side was the worst of the 2 so i changed that first. I'll get around to the driver side hub assembly with pictures, as I'm hearing a faint whirring noise at 30+ mph.
Air tools are always nice but not necessary.
-BRAND NEW OEM AXLE NUT FROM TOYOTA (DON'T REUSE YOUR OLD ONE)
-17mm open end wrench
-30mm 12 point DEEP or axle nut socket. (12 point is a must!)
-1/2" drive torque wrench capable of at least 215lbs/ft
-sockets varying from 12mm to 14
-(2) M8 hex (length doesn't matter as long it's at least an inch long.
-JACK STANDS! (don't skimp on this!)
-Medium or large size C- clamp
I struggled to loosen up the axle nut even with a breaker bar but managed to loosen it by jacking up the end of the bar w/ a spare jack and using the weight of the vehicle to break it loose. Even after loosening it the corrosion made it difficult to rachet it out. I stripped my axle nut which was frustrating because it would've cost me an additional 200 dollars for an axle if I couldn't salvage it. Luckily I was able to reuse the threads and tighten the axle nut all the way through.
1. Soak the axle nut with WD40 to penetrate the threads.
2. use a punch or screwdriver and hammer the notch out of the slot on the axle nut. Flare it out a little more to clear the threads on the axle.
OPTIONAL: I would've gone this route if I knew how seized the axle nut was. Find a buddy or mechanic who has air tools to break the axle nut loose and remove it for you. Offer him 10 or 20 bucks to help you. Trust me it's worth it and you're still saving some money. All he has to do is remove the wheel center cap and impact wrench it all the way out. After just clean the threads a bit and retorque the axle nut back to about 195lbs. Then drive back home and finish up the project. That is if you don't live too far.
3. Remove the wheel and now you have to remove the brake pads. Just remove the bottom bolt for the caliper and pivot the caliper up. This will free up your pads and allow you to take the inner and outter brake pad off. Make note of which pad was inner and outter.
4. Use a 17mm to remove the (2) bolts that hold the caliper behind hub assembly.
5. Follow the brake lines and remove both (2) 14mm bolts that hold the brake line in place. Now i was able to rest my brake assembly on the axle itself without putting stress on the brake line. Whatever you do, don't stress the brake line by hanging the braking assembly.
6. Now you can see there's 2 small holes near the center of the rotor. Apply a little bit of WD40 in there and screw your M8 bolts into each hole. Do 2 or 3 turns on each bolt then alternate to the other bolt. This helps evenly loosen the rotor from the hub assembly. Eventually you'll hear a crack sound and your rotor should slip off.
7. Remove the rotor and now you have an exposed hub assembly. Take your 17mm open end wrench and loosen the 4 bolts behind the hub. These are probably seized pretty tight so I had to hammer it out by tapping the end of my wrench until they break loose.
8. As you loosen the (4) 17mm bolts the hub assembly should start to come off. If not give it a few wacks with a hammer to break the hub off the corrosion. Hammer the hub from behind if you're having a little trouble pulling it off the spline. Grab a good hold of it and pull it hard towards you. I secured a jackstand underneath the frame just in case things start to give.
9. Remove brake dust cover and make a note of how it goes back in.
10. Now that everything is out assembly is pretty much reverse. Take a metal brush and clean off the threads on the axle. Clean behind the assembly to ensure a flat clean mating surface. Apply a little bit of axle grease or anti seize if you'd like
11. Put the brake dust cover back on
12. Apply a little a little bit of anti-seize on the axle's threads
13.Slip the hub assembly back on and make sure axle splines fit perfectly in the center of the hub. Go ahead and hand tighten the axle nut for now to keep the axle from slipping around.
14. Screw the 17mm bolts back on from behind. Not sure what the torque specs are but I just tightened as much as I could.
15. Put the rotor back on and put your wheel lugs back on to hold it against the hub for now.
16. Put the brake assembly back on tighten the (2) 14mm bolts
17. Compress the caliper piston with a C clamp.
18. Slide the brake pads back into place and pivot the caliper over it. Tighten the the bolt (12mm or 14mm? I can't remember)
19. Torque the NEW axle nut down to 215lbs / ft for fronts and 159ft/lb for rears. Don't use old axle nuts because it'll strip the threads on your axle. I'm not sure if other hub manufacturers have different torque values but my SKF Hub assembly recommends 215lbs/ft. I also applied a little bit of anti-seize. Some people argue that it makes torque reading inaccurate but I guess i'll take that chance. One things for sure, I'll have an easier time removing it the next time! (hopefully never again)
20. Put the wheels back on! Fire up the car! Pump your brakes until you get brake pressure again! Then test drive it!
I don't know if I missed anything. Feel free to contribute with tips or corrections or even pictures.
A few comments on hub assembly brands etc etc:
I went with SKF because they seem to be regarded as the best quality. Timken is also another one which is regarded as top quality. However, Timken has been recently bought out by Koyo. From my research Koyo is so-so quality. I would've bought a Timken if it were available at the time and decided against Koyo simply because I didn't want to chance an early hub failure again. SKF was the most costly of the bunch but I mainly wanted the 3 yr warranty that was offered through NAPA. My failed hub assembly had a Koyo bearing on it and the new SKF I bought also had the same Koyo markings on it, however the salesmen assured it was US-made vs something overseas.
Last edited by 1jzgte; 11-19-2011 at 06:37 AM.