Vacuum Line replacement with high temp silicone lines - Page 4 - Toyota RAV4 Forums
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 03:54 PM
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Elliot--
1// Did you follow this video? I get great results. If not, start over and do again. Use old rags & toothbrush to clean Throttle Body per Scotty's instructions. 2// Install new OEM Genuine Toyota PCV Valve-- they're inexpensive but should be R&R'd every 2-3 yrs. Don't go El Cheapo on crummy aftermarket. 3// Clean MAF Sensor (removed from vehicle) if you have one.

P.S. Please add your year-make-model to your "Signature" so we know at-a-glance what we're advising. Your video:



'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.
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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 05:26 PM
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Hey Techsus,


I did follow that very procedure.. if anything the problem is a little more pronounced now! I checked the PCV valve, pulled it off and shook it about, sprayed some cleaner through it and got the gunk off and put it back. My rav doesn't have an MFA sensor.


I'm hoping that replacing the vacuum lines helps this issue, they're pretty old and some are starting to split a little at the ends. Do you think a vacuum leak could cause the fumes coming out the gas cap? would love to not get a face full of gasoline smell every time I'm at the pump!


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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 05:33 PM
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Elliot,

We're in same boat: Terminals of my hoses and vacuum lines are splitting, cracking, generally drying out. Not surprising after 22-yrs., huh?

My "hose replacement" Campaign began last week w/ my order (from McGeorge online OEM Genuine wholesale-prices) for both my Toyotas (1991 pickup, 1998 RAV4): OEM genuine PCV Valve, Grommet, and both "PCV Ventilation Hoses." It's a beginning. Next will be replacing as many Vacuum lines as I can DIY w/ eodgator's input (as above).

I still Rx R&R'ing PCV Valve, they 1/ Do wear out 2/ Are cheaply priced.

Yes, do check for vacuum leaks w/ smoke machine. Or-- Scotty Kilmer has another video, " How to Find Vacuum Leaks With a Cigar (Life Hack):


'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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About that fuel smell from gas cap.
- Replace the gas cap
- Check the condition of the filler hose, replace if necessary.
- Check the fuel and vent lines

It's difficult to troubleshoot with vacuum leaks, just replace the vacuum lines. All the lines can be replaced with the engine in the the car.
- If you have a AWD, follow the steps in my post on this thread time stamped 10-04-2018, 12:31 PM for changing out the vacuum lines going to the vacuum actuator
- The really tough one is the one getting to the EGR VSV. First, take a look at one of the other VSVs that are easy to reach and see how it disconnects, practice doing it by feel because you are going to do this by feel. If you have large arms get a lady, teenager, or someone else with smaller arms to do the reaching.
- See this link and you will find some advise, the last post is helpful, remove the battery to get better access, and lay a heavy blanket, carpet, or whatever over the engine so that you can lay over the top of the engine so that you can reach it, see for more info https://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4...ustration.html
- If you have to, take the intake manifold off, it does have some advantages, you can thoroughly clean the manifold, the throttle body, and the EGR system, and of course it gives you much easier access to the EGR VSV.
- Or you can buy a new EGR VSV and mount it to the firewall like a lot people do so they never have to worry about it again. I had to extend the electrical harness so it would reach

If those lines are cracked, you probably have other problems lurking. Check the soft fuel and vent lines, check all the coolant hoses including those that you cannot see running under the lower exhaust manifold heat shield, check the soft brake lines. Inspect the transmission cooler hoses, oh wait you cannot, they have a nylon covering so, just replace them.

It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, and as Techsus stated PCV valves are cheap and because of the damage they can do if they fail I replace it after 50,000 miles.

The other thing that you could do is when pulling your spark plugs, do a wet and dry compression check on each cylinder and that will tell you if you have a more serious issue going on. You can get a compression check tool at many parts stores for free, all you have to do is pay a deposit. When checking the cylinders, write down the results as you go. Let us know what you find

Observations to make:
Have someone start the car after it has sat a while like overnight while you watch the exhaust.
- Is there a puff of blue smoke on start up? If so that is often worn out valve seals.
- Is there a constant blue smoke?
- Is there a white smoke?
- Or better yet no smoke at all?
- Does the smoke smell like gas or antifreeze?

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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 12:04 PM
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I hear you on the PCV valve, I'll get one ordered with a new grommet. The rav only has 124k on it, and there's no smoke at all on start up.


I checked out those videos on the EGR vsv.. seems like relocating it is definitely the way to go seeming the dreaded P0401 could always be right around the corner. On the youtube comments some people mentioned taking of the passenger side wheel, getting right up in the wheel well and being able to get decent access to the vsv. Maybe I'll look at popping it off when I do the t-belt in a couple weeks.


The car runs really great aside from this cold start idle issue. I think replacing all the vacuum lines first and ruling those out is a great place to start.


As far as a compression test goes, it might be nice to do just to know the overall health of the engine.


while I'm doing all the vacuum lines I may as well replace the vent line and evap line from the tank assuming they're not too hard to get to. Time to show this little car some love!

1999 LE AWD
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:04 PM
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Thank you, Eodgator!
What a great idea color coding the hoses!
I'll investigate further and report back...
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