I would only buy the cam- and crankshaft seals from an actual Toyota dealer or known reputable Toyota re-seller. I recently saw some counterfeit Denso spark plugs on both Amazon and eBay -- counterfeit parts are a big deal. I was once sold a counterfeit Mercedes fan clutch....by Amazon! (Amazon got sued by MB for re-selling counterfeit parts). As you know, those seals are such a pain to reach that they are the LAST place to cut corners or take chances with low-quality parts.
I have used toyotapartsdeal.com a lot over the years, and they are the real deal, but they take a while to ship. I have also used https://parts.stevinsontoyotawest.com
, which is one of my local dealers. Their website is kinda a pain, though -- you have to click on the little tiny "Search" at the top right of the page, and enter in your exact part number. But, they have good prices and reasonable shipping.
The Lisle seal puller is a great tool. Its important not to scratch up those surfaces on the cam- and crankshaft (or else you end up with an oil leak), and that tool helps to prevent that. But, I have also used a regular paint can opener tool (like the $1 ones you'll find at Lowes or Home Depot), and just ground it down a little -- that works as a good seal puller in tight places.
(It is not part of what your belt job includes, but the single best reason to get the Lisle seal puller is the steering rack pinion seal! That one is a BEAR to remove, and its a known issue on 4.1's that causes a pretty big power steering fluid leak. It is so tight in there, and that tool will save you the need to remove the whole rack, if you ever find your 4.1 develops a leak there.)
For the camshaft seal: if you don't want to buy/make/rent a tool to hold the sprocket in place so that you can remove/install the sprocket bolt, you can remove the valve cover and hold the intake cam with a wrench.
There's a cast hexagon spot on the camshaft that you can safely use to hold the cam from turning while you loosen/install that bolt. You need to remove the bolt to be able to remove the sprocket, to get to the seal, but you don't have to remove the cam to remove the seal (although, some people remove the valve cover, then remove the journal that is over that seal to remove the seal -- I don't do this, because I don't like the idea of removing just one camshaft journal, but maybe its okay... I don't know, I just now its not my style).
I made a tool to hold the sprocket, so I don't have to remove the valve cover: my tool is just a metal bar with a hole drilled in it, and then another shorter metal bar hinged in at that hole. At the ends are holes that I run bolts (10.9 strength bolts) though, hold them in place in the holes with nuts behind them, and then I just place those bolts such that they prevent the spokes on the sprocket from turning. I use one hand to hold the tool, and the other to hold a breaker bar to remove the bolt. Then I use a torque wrench to install the bolt. The little tool works well.
Here's the tool, its all its glory, haha:
I also made a tool for removing the harmonic balancer: its just another group of metal bars that I bolted a floor flange to. I had to drill out the inside of the floor flange a little bit to fit my socket, but only because my socket is a thick-walled 6-point impact socket (be sure to use only a 6-point socket that that crankshaft bolt!).
I then drilled holes in the floor flange to align with the holes in the harmonic balancer, which allows me to pass the M8 bolts (10.9 strength) through hole in the flange, and thread them into the threaded holes on the balancer. You can see the picture below that I ground down the perimeter of the floor flange a bit so that it will fit inside the depressed area on the harmonic balancer, and flush up against it so that the bolts can get in well.
The "handle" of that tool then gets placed against a fixed part of the frame (or a stack of wood blocks, whatever works to prevent it from rotating), and I then use a long, 1/2-inch drive extension (20" long, so that it reaches out of the wheel well because I don't have a lift) that's set upon a jackstand, and use a 1/2 drive breaker bar with all my strength to break that bolt free (I don't do the starter method personally, though I know it works, as you said). I can then use this tool setup to torque that bolt down properly, too.
This is my glorious "crankshaft pulley" tool, haha:
(it says "loose" and "tight" because you just move the bar to the other side, depending on whether you're loosening or tightening)
Both of these tools are made from some metal bars I had removed from a filing cabinet that I'd turned into a tool box, but you could use anything of suitable strength, including regular flat steel bars from Home Depot, or even pipe (if you're good at drilling pipe). The extra holes in my tools are just there because they were already drilled in the metal.
There are probably a dozen good ways to do this, so do what works for you!