Would like to do my own maintenance, what do I need ??? - Page 2 - Toyota RAV4 Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:25 AM
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The oil filter may be difficult to remove by hand. It's nestled into a somewhat confined space that wont allow a firm hand grip. Again, I'd look for a tool that cups the end like the specialized tool for removing the cartrige filter housings. It's possible the tool to which you link would work if skewed, not something I like to do. I'll post again if I find a suitable tool, at least I have an oil filter in hand for verification. Still 800 mile to go before I perform the first change (1000 miles).

EDIT: This looks to be an appropriate tool for this filter BUT I have not tested that assertion. The OEM filter has 14 flutes and measures 64.13 mm across the flats. I'll probably take the filter in to an auto parts store and match it to a tool. The OEM part number is 90915-YZZM1. (I have verified the numerical part on the factory installed filter but cannot see the remainder due to the previously mentioned tight fit. I looks right from external appearances.)

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-248...NTAC19NPHKQHWD
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:29 AM
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If it allows you to get the filter off, then you are good to go!

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 02:46 PM
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OK will like to do my own maintenance so what do I need ???

One : Car ramps, can someone recommend a brand or type ???
Two : Car jack, how many "tons" should I buy ???
Three : Jack stands, what do I need to know about them ???
Four : Tools, that I have in metric is that OK or should I get Standard US measurements ???
Five : Catch pan and funnels, ok I have those !!!

Anything else I should know and get, just planing head, presently have about 500km.

Thanks for you helps.
As for car ramps, I use to have metal ones which slid on the garage concrete floor as soon as the tire hit the front of the ramps. This was back in the mid 90's and I needed ramps for my 1990 Mazda RX7, which was very low in front. I made a set of wood ramps from 2X10 lumber and screwed the pieces together. See the below video of a set very similar to mine. The only difference is that I cut each front piece at a 45 degree angle and they work perfect. Do not slide on the concrete floor and I have used these ramps for Camry's, my prior Highlander and they work perfect on my 2016 Rav4 Hybrid. Plus, these stack easily against the garage wall, taking up very little space.

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 03:28 PM
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. . . I made a set of wood ramps from 2X10 lumber and screwed the pieces together. See the below video of a set very similar to mine. The only difference is that I cut each front piece at a 45 degree angle and they work perfect.
Just what I was thinking except I'll use 2" stock, bandsaw the 45į. Thanks for the idea of the little stop on the end, good for feedback.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your input. I think I will make the top step 24" instead of 15" plus I will most likely cut them at a 45 degree angle for easier and safer climbing.

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As for car ramps, I use to have metal ones which slid on the garage concrete floor as soon as the tire hit the front of the ramps. This was back in the mid 90's and I needed ramps for my 1990 Mazda RX7, which was very low in front. I made a set of wood ramps from 2X10 lumber and screwed the pieces together. See the below video of a set very similar to mine. The only difference is that I cut each front piece at a 45 degree angle and they work perfect. Do not slide on the concrete floor and I have used these ramps for Camry's, my prior Highlander and they work perfect on my 2016 Rav4 Hybrid. Plus, these stack easily against the garage wall, taking up very little space.

DIY Car Ramps (How to: Build and Use) - YouTube

2019 Rav4 LE AWD Silver Sky Metallic, came with 3KM ODO
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 05:47 PM
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Part of the deal on mine was 2 years free maintenance. Is that not standard in both US and Canada?

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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Not for me as it was offered as an opinion. I didn't go for it because I do not like the way they change the oil etc. I'm just a picky guy and wants things to be done the correct way, my friends say that I do things over-kill but they are the first ones to ask me that if I sell they are will to pay me extra because they know it's done right. Doesn't mean others don't do it right but not easy to find. Plus, it's easy, takes less time and maybe save a couple of bucks.

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Part of the deal on mine was 2 years free maintenance. Is that not standard in both US and Canada?

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:33 PM
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Just to throw out my $0.02


Skip the ramp idea. The car needs to be sitting level for a through drain. May be unnecessary, but I always lower the vehicle back to level while the oil is draining.


You need 2 good jacks for tire rotation. I always use the OE jack and another floor jack purchased from Harbor Freight.


You need a decent Torque Wrench (Harbor Freight will do). Torque wheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs. And oil drain plug to 18 ft/lbs


For safety, I use a couple of cinder blocks and a couple pieces off of a 4by4 post. Always Chock the wheels and brace next to the jacks.


If you can afford one, get a decent impact driver. Makes life a lot easier on tire rotations. I'm using a Harbor Freight impact driver. And it works OK. But a Dewalt would be a lot better.


I'm using the Cup Style filter wrench. Not much room for anything else.

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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WOW, it's getting complicated. Hoping that someone can make a video on this, seems like a tight spot to remove and put back the oil filter !

Thanks for your 2 cents,


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Just to throw out my $0.02


Skip the ramp idea. The car needs to be sitting level for a through drain. May be unnecessary, but I always lower the vehicle back to level while the oil is draining.


You need 2 good jacks for tire rotation. I always use the OE jack and another floor jack purchased from Harbor Freight.


You need a decent Torque Wrench (Harbor Freight will do). Torque wheel bolts to 100 ft/lbs. And oil drain plug to 18 ft/lbs


For safety, I use a couple of cinder blocks and a couple pieces off of a 4by4 post. Always Chock the wheels and brace next to the jacks.


If you can afford one, get a decent impact driver. Makes life a lot easier on tire rotations. I'm using a Harbor Freight impact driver. And it works OK. But a Dewalt would be a lot better.


I'm using the Cup Style filter wrench. Not much room for anything else.

2019 Rav4 LE AWD Silver Sky Metallic, came with 3KM ODO
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Andre Lofano View Post
Not for me as it was offered as an opinion. I didn't go for it because I do not like the way they change the oil etc. I'm just a picky guy and wants things to be done the correct way, my friends say that I do things over-kill but they are the first ones to ask me that if I sell they are will to pay me extra because they know it's done right. Doesn't mean others don't do it right but not easy to find. Plus, it's easy, takes less time and maybe save a couple of bucks.
That may be why my dealer doesn't seem to be the low price champion. However my days or doing my own service are over. I'm too old to risk hurting myself or screwing something up and THEN having to let the dealer fix my mistakes. My garage loaded with tools, ramps, and jacks is evidence of my younger days.

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