Spark Plug Change 2007 V6-DIY- Not too complicated - Toyota RAV4 Forums
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#1 (permalink) Old 11-20-2011, 05:05 PM
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Spark Plug Change 2007 V6-DIY- Not too complicated

I’ve been kind of in the background for a long time just getting valuable information from this site, but decided to add something today, as I have just done the V6 spark plug change at 123,000 miles, and have not seen a specific thread on removal of those 3 hidden backside plugs yet, although, there has been much speculation. I was hesitant at first because of some ridiculous rumors that the engine had to be removed, or motor mounts lifted to do this. That was crazy stuff. After looking at the engine, and rubbing my chin, the good Lord gave me some wisdom, and I could see that it is much easier. All that needs to be removed is the black plastic air intake bolted over the intake manifold. I have some simple instructions for anyone who wants to save some money, and do it yourself. These only refer to the back plugs, as the front 3 are obvious. All 6 plugs took me about 3 hours time, but I was going slow, and discovering the best way to do this as I went along. Anyone else with the instructions should be able to accomplish this in 1.5 to 2 hours. I’ll try to load some photos too.
--First unscrew the clamp of the rubber air boot to the bright aluminum throttle body. Remove a couple of vacuum hoses from the plastic air filter cover, unlatch the air filter cover, and pull the cover, and rubber boot aside.
-- Now remove the vacuum hoses from the black plastic air intake the will need to be removed from the intake manifold on the top of the engine. Leave the bright aluminum throttle body attached to the intake. Remove the wire connector on the side of the intake (passenger side). Use a hex head socket of the correct size ( I wouldn’t use an allen wrench) ,to remove the 4 hex head screws holding the black plastic intake to the intake manifold. There are 2 10mm nuts , one on each side , left, and right of the hex head screws. Remove those. Now the intake won’t lift yet. There are 2 mount bracket bolts that are easy to remove, but not easily seen on the backside of the black plastic intake. Both use a 12 mm wrench. One on the passenger side can be seen with a flashlight at the backside. Either the bolt on the top of the bracket or lower can be taken out. I chose the lower one that was easy to see, and reach. Now the one on the drivers side, and back of the intake can be found by running your hand over the smooth black plastic ring about an inch left of the bright aluminum throttle body. As you follow that ring over, and around the backside, your finger will touch that bracket bolt head. Your wrench can reach it easy by feel. That’s it. Pull the plastic air intake up. The base gasket is rubber, and re-useable.
--Now you can see there is plenty of room to reach the back 3 spark plugs. Use your 10mm socket to remove the coil/boot screw, and lift the boot out. The bottom half is rubber, and can turn to the side when the boot is pulled close to the firewall. I was able to pull all 3 boots without disconnecting any of the wire connectors. After loosening the spark plugs with the socket and extension, I used a magnet on a flexible handle to pull the plugs out of the hole. Be sure to use anti-seize on the new plug threads. The air intake, air filter cover, and rubber boot were all reinstalled in less than 15 minutes.
I hope this helps some who have wondered about the procedure. No fear. It was really quite easy.
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#2 (permalink) Old 11-20-2011, 05:14 PM
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Photos of intake removal.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Intake-prep.JPG (115.8 KB, 831 views)
File Type: jpg Intake-off.JPG (123.4 KB, 771 views)
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#3 (permalink) Old 11-20-2011, 07:29 PM
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Excellent write up and photos, GO-WEST! This looks so much easier than our old Dodge Caravan, where you could only get to the back 3 plugs from underneath! Check out this post from a recent thread where the coils were replaced:

Ignition Coil Rav4 2006 V6 Limited 4x4

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#4 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 11:07 AM
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Top notch DIY! In 40,000 more miles and probably about 3-4 years, I'll need to do this on the Wife's V6.

Thanks again GO-WEST!
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 07:25 PM
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Go-West.
if your coils are #90919-02251 you should have replaced them with newer part number.

Did you notice the polished aluminum surface of intake manifold (where it contacts with the plastic intake port) covered with oil? I did in mine and wondered where the oil came from.
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by friendly_jacek View Post
Go-West.
if your coils are #90919-02251 you should have replaced them with newer part number.

Did you notice the polished aluminum surface of intake manifold (where it contacts with the plastic intake port) covered with oil? I did in mine and wondered where the oil came from.
"blow-by"?
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#7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 10:03 PM
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Thanks friendly jacek, I'll need to check the coil numbers. I have not encountered any problems with the coils to date. From the info on this site, it sounds like the '06 models mostly had a bad batch. Yes, I did notice the slime in the intake. It smelled like fuel, but the first thought was a PCV valve issue. That could account for oil, as the Rav doesn't lose any oil level currently. I'll be sending some Seafoam up the vacuum line on the intake soon, and that should help clean out some of that slime, and the valves too!
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 10:11 PM
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Cool! Does not look bad at all - yeah I remember those "removing the engine rumors" that originally came out - I think that may be the instructions in the Toyota shop manual.

Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-22-2011, 06:07 AM
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Great write-up!!! Thank you very much.

The PCV valve is easy enough to change. I changed my wife's at 30K miles. Probably not necessary, but I like to keep things clean inside.

If you use NGK plugs, you won't need anti-seize. The threads have a special coating.
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#10 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 08:55 PM
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Replaced my three rear coils and all six spark plugs yesterday using GO-WEST's instructions. Took about 2.5 hours. About the only thing I'd add is how to find and get to that rear bolt on the driver's side. It's actually to the left of his yellow arrow in the photo. If you follow the bracket for the brake booster vacuum line down behind the manifold with a mirror, you'll find the illusive bolt just to the left of where the bracket bolts on. I used a 12mm deep socket and a 3" extension to easily remove it. Getting it started back in is a lot more fun especially in a mirror where everything looks backward.

At 96,000 miles I'd been getting a cylinder 5 misfire code off and on so it was time. (Didn't do the fronts because they're so easy and I now have two spares.) Had scare when I got the same cylinder 5 misfire code again as soon as I started the engine.
It was showing another code too so I figured maybe I forgot the hook something up. Sure enough I'd left the PCV hose off and it happens to hook into the plenum right above the cylinder five intake port which leaned it out and caused the code. Plugged it back on, erased the codes and all is well.

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Red Limited - wife's
2006 Accord V6 Hybrid - Dr. Dyno's - quick as the RAV but +8 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport

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