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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Very reliable and enlightening advice, gentlemen.
Foryota's reply regarding the maintenance ignited some questions:
1- How often do you rust proof? how much do you budget for rust proofing?
2- When do I consider installing a transmission cooler? how much do you budget for it?
3- For our 2012 RAV4 generation, what anticipatory issues do you think I should keep vigilant for, aside from regular maintenance (I take my car on the clock to the dealership every 3-6 months to change oil and do regular maintenance.

Excellent discussion!!

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by docoftheworld View Post
Very reliable and enlightening advice, gentlemen.
Foryota's reply regarding the maintenance ignited some questions:
1- How often do you rust proof? how much do you budget for rust proofing?
2- When do I consider installing a transmission cooler? how much do you budget for it?
3- For our 2012 RAV4 generation, what anticipatory issues do you think I should keep vigilant for, aside from regular maintenance (I take my car on the clock to the dealership every 3-6 months to change oil and do regular maintenance.

Excellent discussion!!

1. If you're in the area where Krown is available- do that yearly, or at least once every 2 years, that was the only thing that worked for me up there in Toronto region. Other treatments tend to create temporary protection that doesn't last winter (salt on the roads) season. In my experience rust mostly starts from inside- when you see the dreaded yellow spot outside it means it already ate metal through. Krown differs from others by spraying inside car panels: they drill holes, spray their stuff and plug them with rubber plugs so next year they don't need to drill again.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:14 AM
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I had some sorta complex over the V6, but truthfully, it was gonna entail a compromise in options AND cost me more $$$. There was a 2010 and 2011 available in my neck of the woods, but someone else bought them.

The I4 has plenty of power and I drive almost entirely in the city.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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I had some sorta complex over the V6, but truthfully, it was gonna entail a compromise in options AND cost me more $$$. There was a 2010 and 2011 available in my neck of the woods, but someone else bought them.

The I4 has plenty of power and I drive almost entirely in the city.
Same here, plus, my I4 is 2012 and only has 30800 miles on it

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 02:26 PM
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I too get my Rav rust proofed at Krown ~ $120 every two years. My 04 Camry before that, ditto, never got any more than a bit of surface rust, and this is serious road salt country. I have never installed a transmission cooler. Most of my trailering is short distances and it's generally cooler here anyways. I perform a drain and fill on the transmission every year, oil stays clean. I take it easy most of the time and more so pulling a trailer; use D3 on hilly roads or constant speeds below 80 km/hr. The only maybe unusual maintenance tissue I have noticed is that the rear brake pads tend to get pretty tight in the frames that hold them due to rust build up. I pull them out every spring clean the mating surfaces with a wire brush, put some high temp grease in the area, pad ends and hardware, without getting any on the actual braking surface, but this is my first vehicle with rear disc brakes; I change parts as necessary using the excellent tutorial found in this forum.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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I too get my Rav rust proofed at Krown ~ $120 every two years. My 04 Camry before that, ditto, never got any more than a bit of surface rust, and this is serious road salt country. I have never installed a transmission cooler. Most of my trailering is short distances and it's generally cooler here anyways. I perform a drain and fill on the transmission every year, oil stays clean. I take it easy most of the time and more so pulling a trailer; use D3 on hilly roads or constant speeds below 80 km/hr. The only maybe unusual maintenance tissue I have noticed is that the rear brake pads tend to get pretty tight in the frames that hold them due to rust build up. I pull them out every spring clean the mating surfaces with a wire brush, put some high temp grease in the area, pad ends and hardware, without getting any on the actual braking surface, but this is my first vehicle with rear disc brakes; I change parts as necessary using the excellent tutorial found in this forum.
Thanks so much for this detailed reply.
Can you clarify the transmission fluid change? I have 30800 miles and want to change the transmission fluid since I've had my 2012 sport for seven years.
The dealer quoted me 195 dollars for flush. Should I be asking for a pan drop and drain or should I go for the flush? I'll have to count on a shop since I can't be in diy mode this period.
What is a reasonable labor+fluid quote?


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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 04:06 PM
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There's a wealth of info and opinions about how to maintain your transmission in the mechanical section of this forum, the first sticky. Drain and fill means drain out what's in the pan and refill to the correct level. The idea is dilute the dirty fluid with clean stuff as you're only changing about 1/3 of it. (others please correct if I'm wrong). If I was more industrious, I would drop the pan and clean it up as well as clean or replace the filter/screen/gasket at least once during the ownership of the vehicle at about 120000 km. I only did yearly drain and fills on my Camry, sold it at 275000 km, transmission worked perfectly. In your case, with such low mileage, perhaps one drain and fill now and then one every couple of years to keep the oil clean without too much expense. I don't think a flush is at all necessary or even beneficial. I don't know how much the dealer would charge you for a drain and fill, most of the labor is getting the plastic cover off and on, the rest is as hard as taking a bath and ~4 liters of fluid. I drilled a hole in my plastic cover under the plug to avoid wrestling with it. Now the oil comes out, some of it comes through the hole, the rest gathers in the cover and leaks out in multiple locations on the driveway.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 12:30 PM
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I've found when comparing the dashboard MPG with the old fashioned method of calculating mileage driven vs gallons consumed & did the math, the dashboard gauge is an approximate indication & not to the digit exact. I think it would be safe to say that a V6 will be thirstier. Even at 20 - 22 mpg, my 4 cyl is better in the gas mileage dept. than the Honda Pilot V6 it replaced, which was 14 - 16 mpg.

In terms of performance, I would concur with the other suggestions of test driving a V6 RAV4 & decide for yourself. I bought my 2010 two years ago with 33k on the clock, and found the 4 adequate for my needs, which includes highway & traffic driving. I plan to keep it until it is as close to 300k as possible
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Test drove the V6 recently
Now that's a fine ride!!
However, cannot justify the lost cash in this switch, and i also heard that maintenance will be more expensive.
My loyal four bangers (paid by blood and sweat) is adequate for my needs.
I am moving from Minnesota to the east coast and will drive there in June! Excited to do so as this will be the longest drive I ever do in my RAV4.
Let me know if you have any cool tips for such a drive! I'll be dropping the back seats and using all the storage area to move my essentials


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