New brakes are not very responsive like before

[disk2050]

I got front and back brakes pads and rotors (parts bought from NAPA) got changed on 2007 RAV4 V6 Ltd. from a local auto repair shop about nine months ago.

My issue is these new brakes are not very responsive compare to the original OEM once. Wife is now complaining more and more that these brakes are not very responsive, required harder to push and it take longer to stop the car.

I know these are only 9 months old pads and rotors. Should I consider changing the all or at least the front pads with the OEM pads? Any idea or suggestion to fix this issue?

[veliksam]

Kinda sounds like your local repair shop didn't bleed the brakes properly?

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[tankd0g]

Originally Posted by disk2050

I got front and back brakes pads and rotors (parts bought from NAPA) got changed on 2007 RAV4 V6 Ltd. from a local auto repair shop about nine months ago.

My issue is these new brakes are not very responsive compare to the original OEM once. Wife is now complaining more and more that these brakes are not very responsive, required harder to push and it take longer to stop the car.

I know these are only 9 months old pads and rotors. Should I consider changing the all or at least the front pads with the OEM pads? Any idea or suggestion to fix this issue?

Do they feel spongy? That would be air in the system.

Do they feel solid but just don't seem to grip? That could be cheap brake pads or the pads were not bedded in properly and are now glazed. It could also be one or more slider pins ont he calipers is seized up and you are only braking with one pad out of a pair.

[WJBertrand]

The pads may not be the ideal compound match to the rotors. The factory makes some effort to match these.

[JuneBug]

Originally Posted by disk2050

I got front and back brakes pads and rotors (parts bought from NAPA) got changed on 2007 RAV4 V6 Ltd. from a local auto repair shop about nine months ago.

My issue is these new brakes are not very responsive compare to the original OEM once. Wife is now complaining....

You pretty much answered your own question there. You may have saved a little money with the NAPA parts, but if your wife is unhappy it ain't worth it! Replace the pads and rotors with the OEM parts. They work great for me and I see no reason to go with anything else.

[veliksam]

I think JB is right. Try and finish the following sentence: You get what you ...... for. :D

Sent from my HTC ONE X

[Shep426]

Possible the pads and rotors were not properly bedded/seated, premium pads and rotors from Napa have never given me any issue in my shop.

[disk2050]

Thanks everyone for their inputs.

I don't think saving money was the reason for me to go to this local shop. I paid 700 dollars before tax for the lousy job he did.

Should I bleed the brakes and verify the calipers, etc before changing everything again? If everything is good, changing to OEM pads will fix the issue or I have to change rotors as well? Does anyone have an idea how much rotors and pads cost from the dealer? OEM parts are usually very expensive in Canada!

[Carbon]

I would try inspecting the rotors through the spokes and from the back. Look for any asymmetry in the pattern for the rotor wear. Look and feel. Improper lubrication could cause one pad or part of a pad to not be applying pressure.

For the work that you describe, bleeding the brakes is not the common standard. Replacing brake fluid is not a bad idea. If done while bleeding, it adds very little extra work.

I would go back to that shop that did your brakes and describe your observations. See if they will charge anything to check your brakes. Your $700 seems a little high, but it seems compatible with other folks describing things in Canada to cost more. A reputable shop can still make a mistake, and they will try to make it right. Something like the glazing tankd0g mentioned could be cured, and it would not have been caused by a mistake.

I think that some shops, including some Toyota dealers, tend to replace rotors on RAV4s that only need turning. You have seen people on this forum strongly against turning rotors-- usually due to experience with different cars. So a shop replacing rotors needlessly may do it from ignorance rather than greed. On the other hand, maybe your rotors had been previously turned and the shop measured the rotors to properly determine they needed changing.

[ARK]

Compounds used in different brake materials can make a difference in the barking force you have to apply to stop the car.
After new brake work is done the brakes do need time to fit, that is the rotors or drums need to fit the shoes or pads completely and this period of newness requires the brakes be applied without excessive force, the materials must wear into each other. During this time there is excessive dusting of the brake material and this dusting must be removed or allowed to be removed from between the mating surfaces. Glazing of the friction material produces a rather tight, dense material instead of the frictional material. A glazed surface will spin whereas the normal material will have its properties of friction and it is friction that slows you down. After all the brake pressure shoves the friction material onto the rotors and as more pressure is applied the friction material causes the spinning rotor to slow and come to a stop.

If your pressure system is compromised by ingress of air, by virtue of dirty old brake fluid, by hygroscopic reaction with water in the air, or simply by age. Brake fluid requires a change out at about 3 year interval.

Excessive foot pressure is needed when disc brakes become wet and they do each and every time they are allowed to cool as when you drive then park. The action of parking cools the metal and condenses any water vapor and then when you drive away you rub the wet rotor over the friction material and hear a squeal until the braking surfaces get warm enough to evaporate and moisture and leave a small amount of dirt. A regular PM at least 2x a year is needed to check the brakes.

Rubber cups, pistons, hydraulic actions are all needed to be cleaned as they push/pull to apply brakes. Disk type brakes are more open than drum type brakes and although disk type are more or less self cleaning and self adjusting they need more attention because of their operation.

Brakes just by being there need attention, they are made to wear out. The length of useable time varies with the person pushing the brake peddle, the type of driving, and where they are driving. The over all materials used for brakes will also determine life span.

In general:
A softer friction material will quiet the brakes but shorten the pad time.
A harder material will lengthen the brakes but may wear the rotors.

A balance is needed unless you are a person with a heavy foot and in this case there really is no great braking system because too much gas will mean too much braking and in very little time too much money will be spent in going and stopping