Changing Fluid on a RAV4 U760 Transaxle - Toyota RAV4 Forums
4.4 Mechanical Intakes, Exhaust, Tune-ups, 4x4 system, Suspension, Brakes, etc.

User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: Gilligan2017's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Changing Fluid on a RAV4 U760 Transaxle

How to do a drain and fill on Toyotas with the 660U or 760U transmissions that do NOT have a dipstick. The "sealed" description is wrong. A fill port exists behind the drivers side front wheel engine cover panel. Look for a large 24mm bolt.

I've created this to help you guys who have heard that this transmission is sealed and have shied away from doing it your self. This cost about $70. I hope you can use it and not have to go to one of those stealerships.

The tools Toyota sells for doing this are for shops that need to work on extremely hot transmissions because they don't have time to start with a cool unit for checking the final level of the fluid. This procedure will work for the DYIer at home in a garage.

Toyota claims that their WS Transaxle fluid will last for the life of the car and also doesn’t say when to replace the power steering fluid. Any fluid which services moving parts needs replacement as with time it deteriorates. There are several complex reasons for it, too long to be explained here, but involve the chemical breakdown of the oil and fluids from the internal friction and heats it is exposed to over time.

I changed the fluid on a Camry with 116,000 miles on its original fluid and it was squid ink black.

This drain and fill will rectify the problem if your transmission hesitates before shifting from 1st to 2nd OR 2nd to 3rd gear when cold and when the engine just revs up without going into the next gear. Do this before you ever consider taking your car to a shop for transaxle problems.

Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Transmission fluid will mix with Toyota's WS fluid without any issues and is cost effective and a much higher quality fluid.

Here is what I found that worked.

The Basics:
• Transmissions are used on rear wheel drive vehicles. Transaxles are used on front wheel drive vehicles.
• Engines and gear boxes use oil, transmissions and transaxles use hydraulic fluids. Both are oils but the hydraulic fluids have a special quality that make them uncompressible in pressurized spaces.
• This procedure is for Toyotas with U660 and U760 transaxles. These transmissions do NOT have a dip stick.
• The total Transaxle fluid capacity of a U660 or U760 is approx. 6.7 quarts.
• The full quantity of transmission fluid can’t be replaced unless you dismantle it totally and then reassemble it OR you hook up a flushing machine by tapping into the input & return pipes of the transmission oil which are connected to the heat exchanger. Both these options are complex, time consuming and expensive.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
1. 6 mm hex socket & ratchet or long handled 6mm Allen Wrench.
2. 10 mm socket & ratchet.
3. 24 mm socket & ratchet.
4. 18” of socket extensions.
5. One bobble head or universal joint.
6. Foot Pound and Inch Pound Torque wrenches. These can be rented at most automotive parts stores. The inch pound wrench is important as I have seen many transaxle pan bolt holes stripped from over tightening. The inch pound wrench is only required for reinstalling the pan bolts to torque if you are changing the filter.
7. Infra-red temperature gun. (For level check.)
8. Funnel & Plastic pipe
9. Jack (This can be done without putting the car on stands. They just make the reach to the pan bottom easier.)
10. 4 - jack stands. (Car must be level for fluid level setting.)
11. Wheel chocks.
12. Drain pan. ( short and wide if doing this without the jacks)
13. Rags/gloves

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (from the Toyota Service Manual)

• 6 mm hex socket bolt overflow plug to 30 lbs.-ft
• Transaxle pan filler tube under the hex socket to 7-inch pounds. (barely finger tight)
• 10 mm pan bolts to 66-inch pounds.
• 24 mm refill port bolt with crush washer to 36 lbs.-ft.

SUPPLIES
Valvoline Max-Life (2) 5-quart containers.
12 oz. Lube Guard Supplement for transmissions.

HOW TO DO IT:

1. Make sure the car has been parked overnight and everything is at room temperature.

2. Turn the steering wheel fully to the left.

3. Jack up the car 3-4 inches leaving the wheels mounted. Car must be lifted on all four corners to level for correct setting of fluid level. (This whole process can be done without jacking up the car as long as you have a wide shallow oil catch pan that fits under your car.)

4. Remove the two 10 mm bolts on the left (driver’s side) side wheel well plastic shield. Push the shield downward, it will pivot on a hidden plastic plug, until the 24mm fill bolt becomes reachable,

5. Loosen the 24 mm oil fill bolt & remove it.If you can not remove the fill plug do NOT continue! If you drain the fluid first and can't remove the 24 mm bolt you have disabled the vehicle and will need a tow to a shop.

6. With your drain pan in place, loosen the 6 mm hex bolt on the bottom of the transaxle pan. Be careful to not to lose the crush sealing washer. Be careful, hex bolts are notorious for getting a stripped head, so be sure to insert the hex socket fully into the bolt before trying to loosen it.

7. As soon as you remove the drain bolt, fluid will drain out for approximately 5 minutes. Once it stops draining, move to the next step.

8. Using the same 6 mm hex socket, reach in the drain hole with the hex socket and unscrew the plastic fill-level tube. It’s screwed in loosely and will come out easily. Just use the hex socket and your fingers to prevent damaging it. There is no O-ring on it.

9. Once you remove the plastic overfill tube, more transaxle fluid will drain out for about 5 minutes.

10. That’s it, nothing more will come out. At this point you can pull the pan and replace the filter. Reinstall the drain bolt and the plastic overfill tube

11. Using a measuring bottle, verify the exact quantity of oil drained into the drain pan. It should be about 3 quarts.

12. Refill the transaxle with the same amount of fluid. 3 quarts of transaxle fluid is what is listed in the Toyota Service Manual.

13. Start the engine keeping it at idle, watch the temperature of the fluid by pointing the infra-red thermometer into the fill hole. You will be able to see fluid flowing through the hole and by gently shifting the direction of the gun you will be able to tell when you are actually reading the fluid and not the case. The fluid will become hotter than the metal case.

14. Once the fluid reaches 104 degrees Fahrenheit pull the hex drain plug and let the fluid drain with the engine still running, When the fluid flow reduces to a trickle or spurts the transaxle is at the correct level. This must be done with the engine running. As the engine will continue to heat the fluid to higher temps you must start this immediately upon reaching 104 degrees and be finished before it reaches 113 degrees to be accurate.

15. Install the drain plug,

16. Turn off the engine.

17. Torque all bolts to specs.

Do this three times over three different days adding the Lube
Guard to the last fill. This procedure will replace about 2/3 rds of the total fluid and the Lub Guard will make up for the old fluid left in the transaxle.

I hope this is useful.
Gill
Gilligan2017 is offline  
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Gilligan2017 For This Useful Post:
Beaumont67 (03-25-2018), Bob K (03-27-2018), CanuckRAV4 (04-17-2018), usnftc (08-13-2018)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 04:55 PM
Senior Member
Country: Beaumont67's Flag is: Canada
 
Beaumont67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: St. Thomas, ON Canada
Posts: 419
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 97 Post(s)
Thanks: 275
Thanked 71 Times in 69 Posts
Simply WOW Gill - awesome write up, exactly what I was waiting to see:
- couldn't have been clearer, step-by-step...and so easy to follow

660U or 760U transmissions / I wonder which trans, our 2008 RAV4 Limited v6 has (made in Japan) ??
- I already bought some jugs of synthetic Redline D6 group 5, from Summit
- time to do the first trans flush / still shifting perfect @ 164,xxx Km = 102,xxx miles

Link below, to another informative thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainia View Post
............https://www.rav4world.com/forums/126-...2014-rav4.html

I also changed out the crap WS transmission fluid at around 21,400 miles and put in Redline D6 group 5 Ester based ATF and added 2 qts of high and low viscosity Redline racing ATF with no slip agents (Type F) to get a bit less smooth shifts. A fast, less slip shift creates less heat and wear then a smooth slipping shift. That will help take the higher heat that this Rav4 is getting while towing. I also run a TransProtector in-line filter. By adding this in-line filter on all my cars I noticed on all the cars that shifting was faster and smoother because the shifting solenoids had less particulate in the oil to slow down the solenoids moving through friction. Even my 18 year old daughter noticed her 100,000 miles Honda Civic shifted better after adding the TransProtector filter. Her car had 5,000 miles on a fresh "full" change of Valvoline Max-Life synthetic ATF when I added the filter.

Rav4 motor has 4 qts Mobil1 5w or 0w 40 and 1 qt of Redline 5w-30 group 5 Ester with high moly, and a Fram Ultra engine filter.

Time will tell if the RAV's tranny will hold up. I have done what I can to help make it more robust. I will be doing Redline trans fluid replacements every 30,000 miles because of rough service.
Beaumont67 is offline  
post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 07:48 PM
arf
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 249
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 21 Times in 17 Posts
Wow great post!

Very well written and informative.
arf is offline  
 
post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 10:16 PM
Junior Member
Country: kessac's Flag is: Australia
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: WA
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Great post and well wrote out very easy to follow.
thanks for the information
kessac is offline  
post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-26-2018, 02:05 AM
Member
Country: lolz2much's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaumont67 View Post
Simply WOW Gill - awesome write up, exactly what I was waiting to see:
- couldn't have been clearer, step-by-step...and so easy to follow

660U or 760U transmissions / I wonder which trans, our 2008 RAV4 Limited v6 has (made in Japan) ??
- I already bought some jugs of synthetic Redline D6 group 5, from Summit
- time to do the first trans flush / still shifting perfect @ 164,xxx Km = 102,xxx miles

Link below, to another informative thread:

I believe the Rav4 V6 has the U151F transmission. U151E if you are FWD.
lolz2much is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to lolz2much For This Useful Post:
Beaumont67 (03-26-2018)
post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-26-2018, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: Gilligan2017's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts
(Thread Starter)
The 08 v6 transmission is NOT a U660 or U760. It uses a U1F1 and it is different. That trani uses 3.7 quarts for each drain and fill. Things might be similar. I haven't done one so you'll have to let us know of any differences.
Gilligan2017 is offline  
post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 12:44 PM
Member
Country: ravster2015's Flag is: United States
 
ravster2015's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Thanks: 8
Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts
Garage
Good write up. Thanks! I knew there had to be a easier way to do it than all those special tools and the stealership.Here's a YouTube video of what you described.


Bought my RAV4 LE in August 2015. It's running well.
ravster2015 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to ravster2015 For This Useful Post:
usnftc (08-13-2018)
post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 02:57 PM
Member
Country: ravster2015's Flag is: United States
 
ravster2015's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Thanks: 8
Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts
Garage
Scan gauge used in the video above.

https://smile.amazon.com/ScanGauge-A...ords=scan+gage

Bought my RAV4 LE in August 2015. It's running well.
ravster2015 is offline  
post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 09:47 AM
Advanced Member
Country: Dr. Dyno's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 8,840
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1214 Post(s)
Thanks: 634
Thanked 1,027 Times in 900 Posts
Easier fill procedure

IMO, Gilligan2017's instructions and the post #7 video would apply to any sealed transaxle using the plastic fill-level tube method to set the correct fluid level.

But since the procedure relies on heating the fluid to set the level, the filling section of both his instructions and the video can be simplified. Here's how:

Steps 1 thru 10, and the first 6 minutes of the video, involve draining the fluid (and changing the filter if desired).
Edit: I'm wondering why ANY fluid would drain in step 7 unless the transaxle was overfilled initially.

At this point reinstall the fill-level tube (called the overflow tube in the video) but not the drain plug as step 10 says and he does at 7:55.

There is really no need to measure the amount of fluid that came out as step 11 says or he does at 8:30. So skip step 11.

In step 12 simply add new fluid until it starts to run out. Remember the drain plug isn't installed yet.

Steps 13 & 14 get simplified because with no drain plug the excess fluid will simply drain out the fill-level tube as it warms up. When the temperature hits 104F reinstall the plug (step 15) and the level is correctly set with less fiddling with the drain plug and handling warm oil in step 14 or as he does from 10:55 to 12:10.

I would highly recommend using an OBDII connected temperature measurement device like the ScanGauge he uses in the video. They can be set to monitor many different data streams from any vehicle or read and clear codes. Mine's currently setting on the dash of my Accord so I can quickly clear the dreaded IMA (Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration) code ASA it comes up. (I do have an ELM327 and the app on my phone which would likely read transaxle temp but is way too slow at clearing codes.)

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Barcelona Red Limited - wife's
2018 Accord Hybrid, Blue Pearl - Dr. Dyno's - 47/47 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2003 F-250 4X4 - eventual replacement for the '99
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport
1968 Volvo 1800S

It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!!


"If you really believe you get what you pay for there's no such thing as a good deal."

Last edited by Dr. Dyno; 04-13-2018 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Question on step 7
Dr. Dyno is online now  
post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 06:17 PM
Member
Country: ravster2015's Flag is: United States
 
ravster2015's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 183
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Thanks: 8
Thanked 29 Times in 26 Posts
Garage
That's interesting Dr Dyno. I can see eliminating some of the steps as you shared. I too would think there was more fluid in the transaxle then needed since the first 10 steps are being done with the vehicle sitting overnight and the fluid at room temperature. I'm thinking the fluid should only come out when you take the overflow tube out. The fluid at room temperature has not expanded in the transaxle like it does when it's hot. Am I correct or am I missing something?

Bought my RAV4 LE in August 2015. It's running well.
ravster2015 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome