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R/R sway bar end link replaced, it had broken!!!

39K views 30 replies 24 participants last post by  Ike Carlson 
#1 ·
Just a bit over $200 for both the parts, which were just under $100 and another hour of labor.

One day while I was driving around JFK Airport, I heard this massive thud from underneath the rear of the truck and subsequently, the knock kept coming from the Drivers Side Rear someplace.

Did the usual checking to see if there was loose cargo in the storage hatch as well as the tire tools back there but all was well with that.

This past weekend I had taken the wheel off and jacked the truck up and found that the swaybar end link was snapped at the threads and either the sway bar or more likely, the dangling end-link was making the noise when going over bumps. On the highways and driving at speed over smooth roads, no problems, no noise, it was really apparent going slower and over bumpy roads.

The good news is that the job is done and the wife says "No more sounds".
 
#3 ·
Thanks RTexasF, on Saturday when I had called my local Toyota Dealer, they had the link in stock. When I called back on Monday after they did not return my call on Saturday, they said they'd have the link in on Tuesday and could replace it this morning.

I tried to get the nut that holds the link to the sway bar off but my impact gun, nor my brute strength could get it to budge, that and the fact that the sway bar would keep moving, I decided that to pay the $94 for the hour of labor wasn't a bad deal. I could also found an aftermarket or the OEM link online and save some money there but for $200, the job is done.

They also did the floormat/gas pedal recall as well. I really didn't want them shaving the pedal down but they did what they did and that is that.
 
#5 ·
Is there anything that you might attribute this damage to (ex. large pot hole, etc.). Was the link corroded?

Excellent question(s) arries289 and I thought of this myself, of course.

The link was NOT corroded at any way. It snapped where the threads go through the lower arm.

I did search the other night and had seen that the same thing happened to 2 other people on this board. My search was not very thorough as I think I typed in something like "banging/thud/noise coming from rear end". But I did see 2 instances where the posters shared that one of their rear-end links had broken at the threaded portion.

Now, it is my wife's Rav. I know that when she drives, she does not even try whatsoever to avoid any rough part/pothole, nothing. That is just the way she is and probably like most people.

The weekend, like 3 weekends ago, when I first heard the knock, I think the day before she had cut a curve in the road too close and ran over the curb with her 2 right tires, thankfully no damage to either the wheels or to the alignment but, BUT, it could be that the sudden shift of weight to the left-side of the truck/left suspension, could have then caused that link to snap.

Later that day or the next day, when I was at the airport was the first time I heard the bang. Either that or the bang I had heard was from the first time the link had broken. It was like someone shot a golf ball up at the bottom of the truck.

At least if someone does a search for rear end link, maybe my post will come up so others will be informed.
 
#6 ·
I had my rear stabilizer bar link break recently as well. It snapped off at the threaded portion. My 2007 has ~200,000km vast majority are highway so I am a little surprised that it happened.

I just finished replacing both links, but now I have a different noise coming from the back end that is even worse. Didn't have time to put it back on stands and look again but I am confused. Replacing the links it literally just a matter of removing two nuts (assuming the link isn't broken, it its broken just one nut to remove) slide out the old, slide in the new and put the nuts back on.
 
#7 ·
I just had the 2nd recall done for the new suspension arms that I had installed just this past Monday, or Tuesday, and wouldn't you know it, the L/R-passenger sway bar link has broken.

Freaking Toyota for putting cheap/thin links and making me/us pay to have them replaced.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thanks. The link was replaced this morning and unfortunately, not with a MOOG link. The new link looks exactly like the updated Toyota/OEM link, just painted black instead of silver/metal. It is thicker above the threads whereas the original link/rod was the same diameter throughout its entire length.
 
#11 ·
The mechanic I talked to at my dealer said this is a common issue because (if we're talking the same parts) they stick out so far below the car and suspension. When people go over things without enough clearance, they catch and snap. They do seem to protrude quite a bit more than they need to. I thought they were also a fairly small diameter in my opinion, so I don't think it would take much. He said it's wasn't a safety issue, but you'll know it when it happens.
 
#17 ·
.... a common issue because (if we're talking the same parts) they stick out so far below the car and suspension. When people go over things without enough clearance, they catch and snap. They do seem to protrude quite a bit more than they need to...
Yea, there is 7.5-inches clearance on mine, the lowest point of the rear of vehicle, with no protection.


...get the moog links, they are beefier and much better quality...
Do they stick out as far as the stock ones?

This mainly seems to happen up Nawth where they put salt on the roads. Has anyone heard of one of these links rusting up and breaking down South?
Probably way more 8-inch+ deep pot-holes, too, for us Nawthenahs lol?
###
 
#12 ·
Broken Links....

Just for the record and the statistics on repairs you folks compile: I had the same "broken link" scenario as Thundra, above. A God-awful "thunk," rattle, and scraping sound. I thought the rear wheel bearing had failed.
Not so... my local shop said the sway-bar links had snapped. They replaced them at about US$120 each (parts), & 1/2 hour labor for the both.

Aside: I'm not particularly impressed with this vehicle: it IS generally trouble free, but I've felt that is was "tinny" overall since the day I bought it (new in 2007); and, I've never owned a vehicle which has had so many re-call notices. Now, with chassis parts failing for no good reason I suspect I'll be replacing this RAV before its "natural" 150k-200k mile life-time. I usually keep a car until "forever" - I've only got 60K miles on the RAV so far - but I don't know!
 
#13 ·
Just for the record and the statistics on repairs you folks compile: I had the same "broken link" scenario as Thundra, above. A God-awful "thunk," rattle, and scraping sound. I thought the rear wheel bearing had failed.
Not so... my local shop said the sway-bar links had snapped. They replaced them at about US$120 each (parts), & 1/2 hour labor for the both.

Aside: I'm not particularly impressed with this vehicle: it IS generally trouble free, but I've felt that is was "tinny" overall since the day I bought it (new in 2007); and, I've never owned a vehicle which has had so many re-call notices. Now, with chassis parts failing for no good reason I suspect I'll be replacing this RAV before its "natural" 150k-200k mile life-time. I usually keep a car until "forever" - I've only got 60K miles on the RAV so far - but I don't know!
Unfortunately, 2007 (the model year I also have) was listed as Consumer Reports worst year for the 4.3 platform. On average 2007's have some to a lot of buggy components: squeaks and rattles, cooling system issues, audio issues and suspension issues. Much better in 2008 and 2006 (odd since that was the first redesign year). I've experienced all of the above. Expect that your water pump will be next, probably around 80-95k miles. You might wonder why I am commenting months later? Guess what I am researching? Yep, broken sway bar links! :)
 
#15 ·
This mainly seems to happen up Nawth where they put salt on the roads. Has anyone heard of one of these links rusting up and breaking down South?
 
#18 ·
I had a sway bar end link break a few months ago at 127k. I replaced it with the MOOG (Part # K750257) from RockAuto (search for a 5% discount code), which was far beefier and has a built in zerk fitting. As a bonus, it was much cheaper than the OEM part.

I just replaced both rear end links at the same time. As a tip, unbolting the back half of the exhaust was helpful for removing the end link on the passenger side.

In terms of breakage, mine was clunking for a solid month before it actually broke. I don't think the link breaking was due to bottoming out or hitting something, but I think it was just metal fatigue. The end links have significant force acting on them on a daily basis.
 
#20 ·
I had one rusted out a while ago. They rust out between the rubber cushions.
I'd say rusting is the main thing these wearing out. Also their position in the lower arm makes forces that affect them while cornering stronger.

It's a while since looked under 4th gen Rav4 but isn't the rear suspension and these links the same? So it will occur in those too unless they have altered the material of the links,
 
#24 ·
2006 RAV4 Sport with 104k miles and just replaced both broken sway bar end links with the Moog K750257 from Rock Auto... definitely beefier looking quality end links with zerk fittings.

My wife was getting tired of the clunking noise from the broken links.
I tried to post pictures but the forum wouldn't let me insert images or links because my post count is too low.
Driver's side..
flic.kr/p/29iWtp5

Harder to see the passenger side, had to disconnect the tail pipe from the last two hangers so I could install it...
flic.kr/p/29iWuad
 
#26 ·
RockAuto has bushing kits from $10-$22 and complete end links from $8-$33. The beefy Moog's I installed were $29. If you want to save $20 each side then you could go with the cheap bushing kit... but I'd make sure first that you can remove the existing nut on the lower control arm and the end link is in good condition. It would stink to buy just a bushing kit and have the end link snap at the rusted threads when you try to remove the lock nut.

 
#28 ·
I think I'm actually missing the nut on both sides, which would be why 1 side pulled through. Looks like it happened a long time ago given how rusty the threads are. I'll go with the Moog option so I don't have to worry about it again, though I did get 120k mi out of the OEM setup.
 
#29 ·
My wife's Rav just started making loud noises from the rear end, especially when turning at speed but also not quite as loud noises when going over big washboard. Sure enough the passenger side sway bar linkage rubber bushing is missing and the linkage bolt/nut has pulled up through the control arm hole. I bopped it with a hammer and popped back down. No rust, just a missing rubber washer/bushing thingy. Where did the metal cap go? I can understand the bushing cracking open and falling away, but the metal cap looks pretty heavy duty. I guess it cracked as well. Possibly due to abuse w/o the bushing in place - metal on metal... 160,000 miles. Just did the front sway bar linkages too. Man, this car...so many problems...both in quality and design. I gotta do more research the next time I buy a car. Switching over to Honda CRV next time.
 
#30 ·
It is not uncommon for the bolt itself to crack from being overtightened and then rust will develop in the crack and break it off. The nut should only be tightened until it bottoms on the threads. An more than that will damage the bolt.
The ball/socket should also be lined up properly. The extra thread sticking down can be removed if desired. You will have to replace the link if you remove it later, but it won't catch on anything.
 
#31 ·
It is not uncommon for the bolt itself to crack from being overtightened and then rust will develop in the crack and break it off. The nut should only be tightened until it bottoms on the threads. An more than that will damage the bolt.
The ball/socket should also be lined up properly. The extra thread sticking down can be removed if desired. You will have to replace the link if you remove it later, but it won't catch on anything.
 
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