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Can ANYONE give me the part number for the oil filter?

10K views 47 replies 21 participants last post by  dbkelly 
#1 ·
Folks,


Well, I absolutely, utterly CANNOT believe it: I just cannot find the correct part number on the entire Internet for the oil filter we need. I understand it is a "spin on" filter. I understand it's the same one that the 2.5-liter Camry engine uses. But, WHAT IS THE FREAKING MODEL NUMBER???? That's what I utterly cannot find anywhere, at least reliably. I actually went to the parts department of the dealership that I bought the car from, and they gave me the WRONG filter and model number: 04152-YZZA. But, that is a "some assembly required" filter. So, very simple question: What is the Toyota part number for the proper filter?


I'm allegedly going to have my oil changed tomorrow as my favorite garage (5,000 miles), and I decided to open up my filter box -- wrong filter! But, looking at everything I can find on the Internet, I utterly can't find anything that definitively says that "the oil filter part number is "whatever." I'd sure appreciate your help, if you know what's going on here.


Thanks!
 
#3 ·
So, we have one vote for 90915-YZZM1. :) Actually, thanks a ton for your help. Looking that up does finally get me to some pages that mention this part number and the 2019 RAV4. And it appears to be almost exclusively eBay pages -- all of the "Toyota" pages (plenty from dealerships, and plenty of Toyota Parts dealers) either don't mention the 2019 RAV4 at all, or give the wrong part number (like my own dealership did) -- 04152-YZZA1. But then, check this page out for fun:


https://parts.toyota.com/p/FILTER---OIL/73233892/90915YZZM1.html


Which says, up at the top in big red type:


THIS PRODUCT IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE.


Good freaking grief! Apologies for the screaming in all caps, but I have an oil change scheduled for first thing tomorrow morning, and I have never, ever had so much difficulty just trying to find a simple part number for something so mundane as an oil filter, in the entire 45 years I have been driving cars. Why on EARTH does Toyota seem to find it so difficult to just provide a part number for this oil filter??? Unfreakingbelievable!
 
#4 ·
So, we have one vote for 90915-YZZM1. :) Actually, thanks a ton for your help.

To be totally fair, I haven't installed this filter yet. I purchased the oil and filter from my local dealer last week. I planed on doing the service last weekend. But, my plans were changed when my employer decided I needed to work all weekend. My current plans are to do the service within the next couple of days.


I've also been confused about why stuff like this is so hard to find. Even though the filter looks a lot smaller than usual (compared to other vehicles I've owned). The diameter of the filter and threads size looks like it should be fairly compatible with aftermarket products. And, both the filter and the oil were really cheaper than what I normally pay for an oil service. Just not sure of the quality though?


I did like how the filter came with a crush washer. But, then again, I've never had to replace a crush washer before?
 
#15 ·
I have a 2008 Sport with the V8. Not that my filter would be the same as what you need. (mine is a paper element that you put into the aluminum housing). Mine is: Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA1 Oil Filter and 90430-12028 Oil Drain Plug Gasket Oil

Note: when I have bought this from Amazon with free Prime member shipping, the cost is actually about twice what I would pay if I bought it at the dealer.

Note 2: the "drain" screw outlet on the base of the aluminum housing froze shut after the first or second oil change (i.e. a decade ago). I simply never use it, that system never really worked anyway, the oil gets on my gloved hand anyway. I just have my oil catch basin under the area and that has about a 10-inch diameter catching hole. Of course: drain the oil from the car before you unmount the filter.
 
#18 ·
Mine is 90915-YZZF2 for 1998 RAV4.

P.S. Change your own oil, DIY. Retail oil changes leave too much room for fraud, scams, rip-offs. I've changed my own oil on my Toyotas since... 1986. Complete oil change takes me c. 7-min. All OEM Toyota parts. Don't be a TLA (Typical Lazy American). Change your own oil. It's the single most important maintenance step you can take to ensure longevity in your precious RAV4. Is seven minutes twice a year worth it?



P.S. If you still need your part number, keep calling Toyota Dealer Parts Depts. until one of them gives you the 10-digit hyphenated number. Did I mention, change your own dad-gum oil?
 
#21 ·
Complete oil change takes me c. 7-min. ------ Is seven minutes twice a year worth it?

When you add the tire rotation into the mix, it gets a little more complicated. I always rotate with every oil change. Rubber is expensive. I've managed to get 80K+ out of 60K tires by being timely with the rotations.

take sand paper and rough up the area between the full and add marks

Thanks for the idea. I'm thinking about actually attempting some sort of knurl. I've seen an applicator somewhere in my journeys. Maybe Harbor Freight. I've also though about scoring the knurl pattern with a razor knife. Or maybe even a dremmel.
 
#22 ·
I am not sure why we have to try and insult people in regard to what car work is done. Some make way more money than I do and have other priorities as to how they wish to spend their time. However I would let the oil drain way more than seven minutes.


When I had my MR2; we tore apart filters as we were trying to figure the "best" filter (you know, OCD silly stuff). I had purchased a 2007 during that time. We found that the oil filter from assembly had a different filter media than the "routine" filter. We had many theories as to why...but nothing concrete.



I have also not read anywhere that Toyota uses a break in oil. If it does, it usually has higher moly in it and you might not want to change it out early. That being said, I haven't read anywhere that Toyota does that. I usually will change mine out early. Usually within 500 miles if I can.
 
#25 ·
I have also not read anywhere that Toyota uses a break in oil. If it does, it usually has higher moly in it and you might not want to change it out early. That being said, I haven't read anywhere that Toyota does that. I usually will change mine out early. Usually within 500 miles if I can.

I've never heard of a "break-In" oil ran for 10,000 miles either. I do know of an advanced concept know as "conditioning". I'm not sure if it's real or just superstition. But it really doesn't matter because I'm doing the 5K regardless.

Yes, I suppose it was a couple of decades ago when it was common to talk about "break-in oil," and getting it (along with all of the metal shavings that would be in that oil) out of your engine within 1,000 miles. I sure haven't heard anything like that since we began the era wherein most cars came filled with synthetic oil -- and very lightweight oil at that. What I have heard, instead, has been how engines have been built with far more precision than they once were, and simply don't "wear off the rough edges" during the first 1,000 miles, since there utterly aren't any "rough edges" anymore.

I'm quite sure that this /\ /\ /\ is the key to 10,000 mile oil changes.

I trust 10k oil changes.
I don't trust minimum wage oil change monkeys... dealer or Iffy Lube.

No doubt that engines are made better and last longer than ever before. I have to wonder if the 10K change interval is designed to assist the service departments?
 
#23 ·
Yes, I suppose it was a couple of decades ago when it was common to talk about "break-in oil," and getting it (along with all of the metal shavings that would be in that oil) out of your engine within 1,000 miles. I sure haven't heard anything like that since we began the era wherein most cars came filled with synthetic oil -- and very lightweight oil at that. What I have heard, instead, has been how engines have been built with far more precision than they once were, and simply don't "wear off the rough edges" during the first 1,000 miles, since there utterly aren't any "rough edges" anymore.


Still, to me, the whole concept of regular oil changes is "to get the crud out of your engine" that winds up in the oil, and thus oil changes more often are more prudent, if you intend to keep your car for more than a few years. As I have mentioned, I have been going to the same shop for over 35 years, and the guys there are entirely comfortable with 5,000-mile intervals, but not 10,000-mile intervals. And I can certainly live with that. So, the mileage intervals are easy. Trying to find the part number for the proper oil filter has been the toughest part.
 
#28 ·
That 10,000-mi. Oil Change Interval is... nonsense. Don't fall prey to it. Clean oil is your first, foremost, critical defense to the longevity of your vehicle. Don't switch around w/ different brands. Pick one brand, stick w/ it exclusively. Don't switch grades. Pick one grade, stick w/ it. Don't switch between Conventional and Synthetic and back again. Pick one and stick w/ it. Install Genuine OEM Toyota Filters & OEM new crush washers for Oil Pan Drain Plug. Use good quality oil. CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL DIY! Be kind to your engine. It's the one single thing you can do to ''keep your Toyota forever.''

Rule-of-Thumb Scotty Kilmer Rx. for Change Intervals:
3,400-4,000 mi. CONVENTIONAL OIL
7,000-8,000 mi. SYNTHETIC OIL
 
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#29 ·
That 10,000-mi. Oil Change Interval is... nonsense. Don't fall prey to it. Clean oil is your first, foremost, critical defense to the longevity of your vehicle. Don't switch around w/ different brands. Pick one brand, stick w/ it exclusively. Don't switch grades. Pick one grade, stick w/ it. Don't switch between Conventional and Synthetic and back again. Pick one and stick w/ it. Install Genuine OEM Toyota Filters & OEM new crush washers for Oil Pan Drain Plug. Use good quality oil.

Rule-of-Thumb Scotty Kilmer Rx. for Change Intervals:
3,400-4,000 mi. CONVENTIONAL OIL
7,000-8,000 mi. SYNTHETIC OIL

While I can agree for the most part with the blue (due to EPA "waste" and CAFE numbers influencing 10K changes); most of the stuff above it is fear mongering and older schools of thought. What is the basis of not switching between brands, grade and other such nonsense? Keep the grade within the recommended chart (and remember the chart in the manual is from North America where CAFE heavily influences it) and there is absolutely no issue switching back and forth between syn and conventional as there is no ramification to doing that.

The OEM filter is no better than any other after market one but you can go wrong by putting the cheapest filter on (orange can). Cutting filters apart has shown that. If you are not sure, then of course go OEM. But in general there are much better options out there.

In choosing your oil you want to look at a datasheet similar to the weblink below looking at NoACK, Ash and HTHS numbers. I don't use Valvoline but it was easy to get too to show the data. Another thing to consider is with DI motors that there is a large amount of micro-soot in the oil as well as fuel dilution that will reduce the OCIs.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
 
#31 ·
At first the service department tried to give me a cartridge filter, thanks to folks here I said it was likely a canister.
The terms "cartridge" and "canister" can be confusing, as us old-timers tend to use those terms interchangeably for the raw element type filter (that was extremely common before the late 60s)
It is more clear to use the therm "spin-on" to refer to the type with a metal housing.

But seriously... before buying a part from the dealer, roll under your car and confirm what is needed so you don't risk a return trip at an inconvenient time.
 
#32 ·
Cartridge are housed within other containers, think bullet in a gun, ink in a printer. Cannister suggest an outside shrouding material. I had pondered using "spin-on", I'm certainly familiar with the term. But it begs the question of what to call a cartridge filter. "Non-spin-on" seems poor, referring to something by what is is not. Maybe "paper filter".

I've rarely gotten the wrong parts from dealers and suppliers. I've rebuilt over a dozen engines, done a similar number of brake jobs, numerous oil changes. Maybe I'm lucky.

That said, I did crawl under May, my new Limited. I was able to confirm the 90915 portion of the part number, the remainder was occluded and unavailable until removal. Can you check that part for us?

The complete part number, that the dealer sold me, is 90915-YZZM1 I post this because I can't open my posted image, a problem I've had with other's posts as well.
 
#35 ·
Your Dealership's Parts Dept. will/should provide part number for your vehicle's correct-fitment Oil Filter.
 
#37 ·
I don't understand the dilemma? I posted a pick of the correct filter earlier in this thread. It's identical to the one I removed from the vehicle for "my" first 5k oil service. And the one in the pick is currently installed on the vehicle. ???
 
#39 ·
Anyone know if we can do the oil change without jacking up the car?

On my old car (2016 Honda CRV, no under aerodynamic plastic), I just barely has enough room and these new 2019 RAV looks to be sitting a little higher. Just did the 5k tire rotation with a manual jack and jack stands.
 
#40 ·
Anyone know if we can do the oil change without jacking up the car?
It would be very tight. I’ve checked it out, I’m a small guy and could do it but will raise the front a bit. I’ll be driving it up maybe 3 or 4 inches in the front. I emphatically disagree with the “common sense”, as one poster puts it, that the vehicle must be flat to properly drain the oil. The drain hole is located at a bend in the oil pan that compensates for mild angles, a look under the car will confirm this. That is, the oil pan forms a vee whose “crotch”, where the plug is located, remains the lowest point as the front is raised, at least to moderate degrees.
 
#47 ·
Will 90915-YZZN1 OEM filter also work? I found a pretty good deal and was hoping to pick up 4-5 of these filters to save on repeat shipping cost.

Filter S A Oil - Toyota (90915-YZZN1)

Also, can someone confirm that these are the OEM Oil Drain Plug Gasket I should be using for my 2019 Rav4 Hybrid?

Thank you in advance.
Yes, 90915-YZZF2 is the one for 5th gen RAV4 and some other models. The part number can be replaced by newer ones.

The oil drain plug gasket looks right but I do not have a part number.
 
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