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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 02:06 AM
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Thanks for the write ups, fellow Rav'ers. My mom's Rav had been leaking oil massively from the valve cover and maybe the cam/crank seal as well which might have contributed to the belt snapping, but it was overdue anyway as I don't believe the previous owner did it. Installed new water pump, water pump housing seal, gasket, pipe gasket, timing belt, cam seal, crank seal from a kit on ebay of good quality components, as well as oil pump seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug tubes, new accessory belts sourced from other places.

Motor mount bracket was a bear but pass through sockets helped much. Flex head racheting sockets also handy, as noted above.

Video series from an Aussie Rav'er were also helpful.

A little unsure of how much tension needs to be on the accessory belts, though...
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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 10:23 PM
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I sent mine to CJ's to be changed and I consider the RAV4world people's advice of changing the cam shaft and crank shaft seal. It is totally ****ed up. It is now leaking from the cam shaft gasket and from the sides.
Does any one what should I do with this assholes? My car was ok until they messed it up.(They gave a hard time before and I'm planning for a fight)
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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 12:14 PM
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The links arent working anymore. I'm trying to check my engine timing. My belt might have slipped
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mattchewly View Post
The links arent working anymore. I'm trying to check my engine timing. My belt might have slipped
I fixed the pictures in the original post.

Help RAV4World members help you by providing your car's operating location in your profile page. Climate can cause a RAV4 in Dallas Wisconsin to experience a different set of issues when compared to the same model in Dallas Texas.
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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-23-2012, 07:30 PM
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Belt replacement

I've replaced my timing belt twice now. In both cases it was a bit overdo and getting a tad noisy. And in both cases the belt itself looked pretty good but the idler pulley was a tiny bit sloppy and in the second case the water pump was binding.

This time I went with the Aisin water pump/timing kit with oem parts for a little more money (shop around). I feel the previously used, less expensive, Japanese after market brand idler pulley should have held up better.

This is NOT a quick, easy job. If an experienced local shop gives you a good price, go for it except consider supplying the parts with quality stuff. There's too much labor involved to take a chance on cheap parts.
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 05:02 PM
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Got to agree with Blues earlier post. The 3 -14 mm engine mount to block are the most PIA. Prepare to spend the most time on this area. One of three is for most part hidden and very little wiggle room. You will be challenged! Have a nice padded area under as you will be on your back a lot.
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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 07:51 PM
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I had an engine rattle and determined that it was probably caused by timing belt slap, so I ordered a kit which included the water pump, timing belt, pulleys and gaskets. I also ordered all new radiator and heater hoses, thermostat, new belts, and valve cover gasket. And as long as I was here, decided I may as well take care of putting in a new oil pump just in case that was a problem. To do all of this you must remove the valve cover (to hold the cam shafts stationary while you remove the cam pulley). Taking the crankshaft pulley off is a lot of fun, read the following to break that sucker loose.


The crank shaft pulley was being difficult, and the I'm not going through a step by step procedure here for everything but to break the crank shaft pulley bolt loose, perform the following steps... 1) Make sure your timing belt is still installed, if not, reinstall, making sure you put it on properly. 2) Recommend using a pneumatic 1/2" drive 14mm socket and a 1/2" breaker bar, wedge the breaker bar into the front control arm, put the socket on the pulley bolt, turn the pulley clockwise until you can attach the breaker bar into the socket. 3) Ensure the breaker bar is securely wedged. 4) If you disconnected the battery, reconnect. 5) Disable the ignition (you don't want to start the engine) 6) Turn the engine over briefly twice. 7) Check to see if it broke the crank pulley bolt loose, if not try again (I've never had to try again) 8) Now before you remove the cam shaft pulley or the crank shaft pulley, make sure the engine is at top dead center (TDC).

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Last edited by eodgator; 09-26-2016 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Added link for video with timing belt noise.
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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blue View Post
3. Remove 3 bolts holding antilock brake module to fenderwall (12 or 14mm socket) as well as the two bolts holding the brake lines to the wheel well (10mm socket)
Can someone confirm that the hydraulic lines to the antilock brake module do not have to be disconnected for a timing belt replacement? My Haynes manual says otherwise.

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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blue View Post

10. Remove the bracket at the front face of the motor that attaches to the engine mount. WARNING THIS IS TRICKY. The problem is that there is little clearance between the fender wall and the three 14mm bolt heads that hold the bracket to the motor. If you stick a 14mm socket on these bolts, it may be diffficult to get off due to the tight spot and lack of clearance and webbing cast into the bracket. Here are some ideas to help you keep/get out of trouble.

-A. The goal is to crack the bolts loose with the socket... do not try to extract fully as the bolt will drive the socket into the fender wall.

A. Use a shallow 14mm socket. You may wish to simply sacrifice an old 14mm and grind it down. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU GRIND DOWN A 14mm SOCKET AFTER NOW HAVING CHANGED TWO TIMING BELTS.

B. Try to remove the bolts with a box-end 14mm (tough to do)

C. Use penetrating oil to reduce workload.

D. If you are stuck in there with a 14mm and are tired of cursing and are now reading this, here is what you do... use a small screw driver to flick the direction latch on the ratchet and tighten in the bolt then work/wiggle the ratchet to get it loose. Lowering or raising the motor can help a lot here!!!!! You can also twist the motor a littte to... be patient... you can work the socket off... I did this twice!

Does this mean it is best to shorten the length of the 14mm socket? Or does the poster mean that the socket outer diameter is too large and needs to be ground down?
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 02:54 PM
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It means to shorten it, grind/cut the open end down so it just fits over a bolt head. This does make it a lot easier. I found it easier to get the mount off without damaging the cover, break the opposite side engine mount loose so you can shift the engine slightly.

While you are in there replace that water pump, unless you just like taking this all apart again.

Make sure you tighten the timing belt properly or you will be doing it over again.

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