A/F Sensor Testing - Toyota RAV4 Forums
4.2 Faults & Fixes Got a problem with your RAV4.2?
Share it here, and maybe even find a solution.

User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: jc2003Rav4's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Angry A/F Sensor Testing

I have a 2003 Rav4 with the 1AZ-FE 4 cylinder engine. I just had to put in a new catalytic converter and also had to replace one of the A/F Sensors. After replacing the catalytic converter, it threw a P1150 code. So I put in a sensor from Advance Auto, drove the car about 50 miles, reset the code and it threw the same one again. I exchanged the sensor at Advance Auto thinking it might just be a bad sensor. Drove the car about 80 miles, reset the code and P1150 again. So this time, I got the genuine Toyota replacement because I heard that sometimes the after market items aren't as good. Did the same things again. Same code again. Replaced the Toyota sensor with another one. Same thing, P1150. So now I'm thinking it could be electrical. Can anyone assist me with how to trouble shoot an electrical issue with an A/F sensor? How and what do you test? Wiring diagram, etc. Anything would help at this point. I'm pulling what hair I have left out!
jc2003Rav4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 10:06 AM
Advanced Member
Country: DL175's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,083
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 448 Post(s)
Thanks: 8
Thanked 299 Times in 261 Posts
Check if MAF sensor is dirty. Also check if PVC valve is bad. Let us know if this cures things.
DL175 is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: jc2003Rav4's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Will do. I don't currently have the RAV4 with me. It may be a while before I can check these things. It does have about 150,000 miles on it so this could be the issue. But why throw a P1150 code? You would think there would be a code for the MAF at least.

Thanks for the input.
jc2003Rav4 is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 08:20 PM
Advanced Member
Country: FixIt's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 731
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Thanks: 23
Thanked 136 Times in 121 Posts
You have two upstream air/fuel ratio sensors. Which one did you replace? The one on the driver's side or the one on the passenger side?


The sensor on the driver's side is for cylinders 1 and 4. The sensor on the passenger side is for cylinders 2 and 3. You should have replaced the sensor on the passenger side.


These sensor do not interchange. The connectors are different.

Mine : 2009 Avalon XL Magnetic Gray Metallic
Hers : 2010 RAV4 Base 2.5 AWD Pacific Blue Metallic

If I have helped, please hit the thanks button.
FixIt is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: jc2003Rav4's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
I replaced the one on the passenger side (upper one). This is the one that was indicated by the P1150 code. I'll clean the MAF and put in a new PCV valve this weekend and then post my results.
jc2003Rav4 is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 10:05 AM
Advanced Member
Country: Dr. Dyno's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 8,729
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1190 Post(s)
Thanks: 622
Thanked 993 Times in 872 Posts
What exactly does a P1150 code state?

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Barcelona Red Limited - wife's
2018 Accord Hybrid, Blue Pearl - Dr. Dyno's - 47/47 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2003 F-250 4X4 - eventual replacement for the '99
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport
1968 Volvo 1800S

It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!!


"If you really believe you get what you pay for there's no such thing as a good deal."
Dr. Dyno is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 08:18 PM
Advanced Member
Country: FixIt's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 731
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Thanks: 23
Thanked 136 Times in 121 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Dyno View Post
What exactly does a P1150 code state?

According to my information DTC P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)



To obtain a high purification rate for the CO, HC and NOx components of the exhaust gas, a three-way catalytic converter is used. But, for the most efficient use of the three-way catalytic converter, the air-fuel ratio must be precisely controlled so that it is always close to the stoichiometric air-fuel ratio.
The A/F sensor has the characteristic that provides output voltage* approximately proportional to the existing air-fuel ratio. The A/F sensor output voltage* is used to provide feedback for the ECM to control the air-fuel ratio. By the A/F sensor output, the ECM can determine the deviation amount from the stoichiometric air-fuel ratio and control the proper injection time immediately. If the A/F sensor is malfunctioning, ECM is unable to perform accurate air-fuel ratio control.
The A/F sensor is equipped with a heater which heats the zirconia element. The heater is controlled by the ECM. When the intake air volume is low (the temp. of the exhaust gas is low), current flows to the heater to heat the sensor for accurate oxygen concentration detection.
*: The voltage value changes at the inside of the ECM only.

HINT:


  • Bank 1 refers to the bank that includes cylinder No.1.
  • Bank 2 refers to the bank that includes cylinder No.2.
  • Sensor 1 refers to the sensor closet to the engine body.
  • If DTC P1130, is displayed, check Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit.
  • If DTC P1150, is displayed, check Bank 2 Sensor 1 circuit.
  • After confirming DTC P1130 use the OBD II scan tool or TOYOTA hand-held tester to confirm the voltage output of the A/F sensor (AFS B1 S1/02S B1 S1) from the CURRENT DATA.
  • The A/F sensor's output voltage and the short-term fuel value can be read using the OBD II scan tool or TOYOTA hand-held tester.
  • The ECM controls the voltage of AF1A+/AF2A+ and AF1A-/AF2A- terminals of the ECM to the fixed voltage. Therefore, it is impossible to confirm the A/F sensor output voltage without the OBD II scan tool or TOYOTA hand-held tester.

Mine : 2009 Avalon XL Magnetic Gray Metallic
Hers : 2010 RAV4 Base 2.5 AWD Pacific Blue Metallic

If I have helped, please hit the thanks button.
FixIt is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-11-2014, 08:21 PM
Advanced Member
Country: FixIt's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 731
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Thanks: 23
Thanked 136 Times in 121 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jc2003Rav4 View Post
I replaced the one on the passenger side (upper one). This is the one that was indicated by the P1150 code. I'll clean the MAF and put in a new PCV valve this weekend and then post my results.

Here is a snip of the sensor locations.


Since you used a Denso sensor, and other brands have produced the same results, I think you can safely rule out a bad sensor. The wiring is suspect next.
Cleaning the MAF sensor and replacing the PCV valve will not correct this code. If there were faults with either the MAF sensor or PCV valve, you would also have a code P1130. The MAF sensor cannot affect two cylinders nor can the PCV valve.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg af.JPG (31.8 KB, 16 views)

Mine : 2009 Avalon XL Magnetic Gray Metallic
Hers : 2010 RAV4 Base 2.5 AWD Pacific Blue Metallic

If I have helped, please hit the thanks button.
FixIt is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: jc2003Rav4's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Thanks Fixit. That was my thoughts. I did go ahead and clean the MAF and put in a new PCV just in case. These two things needed it anyway. It did bring the idle down a few ticks which was good.

So would anyone be able to assist me with how to go about testing the wiring. I know the coupling has 4 wires and they ultimately go back to the ECM/ECU but I wouldn't have a clue as to how and test them.
jc2003Rav4 is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Country: jc2003Rav4's Flag is: United States
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter)
No one knows how to test the connectors electrical properties?

I'm stumped on this one.

Any input on testing would be appreciated. Not testing the A/F sensor but the plug/wiring for it going from the connector (4 wires) to the ECM.
jc2003Rav4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome