Can ANYONE give me the part number for the oil filter? - Page 3 - Toyota RAV4 Forums
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 04:08 PM
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Complete oil change takes me c. 7-min. ------ Is seven minutes twice a year worth it?

When you add the tire rotation into the mix, it gets a little more complicated. I always rotate with every oil change. Rubber is expensive. I've managed to get 80K+ out of 60K tires by being timely with the rotations.

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take sand paper and rough up the area between the full and add marks

Thanks for the idea. I'm thinking about actually attempting some sort of knurl. I've seen an applicator somewhere in my journeys. Maybe Harbor Freight. I've also though about scoring the knurl pattern with a razor knife. Or maybe even a dremmel.

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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 12:12 PM
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I am not sure why we have to try and insult people in regard to what car work is done. Some make way more money than I do and have other priorities as to how they wish to spend their time. However I would let the oil drain way more than seven minutes.


When I had my MR2; we tore apart filters as we were trying to figure the "best" filter (you know, OCD silly stuff). I had purchased a 2007 during that time. We found that the oil filter from assembly had a different filter media than the "routine" filter. We had many theories as to why...but nothing concrete.



I have also not read anywhere that Toyota uses a break in oil. If it does, it usually has higher moly in it and you might not want to change it out early. That being said, I haven't read anywhere that Toyota does that. I usually will change mine out early. Usually within 500 miles if I can.

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I suppose it was a couple of decades ago when it was common to talk about "break-in oil," and getting it (along with all of the metal shavings that would be in that oil) out of your engine within 1,000 miles. I sure haven't heard anything like that since we began the era wherein most cars came filled with synthetic oil -- and very lightweight oil at that. What I have heard, instead, has been how engines have been built with far more precision than they once were, and simply don't "wear off the rough edges" during the first 1,000 miles, since there utterly aren't any "rough edges" anymore.


Still, to me, the whole concept of regular oil changes is "to get the crud out of your engine" that winds up in the oil, and thus oil changes more often are more prudent, if you intend to keep your car for more than a few years. As I have mentioned, I have been going to the same shop for over 35 years, and the guys there are entirely comfortable with 5,000-mile intervals, but not 10,000-mile intervals. And I can certainly live with that. So, the mileage intervals are easy. Trying to find the part number for the proper oil filter has been the toughest part.

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MichaelB-NJ View Post
There are many sites that have not updated to 2019 cars.
You do know that you get free oil changes from any Toyota dealer for the first two years. They are 10K changes, assuming you just don't trust 10K oil changes ?
I trust 10k oil changes.
I don't trust minimum wage oil change monkeys... dealer or Iffy Lube.

-- Rich
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 04:31 PM
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I have also not read anywhere that Toyota uses a break in oil. If it does, it usually has higher moly in it and you might not want to change it out early. That being said, I haven't read anywhere that Toyota does that. I usually will change mine out early. Usually within 500 miles if I can.

I've never heard of a "break-In" oil ran for 10,000 miles either. I do know of an advanced concept know as "conditioning". I'm not sure if it's real or just superstition. But it really doesn't matter because I'm doing the 5K regardless.

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Yes, I suppose it was a couple of decades ago when it was common to talk about "break-in oil," and getting it (along with all of the metal shavings that would be in that oil) out of your engine within 1,000 miles. I sure haven't heard anything like that since we began the era wherein most cars came filled with synthetic oil -- and very lightweight oil at that. What I have heard, instead, has been how engines have been built with far more precision than they once were, and simply don't "wear off the rough edges" during the first 1,000 miles, since there utterly aren't any "rough edges" anymore.

I'm quite sure that this /\ /\ /\ is the key to 10,000 mile oil changes.

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I trust 10k oil changes.
I don't trust minimum wage oil change monkeys... dealer or Iffy Lube.

No doubt that engines are made better and last longer than ever before. I have to wonder if the 10K change interval is designed to assist the service departments?

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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:14 PM
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No doubt that engines are made better and last longer than ever before. I have to wonder if the 10K change interval is designed to assist the service departments?
Toyota, and other manufacturers, recommended 7500 under normal conditions, 5000 under severe service for many, many years.
I traced it back to the late 90s, but was unable to find any maintenance manuals older than around '96.
In the early/mid 2000's, Toyota began adding the "Maintenance Required" light, and it was and remains a simple 5,000 mile timer, unlike the GM and Ford OLM's that actually calculate based on driving conditions.
Multiple members on Toyotanation have submitted 0w20 to Blackstone for analysis and 10k OCI is perfectly acceptable.
If you don't trust it and prefer to stick with 5k, of course, it's certainly not going to hurt anything.
If you don't rack up more than 10k in one year, then annual changes are needed, and I'd go more frequently than that if the engine is not regularly brought up to operating temp and held there for an hour or so to boil off condensation and combustion acids. My wife barely has 30k on her '15 Rav, but a couple if times a month or more she runs a ~40-50 mile trip, she's on her 5th oil change, my '16 Corolla has 77k on it, 8 oil changes.

Lighter oil improves CAFE numbers.
Less frequent maintenance (oil, plugs, etc...) improves JD Powers "36 Month cost of ownership"
The use of Iridium plugs @120k has put plug replacement firmly outside of 36 months, and a non-issue completely for the majority of owners, who trade in every 5-7 years at <120k, while for the owner who keeps the vehicle to 150-200k, the plug change cost is identical for DIY, and cheaper due to reduced labor if they have the dealer do it.

-- Rich
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 05:44 PM
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Multiple members on Toyotanation have submitted 0w20 to Blackstone for analysis and 10k OCI is perfectly acceptable.
I don't have any data to back up my opinion. But I do know a thing or two about taking "grab samples". And using that data to form an average. AND - I've learned that its possible to skew the data in the direction you want it to go by selectively choosing when, where and how you take the sample. I'm quite sure that pulling samples for individuals that care about their vehicles (people that voluntarily send in oil samples) would provide favorable data. Curious to know what trend the data would follow if samples were taken randomly at Jiffy Lube? I agree that the 10K change interval will be perfectly fine for those that consistently monitor their vehicle performance. But what about the majority of those individuals that barely know how to fill their tanks. Even for someone like myself. I want to do a service. Know that it was done right. And not look back over my shoulder again until the next service. Chances of catching an issue (before it's to late) is a lot better with 5K services. A lot can happen to a vehicle in 10K miles.

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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:00 PM
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That 10,000-mi. Oil Change Interval is... nonsense. Don't fall prey to it. Clean oil is your first, foremost, critical defense to the longevity of your vehicle. Don't switch around w/ different brands. Pick one brand, stick w/ it exclusively. Don't switch grades. Pick one grade, stick w/ it. Don't switch between Conventional and Synthetic and back again. Pick one and stick w/ it. Install Genuine OEM Toyota Filters & OEM new crush washers for Oil Pan Drain Plug. Use good quality oil. CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL DIY! Be kind to your engine. It's the one single thing you can do to ''keep your Toyota forever.''

Rule-of-Thumb Scotty Kilmer Rx. for Change Intervals:
3,400-4,000 mi. CONVENTIONAL OIL
7,000-8,000 mi. SYNTHETIC OIL

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Techsus View Post
That 10,000-mi. Oil Change Interval is... nonsense. Don't fall prey to it. Clean oil is your first, foremost, critical defense to the longevity of your vehicle. Don't switch around w/ different brands. Pick one brand, stick w/ it exclusively. Don't switch grades. Pick one grade, stick w/ it. Don't switch between Conventional and Synthetic and back again. Pick one and stick w/ it. Install Genuine OEM Toyota Filters & OEM new crush washers for Oil Pan Drain Plug. Use good quality oil.

Rule-of-Thumb Scotty Kilmer Rx. for Change Intervals:
3,400-4,000 mi. CONVENTIONAL OIL
7,000-8,000 mi. SYNTHETIC OIL

While I can agree for the most part with the blue (due to EPA "waste" and CAFE numbers influencing 10K changes); most of the stuff above it is fear mongering and older schools of thought. What is the basis of not switching between brands, grade and other such nonsense? Keep the grade within the recommended chart (and remember the chart in the manual is from North America where CAFE heavily influences it) and there is absolutely no issue switching back and forth between syn and conventional as there is no ramification to doing that.

The OEM filter is no better than any other after market one but you can go wrong by putting the cheapest filter on (orange can). Cutting filters apart has shown that. If you are not sure, then of course go OEM. But in general there are much better options out there.

In choosing your oil you want to look at a datasheet similar to the weblink below looking at NoACK, Ash and HTHS numbers. I don't use Valvoline but it was easy to get too to show the data. Another thing to consider is with DI motors that there is a large amount of micro-soot in the oil as well as fuel dilution that will reduce the OCIs.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:49 PM
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At first the service department tried to give me a cartridge filter, thanks to folks here I said it was likely a canister. He went back to the computer and here's what he found, pictured below. It's a tiny guy, I'll see if it works at mile 1000.
https://www.rav4world.com/forums/att...125817&thumb=1
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