Rotors Too??? - Toyota RAV4 Forums
4.3 Mechanical Intakes, Exhaust, Tune-ups, 4x4 system, Suspension, Brakes, etc.

User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
#1 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 01:18 PM
Junior Member
Country: williamh's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: georgia
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
(Thread Starter)
Rotors Too???

Merry Christmas All -
I'm new to the forum. I had a situation with my wife's 08, Sport, 6 cyl yesterday that has driven me to reach out to other folks.

I took the Rav to a local repair shop to get the breaks checked. The car has 50k mi, and we've never had the breaks done. Front breaks were needed. To my suprise they said I needed rotors too.

The reason I was given for needing rotors was that with SUVs, when getting front breaks relaced, you should replace the rotors too or else there's a fair chance the car would have some vibration afterwards.

It sounds goofy to me that we will need to replace the rotors everytime we get the front breaks done.

I sure would appreciate your feedback.

Thanks -
williamh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 01:31 PM
Advanced Member
Country: Blogson's Flag is: Wales
 
Blogson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Oregon coast
Posts: 3,664
Thanks: 27
Thanked 227 Times in 227 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Ordinarily rotors should not need to be replaced when brake pads are replaced, unless the rotors have become badly warped, or have deep grooving or scouring. If the shop is honest and competent and there is some doubt about the condition of the rotors they should check them for runout. If there is a problem most rotors can be re-machined, which should be less expensive than replacing them.

Jim
2011 Upgraded Base V6 4WD
2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
2002 Craftsman LT1000 V2

Jesus is Lord
Blogson is offline  
#3 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 01:59 PM
Advanced Member
Country: ronbo1313's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: western new york
Posts: 1,047
Thanks: 1
Thanked 30 Times in 29 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Send a message via AIM to ronbo1313 Send a message via Yahoo to ronbo1313
Their reasoning is BS to me. Only need to replace rotors if grooved or worn. Then would get new and not cut. Cutting removes metal and less mass to displace the heat. Ceramics pads generate a lot of heat. Cutting cost $20 per rotor , got me new BREMBO's for $45 apiece delivered to my door.
(used google shopping or ebay to get me the deal)

Last edited by ronbo1313; 12-23-2012 at 05:51 PM.
ronbo1313 is offline  
#4 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 02:06 PM
Advanced Member
Country: Carbon's Flag is: United States
 
Carbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 4,002
Thanks: 7
Thanked 165 Times in 158 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Get the rotors turned. Mechanics prefer to sell new rotors, but let them show the measurement to you. There are thickness specs.

2009 V6 4wd Base
Carbon is offline  
#5 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 02:31 PM
Advanced Member
Country: Dr. Dyno's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 4,154
Thanks: 149
Thanked 298 Times in 280 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamh View Post
The reason I was given for needing rotors was that with SUVs, when getting front brakes relaced, you should replace the rotors too or else there's a fair chance the car would have some vibration afterwards.
There are three reasons to replace rotors on any wheel.
1. They are worn thinner then the min thickness stamped on them. This only happens at very high mileage on probably a ten year old vehicle. I've seen that - on a ten year old car.
2. They are deeply grooved due to pads allowed to wear down to the metal. I've done that on my '99 F-250.
3. They are warped causing an uneven braking force or a shudder most noticeable just before you come to a stop. If you don't have it with the old pads you won't with the new ones. If you do have it new pads won't fix it. Only machining (turning) or replacing the rotors will. I've had that happen on several cars and prefer new rotors over machining the old ones.

If you don't have any of the above symptoms you don't need and will not see any benefit with new rotors

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Red Limited - wife's
2006 Accord V6 Hybrid - Dr. Dyno's - quick as the RAV but +8 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport

It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!!
Dr. Dyno is offline  
#6 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 05:53 PM
Member
Country: DenisWH's Flag is: Great Britain
 
DenisWH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Folkestone, SE UK
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Send a message via Skype™ to DenisWH
All good stuff but my two pence worth is that if you do turn the rotors to recover the pad swept surfaces make sure both sides have an equal amount taken off that doesn't result in a reduction below the minimum thickness (as already advised as stamped on the rotor).
Be aware that if the pad swept surfaces front and back are turned so that the disk is too thin there is a chance that under heavy braking the outer part of the rotor that's clamped by the pads could break away and separate from the drum section with possible disastrous results.
Personally - for the cost of new rotors around these days (coupled with an almost certain guarantee that new will get rid of problems such as vibration etc) turning is not an option - couldnt be bothered unless the car is that old that rotors were not available due to obsolescence.

DenisWHalls
DenisWH is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to DenisWH For This Useful Post:
longdx (12-23-2012)
#7 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 07:10 PM
Member
Country: Meander's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: B.C
Posts: 63
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
As others said ,if you didn't have any vibration during braking before you went to the shop and the rotor thickness is within factory specifications they're trying to sell the Golden Bridge to you.
Meander is offline  
#8 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 08:18 PM
Junior Member
Country: williamh's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: georgia
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
(Thread Starter)
Thanks everyone for the great feedback. From what I can tell, I needlessly purchased two new rotors. They didn't speak of specs, grooves, etc. It was presented as it being the prudent thing to do when getting front brakes done. At least I had a coupon for 10% off on the total invoice and there is a $30 mail-in rebate on the breaks. That'll help.

I can't figure out why people go for the short dollar. The Rav needs 4 new tires and will need back breaks soon. My son's Mazda also needs 4 new tires. All of which I'lll have done at another shop.

Thanks again all!
williamh is offline  
#9 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 08:24 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 84
Thanks: 3
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I just recently replaced my pads on my 2009Base2.5L with 79k on the odometer. I took the car into the dealership for a recall and had them do a preliminary check. ( I had a feeling the pads needed to be replaced, but it wasn't hitting the wear sensors yet). Of course the dealership wanted to replace pads/rotors at $300 an axle. To which, I politely told them to stuff it. I do most of my own work but had a local (and honest mechanic) recheck them as I had him rebalance my tires. He told me just the pads were needed (no gouges/grooves int he rotors and the rotors were all in spec). I had him replace the rotors while it was onthe lift and have had no problems since..

@DenisWH: Exactly, new rotors are cheap relatively so turniing had really become a thing of the past.

Last edited by longdx; 12-23-2012 at 08:27 PM. Reason: added to the post
longdx is offline  
#10 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 11:41 PM
Advanced Member
Country: Dr. Dyno's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 4,154
Thanks: 149
Thanked 298 Times in 280 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamh View Post
Thanks everyone for the great feedback. From what I can tell, I needlessly purchased two new rotors.
That's okay, you'd have needed them in another 100,000 miles anyway.
Dr. Dyno is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome