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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 12:39 AM
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Mine was on there tight, and took a good bit of effort to break her free, copious amounts of break free, and I ended up heating the plugs briefly with a propane torch and they came out with a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact wrench. They are only supposed to be torqued to 36 ft lbs but it seems like there was some thread lock on the plugs, but I don't remember for sure. Of course it may have been serviced before and unfortunately a lot of mechanics just use impact wrenches and over torque everything.

It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

RAV4.1, 1999 RAV4, 3S-FE engine, E250F transaxle 5sp AWD, 5 door, LHD, Redneck Edition (RNE), Mossy Oak Obsession wrap, heavily modded, TOAD
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 01:03 AM
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The E250 is the 2wd version and the E250F is the 4wd version. Obviously the main difference being all the rear wheel drive parts and actuator. A bit of trivia the RAV4.1s is that the 4wd engine block is different than the 2wd version, the 4wd version has mounting points for the transaxle that the 2wd does not have.

E250


E250F

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RAV4.1, 1999 RAV4, 3S-FE engine, E250F transaxle 5sp AWD, 5 door, LHD, Redneck Edition (RNE), Mossy Oak Obsession wrap, heavily modded, TOAD
'96 Newmar Mountain Aire, 40' diesel pusher motorhome, the mothership
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 12:17 PM
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Hi Techsus, my 1998 Rav4's fill and drain plugs came off with just a bit of umph (as Scotty Kilmer puts it): A one foot or so pipe extension on the end of an 8-inch or so breaker bar. The jack method in the youtube video is great, afaic, though I try not to apply this amount of torque to my nice Craftsman ratchets. Use a breaker bar wherever possible, as I bet you know. Also I suggest driving the Rav until it is at normal operating temperature, then park the Rav and immediately try to free the bolts. When bolts are warmed, they expand length-wise, reducing the diameter a bit and freeing them up some.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-24-2018, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hi RAVers || Elle_Rav4 || eodgator || Mick Hatzo
Success. Broke-free 2WD transmission (i.e., "front") Fill/Drain Bolts tonight in-advance of 28DEC2018 arrival Red Line #50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil 1-Gal. Nice Christmas Eve gift to myself, knowing that come Friday these bolts will be a cinch to remove.

TOOLS/MATERIALS:
~Home Depot Husky 15/16-in. Socket 3/8-in.-Drive 6-point $2.47
~AutoZone DuraLast Breaker Bar 9.5-in. 3/8-in.-Drive $11.99
~PB Blaster, "the elixir of Life as we know it"
~Fluted Pipe (my personal jury-rigged ''breaker bar extension")

METHOD: Applied PB Blaster last night w/ Q-Tip (preferred over "spray everything" method). Let soak-in overnight. Tonight, drove for 1.5-hrs. to warm engine/transmission (important!). Cut engine. Immediately apply Socket + Breaker Bar: no movement. Then Socket + Breaker Bar + extension = both bolts break quickly. Remove Filler Bolt, gather fluid sample (looks fairly clean, thank goodness). Snug both bolts until upcoming fluid change (RedLine arrives 28DEC2018).

TIPS: 1/ PB Blaster 2/ Hot engine.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.

Last edited by Techsus; 12-24-2018 at 09:51 PM. Reason: correct wonky spacing
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Friends, thank you for making this routine maintenance R&R an enjoyable experience.

Sure did help that I broke Fill Plug & Drain Plug loose earlier in the week (as noted above). Made this job so much easier.

R&R job finished today in uncomfortable 53F 12-mph wind.
My homemade "Breaker Bar extension" is an 18-in. pipe fluted on both ends. Can't live w/out it.

SPECS:

CAPACITY:
~1.1-Gal. RAV-4 manual transmission gear oil
~ACTUAL AMT. TODAY: after thoroughly draining gearbox w/ hot engine: she took c. 7/8-Gal.
TORQUE: 36-Ft.Lb. = 48.81-Nm (both Fill/Drain plugs)

TOOLS/MATERIALS SUMMARY:

SOCKETS:
~Home Depot Husky 15/16-in. Socket 3/8-in.-Drive 6-point $2.47 [used w/ breaker bar & extension]
~3/8-in. Ratchet Drive
~Tekton 24-mm. Socket 1/2-in.-Drive 6-point [only used w/ 1/2-drive torque wrench]

BREAKERS:
~AutoZone DuraLast Breaker Bar 9.5-in. 3/8-in.-Drive $11.99
~Homemade "breaker bar extension" = 18-in. fluted-ends hollow steel pipe
~PB Blaster, "the Elixir of Life as we know it"
~TORQUE WRENCH: AutoZone rental: 1/2-in. Drive [A/Z's 3/8-in. Drive did not achieve anywhere "near" 36-Ft.Lb.]

DRAIN & REFILL:

~PAN: 8-Qt. enclosed oil drain pan
~FUNNEL (up top in engine bay, just right of air box, I jammed funnel into clear tubing)
~FILL TUBE: 26-in. x 1/2-in. I.D. (5/8-in. O.D.) clear plastic tubing (at nether end, jammed into Fill-Hole)
~GEAR OIL: GL-4 Red Line 1-Gal. #50305 [or #50304 (1-Qt.)] MT-90 Manual Transmission Oil 75W-90 Synthetic Amazon $58.95
~CRUSH WASHERS: GENUINE TOYOTA DRAIN PLUG GASKET WASHER 10-pack OEM #90430-18008 eBAY $8.54
~Liquid Wrench Dielectric Grease/Anti-Seize Lube: smeared on cleaned-off Fill/Drain Bolts & 2-Crush Washers "for next time"!
~TRANSPORT JUG: Clean 1-Gal. water jug, to transport spent gear oil to recycle facility (Firestone Tire)
~RAGS

'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.

Last edited by Techsus; 12-28-2018 at 10:53 PM. Reason: goofy spacing
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Happy New Year friends!
Before I close this Thread, a question for our resident engineers-- a happy question.
Before R&R'ing my FWD manual-transmission fluid (specs, as posted above), when starting out in 1st-Gear, transmission shuddered so much I had to feather the clutch in a motion I call "high-topping the clutch" to get it to quit. It got so bad, usually I'd start out in 2nd-Gear. I usually have to switch into 2nd at very low speeds, anyway.

Now, after changing the transmission fluid, in the several times I've driven, shuddering is gone. Is it my imagination? Spent fluid was a "root-beer brown," not hugely dirty & no sludge. If they put the "wrong" Gear Oil in there when clutch was changed 73,005-mi. ago-- would that cause clutch "chattering"? Or what was going on, that R&R'ing fluid would smooth it out? As usual, thanks for taking time.

'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 10:12 PM
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Happy New Years,

Yes, many jump and buy synthetics because they are better, the problem for your synchros is that most synthetics are too slippery and cause the very problems you are talking about. That is why I pointed out that initially you were planning on using the wrong fluid. I'm glad your transmission problems are clearing up.

It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

RAV4.1, 1999 RAV4, 3S-FE engine, E250F transaxle 5sp AWD, 5 door, LHD, Redneck Edition (RNE), Mossy Oak Obsession wrap, heavily modded, TOAD
'96 Newmar Mountain Aire, 40' diesel pusher motorhome, the mothership
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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eodgator, Thanks for helping make 2018 a wondrous DIY experience! Here's to more RAV4 success in 2019.

As you know, Red Line #50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil 1 Gal. I employed here is "Full Synthetic;" however, you were correct (of course) that I was originally looking at wrong (GL-5) ...based on what I was mis-told by not one, but two, Toyota Dealership Parts Dept. guys! One reason R4W is utterly invaluable. "Always check, then double-check, then TRIPLE check part numbers," I say!
Thank you for describing the "too slippery" scenario. Scotty Kilmer is always advising to NOT change transmission fluid on high-mileage cars if it hasn't been done regularly, because new-fresh fluid can cause slippage (transmission comes to "rely" on friction of dirty oil for "Grip & Go" power).

This group, what a GEM!

CLOSING this thread now. If I find useful photos of R&R, will post above. || "TECHSUS OUT" ||

'98 RAV4 5-Speed 2WD 4-Dr. hardtop 2.0-L. gas I-4 engine. Venetian Red Pearl. Tail Light Guards (Manik). Michelin LTX M/S2 tires & spare. LED headlamps. Roof luggage rack. 5th-door saddle bags. Custom leather steering wheel cover. Sheepskin seat covers. Billiard ball #13 shift knob. Alloy wheels. Push Bar grille guard, LED fog lamps. Suede door panel inserts. Faux-suede center console cover. Driver/passenger grab-assist handles.

Last edited by Techsus; 01-01-2019 at 10:36 PM. Reason: psychedelic spacing
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 02:04 AM
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..Damnit...I just asked a further question about this transmission oil.stuff..on the clutch change thread...see if I can move it..



@ Eodgater.... great info on the manual transmission oil ..but Im a lil confused. You say that manual transmission oil for a synchromesh 'box should NOT have MT-1 in the specs ..... which is fine ..but I have never found a GL-5 transmission oil that was NOT also MT-1!?! ..
Its possible to find GL-4 oil without the MT-1 bit ...but what should 4WD 5spd rav owners do ...given that the advice is always use GL-5??

Im especially interested... since i have a lil synchro issue..and my 'box was recwntly filled with full synth GL-5 with the MT-1 part!
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